How do you take off the sunroof of a 1986 944 porsche turbo?

Turn ignition on, make the sunroof go up and all the way down, turn off ignition and press the sunroof button to go down. Then unclip the 2 front hooks and push up.

944 Sunroof OperationThe sunroofs on 944s are raised and lowered by two lifting arms at the rear edge of the roof. On cars made after February 1986, the lifting arms are operated by plastic gears (one for each lifting arm mechanism). The plastic gears have a small set of teeth which operate the lifting arms. They also have a large set of teeth which are driven by a flexible cable. The cable is driven by the sunroof motor. For cars produced before February 1986, there is a transfer box between the two lifting arm mechanisms. The transfer box has a single gear which moves the lifting arms via two short lengths of drive cable. The guide tubes for the short sections of the flexible drive cable are routed such that the drive cables move the lifting arms directly. The sunroof drive motor assembly is located in the rear hatch area behind the vertical section of carpet on the driver's side of the car. On most cars the motor assembly will have a plastic cover over it which is held in place by six Phillips head screws.
All sunroofs installed since February 1986 have three limit switches at the motor assembly. Prior to that they had two. On the newer style sunroofs, two of the micro-switches are ganged together and are visible from the front of the assembly. These being out of adjustment are one of the more common problems associated with sunroofs. These style limit switches are fairly reliable. If there is a problem with them, it is more likely they are out of adjustment rather than actually failing. The other limit switch is on the back side of the motor assembly and can't be checked without removing the assembly. On the older style assemblies the two limit switches are located at the end of a rail attached to the back of the motor assembly.
The two limit switches ganged together will cause a number of problems if they fail or are not properly adjusted. They function together to stop the sunroof in the locked position. The limit switches are numbered with Roman Numerals. The top limit switch is number II and the bottom limit switch is number I. Limit switch III, which is on the back of the assembly near the bottom, stops the sunroof in the fully raised position. The older models do not have the third limit switch. They use a micro-switch between the sunroof visors to tell the system when the roof is in the fully raised position. When the new style sunroofs with the plastic gears were installed, the third limit switch was added to stop the sunroof in the fully raised position. A slip clutch on the cable drive motor stops the roof in the fully retracted position. However, the new style sunroof used a different style slip clutch than the old mechanisms. The micro-switch between the sun visors also performs another function on both models which will be discussed later.
If the sunroof fails electrically, the sunroof can be raised and lowered manually at the motor. There is a cone shaped dust cover over the adjusting nuts for the slip clutch. By using a socket and ratchet, the nut for the slip clutch can be turned to raise and lower the sunroof. On the earlier models the adjusting screw for the slip clutch must be removed to manually raise and lower the roof.
On the newer models, the end of the drive cable is attached to a white plastic cam that operates the three limit switches. Limit switches I and II stop the sunroof in the locked (closed) position. If the roof is in the fully raised position (ignition switch in Position 2), as it is lowered (using the down pushbutton), the cam rotates toward the I and II limit switches. The cam is notched such that limit switch I is made first. This stops the roof in the locked (closed) position. From here, with the ignition switch in Position 2, the roof can only be raised. However, if you take the ignition switch to Position 1 the lifting arms can be retracted to remove the sunroof. This is done by depressing the up arrow on the console switch. Yes, I did say the up arrow. The lifting arms move in opposite directions with the ignition switch in Position 1 than in Position 2. As soon as the arms start to retract to the disengaged or released position, limit switch II is made. Limit switch I and II are now both closed. This is what allows the arms to be moved from the retracted to the locked position with the ignition switch in Position 1. If both limit switches are not functioning properly (both closed), the sunroof can not be raised from the retracted position with the ignition switch in Position 1. However, you may be able to take the ignition switch to Position 2 and engage the sunroof using the up arrow on the console button. With the arms retracted and the ignition switch in Position 1, depressing the down arrow will cause the lifting arms to move toward the locked (closed) position. As the lifting arms are moved by the drive cable, the cam on the motor assembly rotates. When limit switch II is released by the cam, the lifting arms stop in the locked position. With the ignition switch in Position 2, depressing the up arrow on the console button will raise the roof until the cam on the motor assembly engages limit switch III to stop the roof in the fully raised position.
On the old style sunroofs the operation is essentially the same. On difference is that the ignition switch does not have the same number of positions. On these cars the "OFF" position is Position 1 and the "ON" is Position2. Also, there is no cam to operate the limit switches. They are operated by the drive cable as it extends into the track behind the motor.
The most common problem caused by the limit switches is limit switches I and/or II being out of adjustment. The limit switches can be moved forward and backward to adjust where the lifting arms stop in the locked position. Over a period of time the tabs that the limits switches are mounted to can bend so that the limit switches do not make good enough contact with the cam. As a result, one or both of the limit switches may not be closed when they are supposed to be. This can prevent the arms from stopping in the locked position. It can also prevent the arms from moving to the locked position with the ignition switch in Position 1.
Another very common problem is related to the plastic gears at the lifting arms. Sometimes these gears get stripped when the lifting arms are moved to the retracted position. I don't think anyone fully understands why the gears strip. I've heard fatigue due to age, uneven loading on the gears when the arms are fully retracted, and the torque on the slip clutch being too high. I personally believe any of these can cause the gears to strip. However, I think the major contributor is the torque on the slip clutch. When I install a new set of gears, I take extra time to ensure that the lifting arms are properly aligned, particularly in relation to each other. I also set the slip clutch torque slightly less than the factory limit. The factory setting is 6 Nm +/- 0.5. I usually set the torque around 5 Nm. This does not affect the ability of the mechanism to raise and lower the roof and provides some additional margin to protect the plastic gears in the lifting arm mechanisms.
There is one other micro-switch that is important to the operation of the sunroof. It is located underneath the triangle shaped cover between the visors. It tells the system if the sunroof is installed or removed. If the roof is installed, but the lifting arms are retracted for removal, the system will raise the lifting arms to the locked position when the car starts moving. Next to the plastic sunroof gears stripping, this is the single most common failure I've seen on 944 sunroofs. When the sunroof fails to move at all in either direction (i.e. the motor will not actuate), failure of this micro-switch is the most likely candidate. A blown sunroof motor fuse or a failed console switch can cause the same indications. There is a small plastic cover which is hinge mounted to the micro-switch mounting plate. The cover must be pried off very gently (the hinges are plastic also) to expose the Phillips head screws underneath. Once the Phillips head screws are removed the mounting plate can be dropped down and the micro-switch exposed. This switch is normally soldered in place. I've seen a number of owners remove this limit switch and jumper the wires