The interior temperature control does not work the air is hot all the time

SOURCE: im working on and 05 subaru legacy 2.5 turbo and

One of two things: 1)Heater core may be plugged - on most vehicles you can switch the heater hoses around to reverse the flow of water to try to remove the blockage. Yhis will be a temporary fix however because the foreign material will be in the coolant system and will eventually plug the core again. If you try this and it helps I would suggest flushing the coolant system to remove any loose material. 2)Failed water pump - Sometimes the impeller on the water pump gets corroded to the point where it will not move the coolant correctly. The solution for this is to change the pump. You can do some troubleshooting buy A)draining enough coolant from the system to drop the level below the upper of the two heater hoses B)remove the upper heater hose on the engine end and position the open end higher than the engine, allow coolant to drain to the point where it naturally stops C)Have a friend start the vehicle breifly and see if coolant flows from either the hose or the fittting it was connected to. If coolant flows from the hose, the core is not plugged. If coolant flows from the fitting, the water pump is working. If coolant doesn't flow at all, try switching the ends on the core if possible and repeat test. If the coolant still doesn't flow, you probably need a water pump.

SOURCE: 1998 subaru forester temperature gage goes up then

could be a sticky thermistat. they are cheap so i would change it anyway at least you will know it isnt that

SOURCE: Car: 1989 Subaru GL Wagon AWD

Violethaze, (someone used all of the purple haze?) You're real close. If the window operates from the main switch at the drivers seat then you probably have dirty contacts on the pass. switch.
If this is the case then take the panel off again, remove the switch from the panel and carefully remove the top from the electrical portion. Don't lose the spring! Remember - they put it together so it will come apart using the special tool #002 (Pocket screw driver). These are non-serviceable parts but I've cleaned lots of them. After you get the switch apart, you'll see the brass teeter-totter (TT) pieces with the contacts attached to them. Clean the TT contacts with an emery board and scratch the corrosion from the other contacts with your special tool. Lube it, snap it back together, plug it back into the wiring and test it before the final re-assembly.
Hope this helps