Can i remove lower ball joint on a 98 nissan sentra

There are thee ways to do this. The first, easiest, but least reliable way is to use split boot repair kit. This allows you to cut the old boot off, clean the joint as best you can, install new grease, and bolt the split boot into place and clamp it. These boots have a higher-than-average failure rate however. The next ways require jacking up the drivers side of the car, remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor. Then remove the hub nut that secures the half-shaft to the wheel bearing. Using a crowbar or other suitable tool, you must pry the inner CV joint out of the transaxle and maneuver the half-shaft out of the vehicle. You must take care not to separate the inner CV joint as it is easily damaged if overextended. You may have to separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm to remove this shaft as it is the shorter of the two and has less space to work for removal. Once you have the half-shaft out, there are two options - repair or replace. Repair requires removal of the joint from the half-shaft assembly, and it can be difficult for someone with no experience. The easier option is to replace the entire half-shaft with a re-manufactured one. The cost is not much more than that for the repair parts, plus you don't have to worry about dirt, grit and debris in the joint damaging it since it is already fully sealed. Replacement is the reverse of removal. You simply insert the shaft thru the wheel bearing opening and into the transaxle. You must "pop" the inner joint into place to latch it, otherwise it will cause damage by leaking and binding. You will feel it lock in when you do it. The last thing that is critical is that the hub nut has a specific torque requirement. Too much or too little torque will cause the wheel bearing to fail very quickly. So use a reliable torque wrench set at the correct setting. There is no "feel" for the correct tightness on this nut.

Could be your has been replaced before.I do a lot of different vehicles, so bear with me. All joints are basically pressed into the spindle with the nut. Hammer on the spindle at the ball joint to get them to release. Some joints are bolted on, some are riveted on (grind, heat and beat them out) to the lower control arm some are pressed in. If yours is bolted on the lower control arm, remove the bolts. Knock the ball joint out of the control, replace it. Consider yourself lucky.

now i know this sounds bad but first thing is to throw that away ,,, next open nut on balljoint and then take a hammer and if you are a fella with good aim ,, strike the little housing that the balljoint is stuck in ,,,, a experienced mechanic can do it in 2 to 3 srtikes so theres a challenge for you!!!! seriously if you can hit it hard and have good aim it will come apart easy ,,,, modern stuff is alloy but yours is steel so you can hit it hard and do no harm ,,, once you dont beat the hell out of any thing else ,,,

Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement Removal Procedure Tools Required J 43828 Ball Joint Separator

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
3. Remove the stabilizer shaft link. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement .
4. Remove the wiring harness from the lower control arm.




5. Remove the cotter pin (1) from the ball joint (3).
6. Remove the nut (4) from the ball joint (3).



Notice: Use only the recommended tools for separating the ball joint from the knuckle. Failure to use the recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.

7. Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle using the J 43828 .




8. Remove the lower control arm front (1) and rear (4) mounting bolts.
9. Remove the lower control arm (1) from the vehicle and place in a vice.
10. Drill out the 3 rivets (3) retaining the ball joint to the lower control arm (2).
Use a 3 mm (1/8 in) drill bit in order to make a pilot hole through the rivets.
Finish drilling the rivets with a 13 mm (½ in) drill bit.

11. Remove the ball joint (4) from the control arm (2).

Installation Procedure

1. Install the ball joint (4) into the control arm (2).
2. Install the 3 ball joint bolts (3) and the nuts (1). Follow the instructions in the ball joint kit. Tighten the ball joint bolts (3) according to the specifications in the instructions.




3. Install the lower control arm (2) to the front suspension support (1)
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.

4. Install the lower control arm front (5) and rear (4) mounting bolts.
Tighten • Tighten the front bolt to 107 N·m (79 lb ft). • Tighten the rear bolt to 110 N·m (81 lb ft).



5. Install the lower ball joint stud (3) to the steering knuckle (2).
6. Install the ball joint stud (3) through the steering knuckle (2).
7. Install the ball joint nut (4).
Tighten
Tighten the ball joint nut to 55 N·m (41 lb ft) plus 180 degree rotation minimum-65 N·m (50 lb ft) plus 180 degree rotation maximum to install the cotter pin.

8. Install the wiring harness to the lower control arm.
9. Install the cotter pin (1).
10. Install the stabilizer link to the lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement .
11. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
12. Inspect the front wheel alignment. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in Wheel Alignment.

Several possibilities.

If when slow and tight turns, then probably CV joints. About $100/axle, and if there is no visible tear in boots, might as well do both right and left.

If more at higher speed, and feel vibration in brake pedal, then more likely wheel bearing. Wheel bearings need press on front wheel drive, so about $200.

Last choice is ball joints, because hard to check. See if rubber boot is ripped. You can take pressure off and check for looseness, but not always reliable, and they often get tight before getting loose.
Ball joints will usually make vibration after road bump and may also make thump when braking. If McPherson struts, then only 1 on a side, about $75 each. If not ripped boot, I would do pair. If not strut suspension, then there are 2 per side.

assuming its a front one disconnect lower arm by undoing ball joint bolt remove brake caliper and disc disconnect hub from strut undo driveshaft nut and remove driveshaft u then split hub by pushing centre iut with a press,once split push bearing out with press then push new bearing in and refit everything the same way u removed it

Raise vehicle, remove wheel, remove brake caliper, remove brake rotor remove steering knuckle by disconnecting the tie rod, ball joint, and strut. press out hub, remove snap rings press out bearing. Reassemble in reverse order.

1. Loosen the wheel nuts and the center axle nut.
2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it.
3. Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
4. Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
5. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
6. Remove the brake disc.
7. Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
   1. Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
   2. Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
8. Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
9. Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
10. Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
11. Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
12. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
13. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
14. Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
15. Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
16. Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
17. Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
18. 1. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
    2. Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
    3. Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
    4. Remove the snapring.
    5. Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
    6. Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
    7. Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
    8. Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.
    
    To install:
    
    1. Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
    2. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
    3. Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
    4. Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
    5. Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    6. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
    7. Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
    8. Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
    9. Install a new snapring into the hub.
    10. Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    11. Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
    12. Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
    13. Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
    14. Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
    15. Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
    16. Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
    17. Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
    18. Install the brake disc.
    19. Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
    20. Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
    21. Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
    22. Lower the car to the ground.
    23. Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
    24. Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment

firstly remove the wheel trim and undoo the big nut on the end of the drive shaft,Then jack up and remove wheel and put stand under body remove the lower track control arm pinch bolt from lower suspension .remove brake caliper separate the lower arm from the bottom of the strut then push the drive shaft through the hub assembly and its clear .cut off old boot and look for the circlip that hold the end on which should be in the centre if the unit in a recess to allow access to the ends of the clip .You shouldnt need to remove the whole shaft just spread the clip and tap with a copper hammer.wash the thing out with diesel and take the balls out and give it a good clean ,rebuild and pack with grease slide the new rubber down the drive shaft ,refit the end but dot hit the threasded bit with a hammer put a block of wood their first then tap it on.Refit the suspension and away you go

1. Remove the steering knuckle with wheel hub and bearing attached.
2. Remove the lower ball joint flange with a chisel.
3. Install J9519-E and J34874 to the lower ball joint.
4. Remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm using J9519-E and J34874

1. Install the lower ball joint and J9519-E, J41435, and J45105-2 to the lower control arm.
2. Install the lower ball joint to the lower control arm using J9519-E, J41435, and J45105-2.
3. Remove J9519-E, J41435, and J45105-2 from the lower control arm
1. Install J9519-E and J45105-1 to the lower ball joint.
2. Flare the lower ball joint flange using J9519-E and J45105-1.
3. Remove J9519-E and J45105-1 from the lower ball joint.
4. Install the steering knuckle with wheel hub and bearing attached. Install the tire and wheel.
1. Lower the vehicle.
2. Check the front wheel alignment.

these jouints are pressed in and there is a flange that is flared this is what the tool numbers refer too.