Just those?
0155 (bank 2, sensor 1) (cylinder 2 side, front sensor)
and means. dead 02 sensor heater or wires to it melted or bad. (look at it see that?) the PCM measures heater current near 1 amp.
if 0 amps. the heater is blown out or wires fell off it, period.
(it means nothing else but THAT)
seen here, photo of B2S1.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/amedee/2010-06-12_022755_1.jpg
P0300s.
300 is misfire,(spark, fueling or compression low) (vast causes)
but 300 is random-all, so means all cylinders. the the implications of bad fueling for that. (spark not bad on all 6 , and engine not bad on all 6 , (assumes cam timing is good, is it?)
401 , EGR failure. the most common of all DTCs.
due to carbon blockage.
p0401 egr system insufficient flow detected.
if the EGR sticks open the misfiring will happen.
on some engines, the 401 test will fail due to the tests uses
vacuum reading( there are lots of ways for all cars to do 401 monitors)
my poor fsm misses this point in fact. sadly
but if uses vacuum then any weak or bouncing vacuum in the plenum can cause false 401s.
that is why we do all the basic tests first.
this 3.2L (usa) has an EGR read back signal from EGR main
its just a linear resistor. pot.
it tells ecu that the Valve opened and how far, and has its own P04xx code, so since it didnt throw this, then the valve is open.
and that means the exhaust path is blocked or is a red herring.
this 3.2L has 2 air sensors.
MAP and MAF
the air meter is to run engine. MAF (air = fuel = runs right)
Map, my guess is this sensor only is used for EGR testing.
(common on may cars)
so if vacuum is off, (or bouncing) the map will read wrong
and 401 can be false warning) this is very common.
so i clean the EGR main, get it 100% closed
then defeat it (unplug it)
and ignore P04xx errors. and see if engine misfires. P0300s
if no misfiring now, we know engine and fueling is ok.
ok now we do basics
is compression good on all 6 cylinders over 150PSI W.O.T?
is engine reaching 180F + and holding hot (scan it)
is vacuum steady near 19" vacuum running hot, at 800 rpm?
parked , in neutral or park, not driving.
is it, if not vacuum bounce is very bad.
i check spark timing with my gun(timing light gun)
if way off, the cam drive slipped. the 3.2L engine has a cam timing belt if not replace per service list will slip and go retarded.
and compresson falls, and engine misfires badly.
the timing is tricky because there are 2 engine heads used.
warning ,do not use the wrong instructions on this belt.
if you ignore this cam belt and it slips you wreck the head valves.
you bend them.
FSM waring verbatim.
"Align the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets with their alignment marks before removing the timing belt. Failure to align the belt and sprocket marks may result in valve damage."
that is MY OPINION, but if i was there, touching car, I would probably not done any of that , if i heard engine noises.
the spark test and vacuum test is 5min work and speak Volume's
as are live data streaming of sensor , with scan tool.
and more... but I stop here,
got tools?
I've got some, but not a lot. Your basic tools. Screwdrivers, wrench, ratchet set pliers stuff like that.
i mean real tools (wreches and all that is base line ) like , scantool, timing light, pressure gauge for fuel and compresion and vacuum and a timing light, those are the main car tools, for diagnosing all problems. costs about $100 , when i was young, it was $1000 , 10 times less now. take the $10 dmm meter, in 1970 was $100 annd a timing light $300 not $20 like now , this is the good times,
humans can to see pressure or voltage nor look at crank and see oh my its timed wrong, we use simple tools to do that, and costs around 1 hour shop labor. and makes the free, see? and you use them once, they are INVESTMENT grade, ! profit. see? and if you sold them , more profit. later. labor costs are high today, do DIY , you save a fortune.
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Symptoms
Common Problems That Trigger the P0135 and P0155 Code
p0300 random misfire- http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300 check ignition and fuel pressure...
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from Asecmt
Po401 is from clogged passages for the egr system. the port pipe from EGR to intake manifold is more than likely clogged. You have to remove the throttle body to do. this to clean you remove the throttle body and you will see a tube a couple of inches in the plenum and it will probably be plugged solid so just get a pick or screw driver and start picking. good idea to take the valve off so you can blow through the passage to make sure all is clean
From Jamhtx:
I took off egr valve, then Once the throttle body was out of way, there was only one port pipe inside intake manifold. It was plugged solid with a hard mudd like feel to it. Several hours picking at it using carb cleaner and long screwdriver, then finally it was cleared. It would of saved time if I had air hose to blow through port once it got looser (but now I know for next time). Went for a short drive, then FINALLY the check engine light went off. Next morning got my emission inspection...passed!
I hope this helps!
nailed it.
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Po401 EGR,PO300 COULD BE PLUGS,WIRES,COILS AND MORE.
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