Can't operate electric window on driver's side door

The following components are used to control the power windows:
• Driver door module (DDM)
• Passenger front door module (PDM)
• LH rear door module (LRDM)
• RH rear door module (RRDM)
• Driver door switch assembly (DDSA)
• RH front power window switch
• LH rear power window switch
• RH rear power window switch
• LH front power window motor
• RH front power window motor
• LH rear power window motor
• RH rear power window motor
• Class 2 serial data link
• DR MOD PWR C/B 30 Amp circuit breaker
• DRIVER DR MOD 10 Amp fuse -- DDSA and DDM logic, DDM internal driver operation.
• PSGR DR MOD 10 Amp fuse -- PDM logic and internal driver operation.
• REAR DR MOD 15 Amp fuse -- LRDM and RRDM logic and internal driver operation

I could see one window not working from a broken wire inside the door flex , but not both back windows . Back windows are controlled by LF door module . Both back windows have different grounds - LR G200 an RR G201 . Also both rear window switches have different power supply's .RR switch fuse # 18 30 amp . LR is fuse b# 9 40 amp . Both window motors or switche's going out at same time ???? wouldn't think so .

• Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
• Loose, corroded connectors.
• Damaged window regulator control switch.
• Damaged window regulator electric drive.
• Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
• Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
• Glass, Frames and Mechanisms
  
  Inspection and Verification
  
  1. Verify the customer's concern by operating the power windows/heated back window to duplicate the condition.
  1. Inspect to determine if one of the following mechanical or electrical concerns apply:
     
     
     VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Electrical
     • Front door power window regulator damaged.
     • Front window run damaged.
     • Front door window glass out of window run.
     • Front door window glass broken.
     • Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
     • Loose, corroded connectors.
     • Damaged window regulator control switch.
     • Damaged window regulator electric drive.
     • Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
     • Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
     • Scratched grid.
  1. If inspection reveals an obvious concern that is readily serviced, correct the concern before continuing with Inspection and Verification.
  1. If the concern remains after inspection, connect the Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent to the data link connector (DLC) located beneath the instrument panel to perform DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test. If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the driver door module, go to Pinpoint Test A . If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the lighting control module, go to Pinpoint Test B . If the DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test is passed for the drivers door module and lighting control module, retrieve continuous DTCs and execute Self Test Diagnostics for the driver door module and lighting control module to retrieve current DTCs.
  1. If self test is passed and no DTCs are retrieved, go to the Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics.
  1. If DTCs are retrieved, go to the Driver Door Module (DDM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index or Lighting Control Module (LCM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index to continue diagnostics.
  1. If the driver door module cannot be accessed by the NGS, GO to Pinpoint Test A . If the lighting control module cannot be accessed by the NGS, go to Pinpoint Test B .
  Rotunda Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS®) 001-00001 may also be used to diagnose this system.
  
  • Power Windows Completely Inoperative
  • Supply open or shorted.
  • Ground open.
  • Window regulator control switch inoperative.
  • Circuits open or shorted.
  • Window regulator electric drive inoperative.
  • Driver door module.
  • PERFORM driver door module self test. Service DTCs. If no DTCs are retrieved, GO to Pinpoint Test C .
  • Single Power Window Inoperative
  • Window regulator electric drive circuits.
  • Window regulator electric drive.
  • Window regulator control switch circuits.
  • Window regulator control switch.
  • Driver door module.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test D .

THE CHILD LOCK MAY BE ENGAGED IT IS BESIDE THE DRIVERS WINDOW SWITCH. OPEN THE DOOR ON DRIVERS SIDE. TURN ON THE KEY. ENGAGE THE WINDOW SWITCH IN THE DESIRED DIRECTION WHILE BANGING ON THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR ENOUGH TO JAR THE MOTOR

Window regulator is bad in the drivers door . Do you know what a regulator is ? The Trainer 24 Power Window Troubleshooting Do you know anything about automotive electrical testing ? How to read an use a wiring diagram ? Do you know there are two side to a electrical circuit ? B+ voltage an a ground side . Plus there is electronic control modules and class 2 serial data network involved . When you push the switch for a window othen then drivers window on the drivers door . a class 2 message is sent to the other doors modules . The correct module will then open it's window .
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Check out free wiring diagram here .Enter vehicle info . year , make , model and engine size. Under system click on body & accessories , subsystem click power windows . Click search button , then click each link one at a time .

With the list you have, I would think broken ground wire in the rubber boot from the A-pillar to the door on the driver's side.
I have seen this one a few times ( not chronic but happens ).

It is a black wire in the door to a-pillar harness. SWAG at why the window worked when open part way, the wire touched at that one time, and pulled back apart again.

Example picture of a broken wire

CHECK FUSES FOR POWER WINDOW,CHECK FUSE FOR POWER MIRROR AND CHECK FUSE FOR POWER DOOR LOCK.IF FUSE OKAY DOOR CONTROL MODULE FAULTY ITSELF.

Switching Fuses proved nothing

Don't have a volt meter ?

Did you check out any of the window switches ?

If not the switch, then door panel comes off & you
test the motor

Check for blown fuses first. In a Chrysler they are mini fuses, and they are clearly marked on the driver's side access panel at the end of the dash board when you open the driver's side door. It is a "D" shaped panel that pops right off. The layout is inside of that panel. Also, a relay might govern the windows proper, since they generate alot of ohms when operating. That is a mechanic's job at that point, but try the fuses first.

You have two separate (and unrelated) electrical issues.
(1) windows - probably the fuse is blown - replace. If it keeps blowing fuses, then you have a
short somewhere in the wiring to the window operator motors or the switch to raise/lower
the windows (any soda/latte been spilled on one of the switches lately?, or perhaps a window
left open overnight in a rainstorm?).

(2) interior light staying on - almost always a stuck/corroded/worn door switch - play with all
four & you'll find which one has gone marginal (97% of the time its drivers door switch,
since the driver's door gets more usage than all the other doors put together).

look for power windows relay.