There are much better, safer ways to test the alternator. You should never remove the battery when engine is running or when the key is in on. That old style method was before engine computers. It causes voltage spikes which can fry delicate electrical components, the computer and its many low voltage circuits, and the alternator as well.
Use a voltmeter (costs like $20), and check battery voltage-a good battery should read at least 12.5 volts. Then check battery with engine running. A good alternator should show 13.5 volts at the battery. Then you know the alternator is working. If battery is still same as when not running, the charging system is not working.
It is just possible that you have a bad alternator. Take it off and have it tested at a parts store for free.
I had alternator tested and bought new one but still doin the same so I got my old alternator back put it on because it was good I just dont get how it was not chargin and started to charge then I jump started a truck and quit charging thank u so much for the information i need it as much as I can get
Give me a call. 1-304-538-4005
Don't think I could help over the phone, brad. I'm just a retired old hound who worked on cars darn near forever it seems as a tinkerer. you need to check the charging system maybe from a good wire diagram. on newer systems the pcm supplies the excitation current to the alternator for it to have an output. From jumping another and losing output, there may also be a fusible link that got burned...wish i had that wiring diagram. sorry, but I don't.
Join a dodge ram forum. You can probably find a dodge mechanic on there, one or many who really know the truck.
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SOURCE: I have a 91 crx
your problem is on the generator,if the chargig fuse os ok.(usually a very big fuse) altanator could be new and bad. try another one.,.the charging relae is usualy on the altanator.
SOURCE: Battery dosn't charge, alternator/voltage adapter test's good.
Did you test the Alternator on or off the truck? It might be a problem with the control system to the Alternator. The regulator need a battery feed to work, It is usually ran through an alternator fuse.
SOURCE: 86 Tercel 2wd wagon won't charge it's battery
clean battery terminals ,bring battery to be tested after charging, after reinstalling battery run car and test alternator output it should be a minimum of 13-14volts if it is under 13 replace alternator , use a voltmeter set on 12 volt 10 amp dc to check the wire to check is located on the back of the alternator covered with a rubber grommet of course hold negative wirw on volt meter to ground and touch red wire to big terminal on back of alternator while car is running should have 14 volts or at least 13 volts
SOURCE: Got a 2000 Cougar that has a charging problem, new
THE SAME THING HAPPENED TO MINE. AFTER $400 I REALIZED IT WAS THE FUSE WHICH IS CONNECTED TO THE ALTERNATOR. IT WAS BROKEN AND WOULD COME LOOSE AT ANY SLIGHT BUMP, THEN IMMEDIATELY KILL THE BATTERY. FIRST THE RADIO WENT OUT THEN THE DASH LIGHTS. ANYWAY I GOT A NEW ONE FOR $40 AND PROBLEM SOLVED. =]
SOURCE: 89 ford f150 alternator not charging constantly
i could possibably be the internal voltage regulator in the alternator at one time you could buy just the part and replace it dont know if thats possible any more
I had my
ford 91 ranger checked and both were good, plus alternator was in the green? But
kept killing batteries and would not start without a jump. I replaced solenoid,
starter, and battery. Finally removed the alternator and the BRUSHES were
making contact just enough to keep my truck running, but when lights or any
other accessory was used the truck would quit. New alternator and starts every
time and can run all accessories without problem. Check the brushes on the
alternator.
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