Had it checked by 2 different mechanics.. not mounts, timing belt, plugs, etc. was thinking maybe Idle Control Valve?
I agree about fault codes showing up and which will be generated by some testing. The idle control should not affect operation much beyond the low end range. If your engine has manifold runners, I would look at them. The manifold runners maximize engine performance by changing internal air intake flow by switching the chambers in the intake manifold.
Some runner controls are done with vacuum and some are electrical. There are also connecting parts on the actuators which may break off their plastic clips.
Sure to generate a trouble code, you could temporarily plug the EGR vacuum hose and drive around the block and see if there is a difference. Also take a Vacuum gauge which is "old tech" and see what the vacuum readings are.
Check power steering fluid levels, water levels, trans fluid levels as you may have more than 1 problem causing the noise. Think about what works differently at various RPMS.
You can go to "aboutautomobile.com" which has TSB's and customer complaints. You may get free repair if there is a recall about your problem. Hope this helps.
If that is the case it will show up on a fault reading (which should have been done by the mechanics)
SOURCE: 2002 Escape
no...the valve can be replaced without any "computer change"...the PCM constantly monitors variations in sensor signal strength and accommodates changes to compensate for this. A new valve will not "un-calibrate" the PCM. The PCM will merely begin a new "data record" for it....with possible slow results at first lasting from as short as one minute to possibly nearly a week of driving.
SOURCE: low idling on daihatsu charade 83 model
My first thouhts are your ignition is still your problem, but upu haven't made it clear if the problem exists only when the engine is cold.
On the Charde you must push the pedal down before pulling the choke lever for the choke and fast idle linkages to engage... then start the engine.
The idle circuit consists of an emulsion tube and a solenoid. The solenoid is on the back of the carby and has a green wire running to it. If there isn't 12 volts on this at startup you wont be able to get the engine to idle without pedal assistance.
The carburettor also has an acceleration plunger that squirts a shot of fuel into the engine when trying to increase speed. This has a concetrina boot that can leak. It is situated on to op the carby.
The vacuum hoses need to connected correctly, especially one of the distributor hoses. That one must be connected to AD port on the carby. The following diagram is one of my modified layouts, but should work satifactorily. It is configured so that you can set the ignition timing a little more advanced than factory. When you set the timing make sure both hoses to the dizzy are removed and blocked. You adjust the dizzy position until the dimple on the flywheel lines up with the notch in the timing plate above.
Diagram here
For a test try blocking the hose coming from the oil cap to the bottom of the carby. The cap is also a PCV valve and if it's not clean it can allow excess air into the engine at idle.
My feeling is your points gap is not correct. It should be about the thickness of a hacksaw blade when open. The rubbing block on the points is notorious for rapid wear if hi temp grease hasn't been applied to the rotor lobes. A small gap will cause arcing under load and not provided sufficient dwell time for the coil to charge, resulting in a weak spark, missing, over fueling and lack of acceleration.
I also recommend you replace the plugs with Bosch Super 4's. They will last you a very long time and tend to be very forgiving with older worn engines.
SOURCE: ENGINE VIBRATION AT IDLE BUT OK WHILE DRIVING.
Could be any one, or more, of the following -
Plugged injector
Bad plug wire
Fouled plug
Crossed plug wires (hard to tell sometimes on V-8s that run smooth anyway)
Vacuum leak
Leaky EGR valve
Shifted timing sensor
Scan engine for codes and proceed from there.
There is a product called RXP (available here in Texas) that will clean up an engine and gas. Its pretty awesome stuff, and this coming from a person who doesn't really believe in additives.
SOURCE: 2006 Dodge Gr. Caravan. Loud humming noise upon
Misalignment of the belt, incorrect belt, worn or loose tensioner, Too tight of an adjustment (many service centers do this on purpose so when the belt breaks in it becomes properly adjusted, I do not believe in this philosophy), The belt is actually one long belt called a serpentine belt.....
SOURCE: 2006 ford fusion 34000 miles. Has loud
hi iv had a simular noise on a fusion i done and it was the water pump bearings making the noise the only way to solve this is to replace the pump ,
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not muffler. Not as loud outside the car as inside.
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