2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Logo
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Roy johnson Posted on Jan 19, 2015
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2003 ford sport trac front grinding noise from drivers side when sharp left turn

Sounds like maybe spider gears trying to engage but just slips atleast thats what it sounds like to me!!! It just started this when I turn sharp left & only drivers side & left turning so far!I had just ran it hard in 4 high up a steep iced over black top drive way a day or to before this first started!! I don't know enough about the 4x4 front end stuff to know whats going on!!

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tad b

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  • Posted on Jan 19, 2015
tad b
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Need a bit more info. Is it doing when in 4 wd only or all the time when turning, If its just a grinding when turning maybe you will luck out and it be just a wheel bearing if its only making noise when turning to left. If its just in 4wd is your 4wd working when you put it in? describe the sound or vibration feeling in more detail, can you feal it or hear it, I am not sure how to diagnose with only the info you gave, but here is some noise descriptions. A clunk, whine, or howl can signal a worn-out pinion gear, bad bearings, or a faulty gear installation. Sometimes, the noise is not differential-related, but is caused by other driveline or axle components. This guide will help you match up the noise you're hearing with the differential or axle component making it, or at least get you in the ballpark.
Noise: Howl while decelerating (gears previously quiet)Cause: Loose pinion bearing preload
Noise: Howl with whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet)Cause: Worn rear pinion bearing or worn gear set
Noise: Howl without whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet)Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading
Noise: Howling while accelerating over a small speed range (gears previously quiet)Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading
Noise: Howling after gear set installationCause: Faulty gears or improper installation
Noise: Low-pitch rumble at all speeds over 20 miles per hourCause: Worn carrier bearings
Noise: Whirring during acceleration/deceleration at about 10 miles per hourCause: Worn pinion bearings
Noise: Banging or clunking while making a turn, backing up, or rapid deceleration (like on a freeway off-ramp). Noise gets worse in warmer weather
Cause: Posi chatter due to improper lubrication; worn clutches or spider gears; improper assembly
Noise: Banging, crunching, or popping while making a turn. Noise not affected by temperatureCause: Badly worn or broken spider gears
Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every 2-3 feet during acceleration and decelerationCause: Damaged or broken pinion gear tooth or teeth
Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every 2-3 feet during acceleration or deceleration, but not bothCause: High spot or heavy chip on pinion gear tooth
Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every 8 feet during acceleration and decelerationCause: Damaged or broken ring gear tooth or teeth
Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every 8 feet during acceleration or deceleration, but not bothCause: High spot or heavy chip on ring gear tooth
Noise: Clicking while decelerating from 20 miles per hour to a complete stop Cause:Worn carrier case-side gear bores
Noise: Rumble or clicking that gets worse during hard turnsCause: Bad wheel bearings
Noise: Driveline squeaking or grinding at any speedCause: Worn or damaged U-joints
Noise:Clunking when depressing the throttle pedal (takeoff)Cause: Worn U-joints; worn spider gears; worn axle splines; excessive gear backlash; loose yoke splines; worn slip yoke splines
Noise: Clunk immediately after taking off from a stopCause: Worn slip yoke splines
Noise: Steady vibration that increases with speedCause: Worn U-joint or out-of-balance driveshaft
Noise: Cyclic vibration that varies in intensity. Intensity increases at a specific speed range, worsens during decelerationCause: Pinion angle too low (not parallel with front yoke on driveshaft)

Testimonial: "Thank you tad b!!I havent drove it but a little since I first herd the noise. I will be going out to test a few different steps that will help me to answer your questions in determining what it is or isn't doing! It has only did it twice so far & while it was in 2 wheel drive & from a complete stop,I accelerated kind of hard & while turning to the left I didn't feel any thing that I recall it was all sound that reminded me of a grinding like noise or slipping noise that I would guess to be comparable to the sound of gears trying to lock together to each but doesn't make the full connection just slips!Oh when I herd the noise I immediately let off the gas & stopped turning the steering wheel,And the noise stopped.Ill put it in 4x4 to test & get the tire off the ground & test in a little bit & get back to ya with the results!!! And thanks for your help & each moment of your time that is spent on my problem is greatly appreciated!!!"

Arnie Burke

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  • Ford Master 7,339 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 19, 2015
Arnie Burke
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Go to the magicmechanic website and send him this--hes the best there is and will rply

Testimonial: "Thank you Arnie Burke I will check out the website you suggested."

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Grinding in 4x4

Sounds like you broke an axle off. May have broken a spider gear inside the front differential. Hopefully you weren't using this in 4 wheel drive on dry pavement, and making a sharp turn, which could easily snap an axle or break a spider gear or break teeth off of the spider gear inside of the front axle case. Good luck.
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Jeep grand cherokee quadra drive

Differentials.

The Jeep Quadra Drive systems have a limited slip differential in the transfer case as well as the front and rear axles - which allows you to run all wheel drive on all surfaces. This matters because without limited slip capability your transfer case & axles would break.

Have your transfer case and axles serviced by a dealer, really a real dealer for Chrysler Jeep. These diffs and transfer cases can use unique gear oils that you don\'t want to mix up with regular gear oil.

That howling, clunking, grinding noise is your dog-clutches slipping (as designed) as you go around the corner.



Additional Details below:

So what\'s the Diff?



All differentials are is a way to allow for different wheels to travel different distances on the same vehicle. What-he-say? Yep, when we turn a corner all 4 wheels go a different distance around that corner... oh yeah well everybody knows that. Think about it, your making that hard left turn at your favorite Fast-Food joint; your left front wheel is 2 feet away from the curb, but the back left wheel rubs the curb... why?

As you make that 90 degree turn, your left back wheel travels 4 feet, your left front wheel travels 6 feet, your right rear wheel travels 7 feet, and your right front wheel travels 8 feet.



Ok you say, what\'s the big deal? A couple feet slip here a couple of feet slip there... Well remember your sticky rubber tires on dry asphalt don\'t really give very much and u-joints, axles shafts, and even pinion and ring gear damage can occur. Fortunately for us, Leonardo DaVinci (yeah really) saw this problem coming and designed the Open Differential. There are mini-gears inside your open differential that allow for that slippage, these mini-gears are called spider gears. Problem is when your in snow, ice, mud the spider gears of the open diff allow all your power to go to the wheel with the least traction (and your stuck).

Ok let\'s put another powered axle up front and call it 4x4. Umm no.

A normal 4x4 is not really true four wheel drive. At best it\'s the worst 2 wheels you\'ve got - driving you forward. Until both wheels on the same side are in a ditch, and your stuck.



Well what the heck Leonardo? I want something better than stuck!



The old-time dragster dudes of the 50\'s & 60\'s agreed with you and they welded those little spider gears together for true positraction across both wheels. Ever been close to a big monster truck in a parking lot and heard its tires chirping around the corner? Or an old Jeep crow-hopping it\'s way around a corner - Letting out little tire noises (like "erp" "erp" "erp")?

That\'s because these 4x4\'s have been modified to not have any differential action. None. This is great in a 1/4 mile dragster race or a mountain climbing rally car. A locked front differential can (and most likely will) cause you to crash... not good for daily drivers.



You\'re in luck, the Limited Slip Differential (LSD) has clutches instead of spider gears, which engage as wheel slippage increases. Subaru and Audi are 2 companies that really brought this to market with All Wheel Drive decades ago. Jeep and other SUV/Pickup manufacturers have utilized clutch-based LSD\'s as well. Clutch-based LSD\'s however, have a limited lifespan and can require special gear oils. When Clutch-based LSD\'s fail, they basically become an Open Diff.



Automatic locking differentials were brought to market in the 70\'s & 80\'s by companies like Detroit Locker, and these engage a fully locked set of gears as soon as any slippage occurs. Problem is it can become very difficult to steer, at all. Forget about U-turns, just go around the block. And while your at it, stop and pick up another set of tires because it will feel like you are dragging your outside tires around every corner.



Jeep and Daimler-Chrysler developed another type of LSD that utilizes a small hydraulic pump to engage a set of clutches and gears, which lasts much longer than traditional LSD\'s. It was called a Gerodisc differential, and it worked fairly well. Not as much traction as a full locker, but good LSD performance. The problem was the Gerodisc couldn\'t control itself in the car-washes, and would build-up pressure as the tires slipped over the soapy rollers, and launch the Grand Cherokee across the car wash. Yeah, it was freaky. So freaky that the National Car Wash Association of America (yeah they have an association, who knew?) prohibited all Grand Cherokees. Look it up.



The King Daddy of differentials is the selectable locker. These little gems are very expensive, but you get all the benefits of both the open diff for maneuvering, and lockers for traction only when needed.



So that noise, while it may not spell imminent doom, surely ain\'t good.
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I really doubt that its the spider gears that are bad. Most likely that its the axle shaft- not as bad as it sounds- I sell lots of them.
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