Check the coolant in the radiator before you start it when it is cold. It should be completely full if not There is air trapped. fill it with fluid. Check the coolant overflow reservoir. It should be near the cold level, if not fill it to the cold level. If it is the 3.8 engine they are bad about trapping air in the cooling system in engine. Try turning the heater selector all the way to highest temp and drive it on highway until it is fully hot to attempt to purge the air bubble from engine. It is normal for the temp to drop a little when the car is idling at a stop in very cold weather because of the heater load on keeping you warm (the heater core is like a little radiator). also when you are coasting downhill.
It's a 3.0, I will try what you suggest.
I took off the radiator cap this morning the fluid was up to the hole that goes to the overflow tank. The cooland was at the cold level in the overflow tank. I have it running now to see if the coolant goes up to the hot level in the tank, next I will try what you suggested about going on the highway.
Hi, I did what you suggested today. Went on the highway doing 65/75 mph, drove 15 miles one way with the heater blasting turned around and drove back with the heater off. The temperature gauge stayed at a steady level both ways. When I got off the hight driving home through streets with lights (about 1&1/2 miles) the gauge stayed steady did not drop when stopped like it was. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this worked. If it didn't you'll see me on again. Thanks so much. :)
My spelling meant to write when I got off the highway driving home
Sounds like you have gotten it burped! Now your will have to recheck the coolant level in the radiator before you start it, and check the collant level in the coolant expansion tank to replace the ir that was trapped in the cooling system because the engine will draw coolant out of the resevoir as it cools down to replace the air that had been trapped in th system..
I've checked the coolant when the engine is both hot and cold and has been right on the the lines each time.ne each
That was after I ran it on the highway but I didn't check the radiator cap and I already started it today just to run it because it's been so cold. I will do that tomorrow
You would happen to live in Long Isalnd NY would you?
I can't seem to find a mechanic that won't rip me off because they think I don't know what I'm talking about.....you know it's that being a woman thing
YOu might try asking in your network of friends if anyone knows a gearhead, or an old farm guy. Ask them for a recommendation for an independant auto repair shop that is owned by a man of character that respects the customers.
How is the car doing? Is it holding temp and heater function normally now?
Hi, the heater is working fine.Before starting the car I check the overflow tank and it's on the cold line. After driving the I check the overflow tank again it's on the hot line just as it should be. I feel the radiator cap and it's hot like it should be. I did notice yesterday before I started the car the temp gauge was above cold and then I started it and the gauge went down to cold. As I'm driving it goes up and down (not always) but hasn't gone above the mid point. Maybe I shouldn't say that because then I will start to happen with my luck. I'm beginning to wonder if it might be the gauge or an electrical problem. I don't know anyone out here except for my brother and the only mechanic he had retired. I do know the original mechanic from the dealership(which has closed) I worked at and bought the car but he works for NYC Sanitation now and moved away from where he used to live. I have spoken to him and he could look at it because he has worked on it at his mothers house but it's to cold right now for him to be working outside. So right now I'm at a loss and all I can do is hope it holds up until the spring. I want to thank you for all of your help, if you can think of anything else please let me know. Thanks again.
×
It has a air bleeder on it sounds like it has air in the system you feel the system threw the overflow tank with it not running open the bleeder feel till coolant comes out and close back off
Testimonial: "I know the overflow tank and the coolant is right on the hot and cold lines. Could you tell me please where is this bleeder?"
"I know the overflow tank and the coolant is right on the hot and cold lines. Could you tell me please where is this bleeder?"
I haven't read all of the post what size motor do u have
3.0
Be glad you have the 3.0 instead of the 3.8. The 3.0 is far less trouble.
I know when I was ordering the car all the mechanics at work told me not to get the 3.8 I'd be asking for trouble. So where is this air bleeder? I like to try that.
×
Just make sure you have the correct amount of antifreeze in the reservoir when hot or cold. Low antifreeze or a malfunctioning thermostat could cause this.
Way to be observant of your car's gauges! Is the coolant level OK? When was the water pump last changed? Does the output of the heater coincide with the indications on the gauge? The non-contact thermometers can also provide useful info when troubleshooting cooling system performance. Is there anything blocking the radiator? If you have more info, add to the original postive via the comment box.
Testimonial: "Nothing is blocking the radiator, the water pump was changed nov 2013. The first time I noticed this the heater wasn't working correctly but now it is fine. What is a non-contact thermometer>"
You are certainly getting lots of advice! I like the idea of air in the system but your assurance that the levels are good reduces that liklihood. THe good news is it isn't overheating so keep an eye on the performance and the levels. A non contact thermometer is the temperature sensors you can just point like a gun and get a reading. They can be useful in identifying hot and cold areas.
"Nothing is blocking the radiator, the water pump was changed nov 2013. The first time I noticed this the heater wasn't working correctly but now it is fine. What is a non-contact thermometer>"
Thanks for the helpful vote. Keep an eye on things and come back if there are new developments. I didn't see if anyone ever identified the location of the bleed point for the coolant system.
Hi, the heater is working fine.Before starting the car I check the overflow tank and it's on the cold line. After driving the I check the overflow tank again it's on the hot line just as it should be. I feel the radiator cap and it's hot like it should be. I did notice yesterday before I started the car the temp gauge was above cold and then I started it and the gauge went down to cold. As I'm driving it goes up and down (not always) but hasn't gone above the mid point. Maybe I shouldn't say that because then I will start to happen with my luck. I'm beginning to wonder if it might be the gauge or an electrical problem. I don't know anyone out here except for my brother and the only mechanic he had retired. I do know the original mechanic from the dealership(which has closed) I worked at and bought the car but he works for NYC Sanitation now and moved away from where he used to live. I have spoken to him and he could look at it because he has worked on it at his mothers house but it's to cold right now for him to be working outside. So right now I'm at a loss and all I can do is hope it holds up until the spring.
×
It sounds to me like you may have something that is blocking the system. What happens is that hen you first start driving the water is circulating though the system but it is partially blocked by an object. When you stop at a light the pressure is reduced, allowing the object to drop out of the way and allow more cooling fluid to circulate. that causes the system to work more efficiently. When you start up again, the pressure increases and the object is sucked back into position blocking the cooling fluid flow. I recommend that you have your entire cooling system flushed...not just the radiator. Hopefully the object will be small enough to flush out of the larger openings where the radiator hoses attach.
Good luck!
Testimonial: "the cooling system was flushed in July 2013 well it was supposed to have been at least that's what the bill says. The thermostat and the water pump were also changed."
The replacement thermostat may not be the same as the original. Just check the anti-freeze level and as long as the temp stays OK you should stay OK.
The radiator fan will be running at a stop light if the defroster is on. That may be why the temp drops.
Other than that when the car is cold as in sitting all night, open the radiator up and the coolant should be clear to the top. If not it has air in the system and will give erratic readings.
Testimonial: "I'll check that tomorrow morning thanks"
If it is low the first thing I would do after filling it is to get a new radiator cap. If it is the orignal it is probaly shot and not regulating the pressure. Never open the radiator when the engine is hot.
"I'll check that tomorrow morning thanks"
Must say I do at least know not to open the radiator when hot but thanks for the advice I know so many people who have made that mistake. Oh how I wish I still had my 71' beetle no radiator.71 Beetla
How can you tell if the radiator cap is no good, what should I look for? I looked at it this morning and it looks fine to me.
×
It is a Ford. Thank God your water pump has lasted this long. Replace it. Your problem points to not enough circulation.. The pump.
Testimonial: "The water pump has been replaced Nov 13' also flushed and thermostat. It's been working fine up until now, 3.0 engine"
Probably the electric fan coming on later than normal due to cold or faulty temp sensor
Thermostat in cooling system is getting stuck or sticking so the cooling systems not getting the correct flow.
211 views
Usually answered in minutes!
The only real way to check the radiator cap is to tatake it to Autozone or some other store where they will test it. It's just as easy to just buy a new one.
×