Drive car for about 10 mile car shuts down

You need an auto electrician with a $5,000 scan tool computer to record live data when that happens. It beats swapping out parts that are fine.

If a vehicle shuts off while driving down the road. then restarts after about 10 minutes, its a bad crank sensor or the wiring to the sensor. A check engine light may not turn on. If the light is on. You can take it to any auto parts store to have the code read by a scanner for free. Auto-zone, Advanced ETC. Its worth a try! But first check the fuel pump relay, It may be getting hot and shutting down pump. Try swapping a relay of the same type, if it is ok, thats the problem. Hope this helps!

Sounds like the same problem I have been having with my 2002 Sedona for
the past 6 or 8 months. It would run OK for several days, weeks, or months,
then just quit. If I let it set for 10 to 20 minutes, it would restart and run fine
for at least the rest of that day. About 2 weeks ago, I was fortunate that it happened when someone was with me, so I was able to determine that it
was not getting any spark. Since then the problem has gotten worse and
more frequent - it was happening almost every day and would take over
1/2 an hour before it would start again. This morning was the last straw.
I drove for about 4 miles and it quit. Took 1 hour and 10 minutes before it
would restart. Drove another 2 miles and did it again. This time it took
1 hour 35 minutes before restart. After 1 more mile, it quit again. Took 2
hours, this time. Made it another mile and BAM! - did it again.
My bro towed me home. I determined that it is most likely NOT the crankshaft position sensor, because 99% of the time they either work,
or they don't. Very rarely does it cause in intermittant problem. The most
likely suspect is the engine computer. That was always a likely culpret
when I worked on GM cars. Today I installed a $50 junk yard engine control computer. I am crossing my fingers!
I will know on Thursday, as I have a 50 mile trip to make.
I will post again on Thursday, to let you all know.

Sounds like the same problem I have been having with my 2002
Sedona for the past 6 or 8 months. It would run OK for several days,
weeks, or months, then just quit. If I let it set for 10 to 20 minutes, it
would restart and run fine for at least the rest of that day. About 2
weeks ago, I was fortunate that it happened when someone was
with me, so I was able to determine that it was not getting any spark.
Since then the problem has gotten worse and more frequent - it was
happening almost every day and would take over 1/2 an hour before it
would start again. This morning was the last straw. I drove for about 4
miles and it quit. Took 1 hour and 10 minutes before it would restart.
Drove another 2 miles and did it again. This time it took 1 hour 35
minutes before restart. After 1 more mile, it quit again. Took 2 hours,
this time. Made it another mile and BAM! - did it again. My bro towed
me home. I determined that it is most likely NOT the crankshaft
position sensor, because 99% of the time they either work, or they
don't. Very rarely does it cause in intermittant problem. The most
likely suspect is the engine computer. That was always a likely
culpret when I worked on GM cars. Today I installed a $50 junk yard
engine control computer.
I am crossing my fingers!
I will know on Thursday, as I have a 50 mile trip to make.
I will post again on Thursday, to let you all know.

. Next time you can pour or spray water on the crank sensor and see if it will start. Replace it.

The car has to go through a certain number of driving cycles (start, drive, shut down) after the computer has been reset or the battery disconnected for an extended period of time before it will be ready, sometimes 50 or more depending on the vehicle. You could drive 1,000 miles and it wouldn't make a difference. Take your car on multiple short trips, around 15-20 minutes each, letting it sit for a while in between. Just starting and shutting down the car won't count either.

Lets focus on the plugs for a moment. All you really need to do is remove 1 plug and check to see if it is fowled. This will show you what one looks like http://www.ehow.com/video_2326832_identify-bad-spark-plug.html and this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6A1keWQAeE is part of my training program at work for my new master techs to view and tested on before they are certified Also, if your car is shaking, your look at BAD TIMING which needs to be set by an auto shop so the vehicle stops shaking. The most cost efficient way to do this is to pay for the TIMING first see if that fixes the problem, then if not you change the spark plugs yourself as you never know what the auto shop will put inside your heads!!! Estimated fees if you want a shop to change your plugs in SC is about $200 for an 8 cylinder and fee for the timing is about $75

Drive light flashing indicates stored code/s. Starting and stopping could be filter stopping up. Should have shop check it.

a bad crank sensor causes a car to shut down while driving down road. and will not start back up for about 10 minutes. have car scanned to read the problem codes. any auto parts stores will scan for free.

You have classic symptoms of a failing BCM (body control module), it is the brain off all of these systems, the dealer has the correct test equip. to address this issue in a timely manner, outside shops are lost on these kinks of modern automotive electronic control systems, they guess and cost you allot of money.