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The Monitor heater got pulled away from the exhaust pipe so we had a terrible smell, I shut it all down, called for pro help. They hooked everything up, but didn't do much else! When I turned it all back on, the lifter pump wasn't working. The heater was not getting fuel. So, I primed the thing, per hte pro's over the phone instruction, and it worked! For as long as there was available primer, it worked great! Like, one pint equaled 20 minutes maybe! I cannot find a manual online ANYWHERE -- I want to take this thing apart, clean it and see if that will do the job. It WAS working just fine before the leak. I just don't know what to do now, and it just started snownig. I am COLD and do not have the $300 - $500 to fix or replace this lifter pump!
ANYONE??? SCHEMATIC?? MANUAL?? HELP! (and before some wise acre suggests this: there ARE no online manuals from the manufacturer that are found easily or by researching hard, for hours! It's not even made anymore!)
BTW .. fixya keeps putting this ins cars and it's NOT about a car! LOL It's about a oil heater's lifter pump! I picked the YUGO cause it was such a sloppy car and so is this old lifter pump! Fixya won't let me post without including the year, make and model of a CAR!! Sheesh. No wonder I got no help the first time I asked .... OVER TWO MONTHS AGO!!!
The pump is not drawing oil but only when when sucking. (You knew that). I would guess that moving the heater caused a small leak in the oil suction line or pluggage in a suction strainer/filter. When primed, everything is OK. So ignitor, nozzle, etc is OK when the prime fluid is present. But the pump cannot draw liquid. Look for a very small leak in the suction letting air in. Look for pluggage in a suction filter. It won't take much air inleak or suction restriction to stop a pump from lifting.
I don't have a motorcycle license but I drive almost anything that goes off-road. I also have a 700cc Skidoo Mach 1 which is explained because I live in Wisconsin. I'm looking for a new (well used) ATV and figure with the way gas is, I should be able to find one fairly cheap. I have friends that ride the big bikes. I actually just replaced and upgraded the engine in my car which is more than can be said by the Indian posters who probably only own a bike(cycle). I answer what I know, so if the motorcycle area has something I can answer, I will, otherwise I leave it be. I post in many different areas but I'm the kind of guy that fixes everything himself so knowledge is not a problem. So thanks and hope to see you here for a long time or at least until I get fed up with the yahoos.
Have a good night, I think it might be Ping Pong time soon.
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This type of noise is usually caused by malfunctioning valve lifters or an exhaust manifold leak. If the noise lasts for more than a minute and completely disappears or dimishes after the engine is warm, the most likely cause is an exhaust manifold leak. If the noise only lasts for a few seconds, the most likely cause is a valve lifter malfunction. You should start your diagnosis with a visual inspection of the exhaust system. Inspect the exhaust manifolds for leaking gaskets or cracks. Black soot marks where the manifold mates to the cylinder head are key indicators of an exhaust manifold gasket leak. Inspect for broken exhaust manifold bolts. Inspect the gasket area where the manifold bolts to the exhaust pipe. Small exhaust leaks can often self seal once the metal engine parts are heated and expanded.
If there are no signs of an exhaust leak and the noise dissipates a few seconds after starting the vehicle, you should suspect an oil control or valve lifter malfunction. Hydraulic valve lifters use the engines oil pressure to expand the lifter which provides a zero valve lash clearance. This prevents the valves from tapping. When the engine is shut off, a valve and spring in the lifter keep it expanded and retain the oil within the lifter. If the valve or spring allows the oil to drain from the lifter, it will collapse. Upon start up, the lifter will take a few moments to "pump up" and expand as the oil pressure builds in the engine. During this time, the valves may tap since there is clearance between the rocker arm and lifter..
The pump is not drawing oil but only when when sucking. (You knew that). I would guess that moving the heater caused a small leak in the oil suction line or pluggage in a suction strainer/filter. When primed, everything is OK. So ignitor, nozzle, etc is OK when the prime fluid is present. But the pump cannot draw liquid. Look for a very small leak in the suction letting air in. Look for pluggage in a suction filter. It won't take much air inleak or suction restriction to stop a pump from lifting.
Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container.
Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for more complete
coolant drain.
Remove upper and lower exhaust manifold heat shields.
Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
Break loose the manifold to exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts using a 13mm box wrench.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
NOTE: It is necessary to relieve the spring
pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring
pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and
bind up the bolt as it is removed.
Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
Remove the other bolt.
Remove the first bolt.
Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and
transaxle. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the exhaust
manifold brace. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on
the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
Loosen and reposition the rear engine mount and bracket for clearance, as required.
Remove the water pump mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover assembly, then separate the two pieces.
Check this procedure, according with the repair guide for...
2.3L and 2.4L Engines (see Figure 9)
Disconnect the negative battery cable
Detach the oxygen sensor connector.
Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container.
Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for more complete
coolant drain.
Remove upper exhaust manifold heat shield.
Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
Remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield.
Break loose the manifold to exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts using a 13mm box wrench.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to
removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it
will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is
removed.
Unfasten the two radiator outlet pipe-to-water pump cover bolts.
Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
Remove the other bolt.
Remove the first bolt.
On the 2.4L engines, DO NOT rotate the flex coupling more than 4° or damage may occur.Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. If
equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace.
Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe
to remove it from the water pump. Leave the radiator outlet pipe hang.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Unfasten the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head retaining nuts, then remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
For the 2.4L engine, remove the front timing chain cover and the
chain tensioner. For details, please refer to the procedure located
later in this section.
Unfasten the water pump-to-cylinder block bolts. Remove the water
pump-to-timing chain housing nuts. Remove the water pump and cover
mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover as an assembly,
then separate the two pieces.
Fig. 9: Water pump and cover mounting - 2.3L and 2.4L engines (click over image for zoom) To install:
Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt
holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and
tighten the bolts finger-tight.
Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and
install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the
mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight.
Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and slid
the pipe onto the water pump cover. Install the bolts finger-tight.
With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values:
Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Pump cover-to-pump assembly-106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-pump cover-125 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold. Make sure to
following the tightening sequence and torque specifications given in the
exhaust manifold procedure located in this section.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Index the exhaust manifold bolts into the exhaust pipe flange.
Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the exhaust pipe
flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. Turn the bolts in
until fully seated.
Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan. Install the exhaust manifold brace, if removed.
On the 2.4L engine, install the timing chain tensioner and front cover.
Install the lower heat shield.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification.
Install the upper heat shield.
Attach the oxygen sensor connector.
Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose
outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave
the radiator cap off.
Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the
vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank
to their proper levels, then turn the engine off.
Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level.
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Water Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
2.4L Engine
Disconnect the negative battery cable
Detach the Oxygen (O2) sensor electrical connector.
Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for a more complete coolant drain.
Remove upper exhaust manifold heat shield.
Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
Remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield.
Break the manifold-to-exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts loose using a 13mm box wrench.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
NOTE: It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed.
Unfasten the two radiator outlet pipe-to-water pump cover bolts.
Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
Remove the other bolt.
Remove the first bolt.
NOTE: DO NOT rotate the flex coupling more than 4°or damage may occur.
Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump. Leave the radiator outlet pipe hang.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Unfasten the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head retaining nuts, then remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
Remove the front timing chain cover and the chain tensioner. For details, please refer to the procedure located later in this section.
Unfasten the water pump-to-cylinder block bolts. Remove the water pump-to-timing chain housing nuts. Remove the water pump and cover mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover as an assembly, then separate the two pieces.
Fig. 1: Water pump and cover mounting - 2.4L engine
To install:
Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight.
Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and slide the pipe onto the water pump cover. Install the bolts finger-tight.
With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values:
Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts:19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Pump cover-to-pump assembly: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first: 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-pump cover: 125 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold. Make sure to following the tightening sequence and torque specifications given in the exhaust manifold procedure located in this section.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Index the exhaust manifold bolts into the exhaust pipe flange.
Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the exhaust pipe flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. Turn the bolts in until fully seated.
Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan.
Install the timing chain tensioner and front cover.
Install the lower heat shield.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification.
Install the upper heat shield.
Attach the oxygen sensor connector.
Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave the radiator cap off.
Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to their proper levels, then turn the engine OFF.
Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level, then install the radiator cap.
PLEASE DON'T FORGET TO RATE! THANKS!
2.3L & 2.4L Engines
Disconnect the negative battery cable
Detach the oxygen sensor connector.
Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for more complete coolant drain.
Remove upper exhaust manifold heat shield.
Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
Remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield.
Break loose the manifold to exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts using a 13mm box wrench.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed.
Unfasten the two radiator outlet pipe-to-water pump cover bolts.
Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
Remove the other bolt.
Remove the first bolt.
On the 2.4L engines, DO NOT rotate the flex coupling more than 4° or damage may occur.
Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump. Leave the radiator outlet pipe hang.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Unfasten the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head retaining nuts, then remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
For the 2.4L engine, remove the front timing chain cover and the chain tensioner. For details, please refer to the procedure located later in this section.
Unfasten the water pump-to-cylinder block bolts. Remove the water pump-to-timing chain housing nuts. Remove the water pump and cover mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover as an assembly, then separate the two pieces.
Water pump and cover mounting-2.3L and 2.4L engines
To install:
Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight.
Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and slid the pipe onto the water pump cover. Install the bolts finger-tight.
With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values:
Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Pump cover-to-pump assembly-106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-pump cover-125 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold. Make sure to following the tightening sequence and torque specifications given in the exhaust manifold procedure located in this section.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Index the exhaust manifold bolts into the exhaust pipe flange.
Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the exhaust pipe flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. Turn the bolts in until fully seated.
Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan. Install the exhaust manifold brace, if removed.
On the 2.4L engine, install the timing chain tensioner and front cover.
Install the lower heat shield.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification.
Install the upper heat shield.
Attach the oxygen sensor connector.
Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave the radiator cap off.
Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to their proper levels, then turn the engine off.
Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level.
2.4 enigine is the harder of the 3 enignes. it will need a timing chain to be removed and a coolant tube in the back of the engine to be removed. this job on the book calls for almost 7 hours.
if its 3.3 or 3100 its alot easier.
3100 is just 4 10mm pulley bolts and 5 or 6 small 8mm water pump bolts.
3.3 is alittle more work, but same concept as 3100 engine. more owkr only cause its in a tighter area.
you could quick fix! but you will have no heat, 1st under the hood, look at the back of motor, follow all you're radiator hoses, take two hoses off the heater core stick a pipe that is big enough then clamp the pipe down. to both sides of hoses to the pipe you will eventually have to replace heater core!!
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