I have a 36ft winnebago Chieftain on a F53 chassis. I need to replace the fuel pump in the tank but the leveling jacks seem to go around the tank any idea how I remove them to get to the tank. If at

pat murray

• 293 Answers
• Posted on Oct 11, 2008

SOURCE: How TO REPLACE A IN TANK FUEL PUMP ON A 2000 gmc jimmy

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a13e9
hope this helps

Evan Jenson

• 122 Answers
• Posted on Nov 13, 2008

SOURCE: diagram to remove and install a fuel pump on 1999 jeep grand cherokee laredo

I apologize for not being able to provide a diagram, and it's been a while since I've replaced a fuel pump in a Jeep like yours, however the fuel pump for that vehicle is located within the fuel tank. You will typically disconnect power from the battery,relieve the pressure from the fuel rail to the injectors. In most cases the test port on the fuel rail has a schrader valve "valve core" like a tire valve, which utilizing a rag to absorb excess fuel you can depress to relieve pressure. You will then have to detach the fuel filler tube and vent tube at the filler neck. With a floor jack supporting the tank ,there should be a couple of bolts holding either two straps around the tank or a large cover that covers and supports the tank itself ,that will need removal. Once you have removed these and you should be able to access the top of the tank. Bear in mind you don't put the fuel pump/sending unit wiring harness or the fuel and vent tubing under too much strain as you lower the tank. you should have enough room to disconnect this wiring and fuel tubing. the tubing will probably have a quick disconnect setup where it attaches to the pump assembly. Once you have the tank on the ground take a suitable (non sparking drift and hammer) to tap the retaining ring that holds the pump in the tank, around the openig to release it. The pump assembly will be spring loaded and the top may pop up out of the tank. Just be sure to protect yourself from any fuel that might spray up. To reinstall can be a slight chore sometimes, as the assembly is spring loaded. It usually goes in with just a slight amount of effort though. Remember to replace the fuel sock on the pump and o-ring seal around the top of the opening. You can purchase just the electric pump, but I'd recommend replacing the whole fuel pump assembly. It will cost more in parts, but longer part warranty and lesser chance of further damaging the assembly are the benefits. Naturally installation is the reverse of removal. I'd recommend a new fuel filter as well, or shortly thereafter. Chrysler factory replacement units recommend draining all the old fuel from the tank and replacing with new fuel (never done that, and with the price of gas, probably won't start) I have never seen an adverse effect from not doing so. I hope this posting has helped.

SOURCE: in-the-tank fuel pump r&r

Here are instructions for replacment with a diagram of the fuel pump components my only suggestion would be instead of draining the tank and dropping the fuel tank if you unbolt the box and using a jack and and some wood lift the fuel tank side of the box this will give you access to the tank and fuel pump/ sending unit. It will save you time and the hastle of replacing the tank straps which are prone to snapping at the threads when trying to remove the nuts.If these brake you will have to replace them.

Greg Bernett

• 2993 Answers
• Posted on Apr 18, 2010

SOURCE: 1997 Dakota v8 water pump replacement steps

Hope this helps!

Common Steps

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable(s).
   
2. Drain the cooling system.
   
3. Remove the accessory drive belt.
   
4. Remove the lower radiator hose (except Diesel).
   
5. Disconnect the heater hose from the pump, if fitted.
   

1. Always use a new gasket when installing the water pump. Clean mating surfaces thoroughly before installation.
   
2. This would be a good time to replace radiator hoses. At least, inspect them carefully for aging or other damage.
   
3. If the heater hose pipe was removed, use thread sealant or equivalent on the pipe threads (if threaded), or lubricate any O-rings with coolant before installing.
   
4. Check the accessory belt routing against the plate in the engine compartment before starting engine.
   
5. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature and check for leaks.
   

1. Carry out the "Common Steps" above.
   
2. Remove the upper radiator hose.
   
3. Remove the fan and shroud assembly.
   
4. On engines except 4.7L, remove the four water pump pulley bolts and remove the pulley.
   
5. Remove the heater hose pipe mounting bolt, if fitted.
   
6. On engines except 4.7L, loosen the bypass hose clamp at the water pump.
   
7. Remove the seven water pump mounting bolts and, on the 4.7L, one nut.
   

1. Reverse the removal procedure.
   
2. The 8.0L engine uses an O-ring to seal. Use a new one and lubricate it with petroleum jelly before installation of the pump. Also, use sealant on the threads of the heater hose pipe, position the pipe as shown before installing the pump and tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
   
3. On pushrod engines, connect the bypass hose to the pump while installing it.
   
4. Tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) on pushrod engines, 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 4.7L engine.
   
5. Spin pump to ensure the impeller is not rubbing against the timing chain case.
   
6. When installing the heater hose pipe, ensure that the slot in the pipe bracket is bearing against the mounting bolt. This will hold the pipe in as far as possible to prevent leaks.
   
7. Tighten pulley bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) on V-6 and V-8, 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) on the V-10.
   

SOURCE: I need to replace the fuel pump in my 2002

I HA NO DIAGRAM BUT IS VERY EASY I THINK YOU WILL HAVE NO TROUBLE DOING IT THE TANK IS HOLDTO THE FRAME BY TWO STRAPS EACH ONE HAVE A BOLT AT THE END YOU WILL NEED A 15 mm DEEP SOCKET, SECURE TANK PRIOR TO REMOVE STRAPS SO IT WOUN'T FALL,LOWER TANK SO YOU CAN DISCONNECT ELECTRIC CONNECTOR AND FUEL LINES YOU WILL NEED A DISCONNECTING TOOL FOR FUEL LINES THIS IS A VERY INEXPENSIVE TOOL JUST PUSH IT IN THE GAP OF LINE CONNECTION AND PULL LINE OUT THE PUMP IS LOCK IN THE TANK BY A LOCK RING YOU WILL NEED TO PUT PRESSURE OR TAP WITH SREW DRIVER OR CHISEL MAY BE A HAMMER AFTER YOU REMOVE THIS RING THE PUMP IS FREE JUST SLIDE OUT. TO INSTALL JUST REVERSE PROCEDURES YOU WILL NOT NEED THE DISCONNECTING TOOL AT THIS TIME. HOPEFULLY THIS HELPS IF SO PLEASE CHECK IT IN CORNER OF THIS BOX IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE I'LL BE HAPPY TO HELP THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME

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