I'll give you the correct answer, but I know you're not going to want to hear it.
Every step you did, following discovery of the first blown fuse, was the wrong thing to do, and made a simple short in wiring (or internal short in the radio or amp) now a major electrical issue.
When a fuse blows, that is telling you that there is a short somewhere "upstream" of that fuse. With the burnt wiring or burnt electronics smell, that typically is due to using a fuse (or wiring circuit) that has far greater amp rating than the gauge of wiring or devices that are connected to that fuse/circuit. Once you smell anything burnt, the simple short has now spread and increased in electrical damage.
You basically forced the electrical system to do far more damage by disconnecting the battery, replacing the under hood fuse, and forcing current/electricity to a shorted out wiring circuit or shorted component (radio or amp). People always make the fatal mistake of disregarding what a fuse is intended for, and what it should tell you, and they try to force faulty/damaged wiring or equipment to work by repeatedly shoving new fuses back in (frequently with higher amp rating). This makes what started as a simple problem, much much worse.
Now, your first step in repair/recovery is to completely remove the amp and radio, inspect each thoroughly (and smell each for burnt smell), but more importantly examine every inch of EVERY wire that leads to these 2 units all the way from the underhood fuse box to the components themselves (not easy, as you know). I suspect there may be a loom of wires that now has a major short with burnt/melted insulation.
SOURCE: Starter and wiring
maybe burning smell is comes from the starter,i think the magnetic field of the starter is burned,check it
SOURCE: When this started with the
Is this the 2.4L or 2.2L engine? Looking for the wiring diagrams just need engine size.
SOURCE: why do the fuses on my scion xb keep blowing?
Did you check to make sure the fuses are the right rating to begin with. Fuses are rated by amperage and disconnect the circuit or "blow" if there if the circuit is shorted out (+ touches - or vice versa) or a device or circuit draws more amperage than the fuse is rated. Did you buy the vehicle new? If not then there may have been modifications. Does is have the stock radio? Does it have an amp or subwoofer? Driving lights? There is also a fuse block with relays and fusable links under the hood. Refer to the owners manual and verifiy all the components in both fuse blocks are of the correct type and rating. Physically remove and inspect every related fuse and make sure no one has "jumped" a fuse by wrapping it in foil or ataching a solid wire across the connection. If all that works out ok, have the voltage reguator checked as it is regulates a constact rate of power to the car. If is is allowing momentary surges, it is possible that it could exceed the cirucit ratings especiallly on the 10 and 15 amp circuits that most of your accessorys and lighting use; Good Luck.
you obviously have a short to ground on one of the wires to the back (if it was the front the brake shouldn't blow the fuse). the most common problem is usually in a trailer light harness. if you look under the drivers side rear of the truck, down under the tail light there will be a plugin junction. pull this plug-in apart and see if the fuse still blows. if it does then the problem is forward of that connector, if it doesn't then the problem is behind that plugin. be sure to check for "green death" (electrical corrosion) at all joints especially any trailer hook ups.
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