Unfortunately some vehicles use the same fuse for ignition and non- critical electrical devices such as the cigarette lighter, interior lighting trunk opener solenoid etc... It could also be that the power supply wire (red) for the radio is double tapped to a fuse that is dedicated to any number of components and if it is interrupted (blown) the vehicle won't start or even crank. Another possibility is the vehicles computer detected a short or high amp draw and disabled the ignition to avoid fire or further electrical system damage.
The radio/player power line should be properly fuse protected for the highest amperage that the radio/player may draw when it is at maximum wattage, meaning CRANKED UP! It must be connected to the positive cable coming from the battery, safely away from the battery using a properly rated power terminal or power bar that is covered and sealed. It must be securely mounted, grounded and in an area that is clear of anything under the hood . This requires cutting the positive cable, putting connectors on each side of the cut cable and connecting them along with the player and power amplifier power line(s) to the new power terminal.
DO NOT CONNECT THE PLAYER LINE DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY TERMINAL! The power line wiring for the player at max. volume MUST be of the correct amp rated gauge. You may also need to get a higher amp battery and a higher gauge battery cable to handle the power draw. It is also CRITICAL that every entertainment system component is SECURELY grounded with the right gauge ground wire to metal that is part of the vehicles frame. Failure to do this on a high amp system will toast your vehicles entire electrical system, (very costly mistake) also use dielectric grease on all electrical connections to maintain the integrity of all connections. I may have given you too much info, Good luck!
138 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×