95 bmw 325i cranks but wont start.Has fire to plugs,checked fuel pump fuse, relay and main relay,no ground to fuel relay socket,no hot or ground going to fuel pump,,suspect DME ??? Was running fine un
Pulled the DME and it had light corrosion on couple terminals,,so cleaned them and still no activation of fuel pump relay with key in run or start positions so no power or ground to fuel pump so what else could it be if not the DME
Re: 95 bmw 325i cranks but wont start.Has fire to...
Try to disarm the alarm system first,if that doesn't work,try your spare key,if it works the key is faulty.if this fails,put it on diagnostic machine.,since it can be EWS.
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Lots of things could cause a no-start, Hendrik. Is your "Check Engine" light on? If so, please have someone get the OBD error codes from the car's computer.
Does it crank but not fire?
If it doesn't crank, check the battery condition, battery connections, ground connections to frame and engine block, starter solenoid, starter motor.
If it cranks, doublecheck your fuel pump installation. Make sure the new fuel pump is properly connected and properly electrically grounded. Look for a fuel pump fuse. Check for proper fuel pressure at the fuel rail, check the fuel flow rate. Check for spark, check or replace spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, plug wires. Check valve timing, replace timing belt or chain if necessary. Check compression.
Lets start at the beginning. The engine computer grounds the pump relay. The relay gets power from the EFI relay when the key switch is on and from the starter fuse when the key switch is in the start position. Do you know if the pump relay is getting power from both sources and a ground from the computer ? Can you run a hot wire to the blue black wire going to the pump and keep it running ?
Check the fuse for the pump first. You can check that fuse for power when key is on with a test light. Then find the fuel pump relay, probably in relay box under hood, and put your finger lightly on it and listen and feel for it to click when someone turns the key to on. If relay does click, the problem is likely with the wire to tank from relay, the connector at the tank, or the wire going into the pump. If relay doesn't click, or if it does and you haven't found problem yet, pull the relay out and with test light grounded to engine, probe all relay terminals for one hot terminal- one will be hot at all times. If no hot terminal, could be fuse link or maxi-fuse that feeds that relay box. If one terminal is hot, have someone be cranking the engine over while you check the other terminals for a second hot terminal. When cranking, two terminals should show power, the main feed for pump, and the signal from computer that energizes relay so power is passed to pump. If two terminals are hot when cranking, try a known good relay. If still no help, problem is with wiring to the pump from relay, or the ground for that relay needs checked. Post back with what you find. Good luck.
Sounds like a ground wire problem. Does it act up in the rain or after a wash? That could indicate the fuse block under the hood my be geting moisture. But definitely check the main ground, fuse Block ground, and headlights ground. Check headlights plugs n turn signal plugs n sockets. Also, start by changing the bulbs. Both of them. There's two filaments in each bulb, one for marker lights and one for blinking
Have you checked your fuel pump relay? This is located in the engine bay, front left, near the air-intake. Is grouped with a 2-3 other relays, seperate from fuse box.
check the ignition module fuse.if fuse is good.have car scanned to look for ignition control module fault codes or crankshaft sensor fault codes.by using or have somebody with diagnostic scanner to check for codes this way you wont spend extra money guessing.
I suppose that you mean it starts but doesn't continue to run. And if you try to start it right away it'll just crank. The fuel pump is on in crank but not in run ( maybe ). Find the fuel pump relay in the underhood fuse relay panel and use a test light to cheak the pins for power and ground. First with the test light hooked to a good ground, check to see if it works first ( touch the battery positive ) then touch all the pins of the relay ( removed ) One should be hot all the time ( if not the fuel pump fuse is blown) another should be hot with the key on. one of the others will be hot only in crank ( this is the fuel pump) The last other is ground with the engine running after started. The one thats hot in crank put power to it with a jumper wire and start the engine ( it'll run ) the fuel pump also gets turned on by the oil pressure switch and the fuel pump fuse is blown it'll also not run the engine. But it'll run right after it's cranked and quit
I had this problem in my shop and its been a Crank sensor and on one occasion it was a fuel pump relay that was bad. Most like its a the cranks sensor that's bad NOT the fuel pump relay but check both. To check see what missing when vehicle doesn't start or shuts off . If there is NO gas its the relay. If there is NO spark its the cranks sensor. Good Luck and contact if you need more help. Thanks for using FIX YA
Sound like a connection (loos of the ground circuit) problem to the in tank fuel pump, I wouls suggest you check all the connections from the fire wall back for any loose or corroded connectors.
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