I have a 1995 probe gt and as of right now can not seem to change votlage on tps to get it at 5.0 votlage with harrness disconted and key on(engine not running).I had gain on tps befor egr code came up.This seem's to be the answear to votlage cut out but what does the EGR have to do with the TPS? Also Would royal pruple 10-30 synthetic oil hurt car?Had done oil change when car had 117340 on it now it has 119768 on it.Could i change the oil back to regular oil with out hurtting engine?Scene i have change o2's and egr code came about i have blue somke come out the exhuast when I start from a stop and to a stop when low idle.is this cause by the egr being bad?

TPS wiring may be frayed.

You are still getting high or low voltage at tps? What is the voltage and do you have a unstable idle? Put you + lead on terminal 3 and - lead on terminal 1 turn ignition on and check voltage to be at approximately 5 volts. You can also back probe with it connected at center wire and ground probe to a good ground at engine. Turn ignition on it should read between 0.20 - 0.90 slowly manually open throttle it should rise all the way to 4.5 voltd at full open. If its bad change tps if no 5.0 volts from pcm on first test check connections at pcm. The center tps connector supply wire comes from pin 22 and connection 3 ( which is 5 volt supply ) comes from pin 6. You should be able to back probe pin 6 turn ignition on and have 5 volts. If not 5 v brain has problem.

something that might help if there ant nothing wrong discont battery + and - termanls then put them back on something car just need a reset srry about bad spellin tired

Hello www_ropesmor,

This code P0123 is Throttle position sensor circuit high input.

There four basic reasons for this code.

1. An open or short to ground between the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the ECM (Engine control module).
2. A short to battery voltage between TPS and the ECM.
3. A short between the TPS wires.
4. A faulty TPS.

See below for connector diagrams.

First, with scan tool monitor TPS with throttle closed voltage should be
I f you don't have a scan tool, back probe terminal 1with a volt meter to ground and you will see the voltage as outlined above otherwise follow the steps below.


1.Check to see if there is about 5 volts at the TPS; with engine off key on disconnect the TPS back probe the harness side terminal 3 to ground with a volt meter if there is about 5 volts go to step 2 if about 5 volts if not repair the 5 volt circuit.

2. Probe the harness side terminal 2 to chassis ground with a volt meter, if voltage above .02 repair circuit 2 short to voltage. If voltage is .02 volts or below go to step 3.

3. Probe the harness side terminal 1 to ground with volt meter if below .5 volts go to step 4 if not repair short to battery between TSP harness and ECM connector

4 Turn the ignition off and disconnect the ECM connector . With an ohm meter measure the resistance between the ECM (terminal C18) and TPS ground circuit it should be below 1 ohm. Measure the resistance between the ECM (terminal C8) and TPS signal circuit it should be below 1 ohm. If not repair the open circuit.

After faulty circuit is found and repaired clear code and verify repair.







I hope this helps.

Regards,

netvan

wheather your a2 .0 or 2.5 at idle key on engine off its is 0.7V to 1.1 V. you test it by doing a sweep, with your volt meter,voltage should increase with smooth throttle movement there should be no drop out or glitches and at wide open throttle you should reach 4.5 V , (***) wide open throttle

Hi, the primary sensor inputs used by the computer to establish the appropriate injector pulse width are the MAF snesor and the TPS. I recommend you test these sensors according to procedure pasted below and repair as indicated by test results. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

MAF Sensor Tests, 1995-96 4.6L Engines

Fig. Fig. 3: The mass air flow (MAF) sensor connector-1995-96 4.6L and 1996 3.8L engines

1. With engine running, use DVOM to verify there is at least 10.5 volts between terminals A and B of the MAF sensor connector. This indicates the power input to the sensor is okay.
   
2. With engine running, use DVOM to measure voltage between MAF sensor connector terminals C and D. If the reading is about 0.34-1.96 volts at idle, the sensor is okay.

TPS TESTING (Note, this procedure calls for a breakout box, but the same test can be accomplished by probing the back of the TPS connector at the brown/white and grey/white wires)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the PCM and connect a breakout box to the PCM and harness.
3. Probe terminals 89 and 90 with an ohmmeter.
4. Slowly rotate the throttle shaft and monitor the ohmmeter for a continuous change in resistance. Any sudden changes in resistance indicates an open or substrate sensor.
5. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
6. Turn the ignition switch ON and using a voltmeter, measure the voltage between terminals 89 and 90 of the breakout box. The specification is 0.8 volts on the 2.3L, 3.8L and 5.0L engines or 0.9 volts on the 4.6L engine.
7. If the voltage is outside the standard value or if it does not change smoothly, inspect the circuit wiring and/or replace the throttle position sensor.

No Fuel Pressure--BUT you have 26# ?
No Pump Noise--BUT it runs ?

Is the fuel filter fairly new
Did you check out the pressure regulator,
MAF & TPS Sensors?

A dual-overhead-cam 4-cylinder engine powered base Probes in 1993, developing 115 horsepower. The GT coupe held a 164-horsepower V6, also of dual-overhead-cam configuration. Both engines are Mazda designs. No more turbocharged engines were available. A 5-speed manual transmission was standard; 4-speed overdrive automatic optional. Except for a slight horsepower/torque boost in 1995 for the 4-cylinder engine, and a mild V6 torque increase the year before, powertrains saw no change in this period.



Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

Hello! The Throttle Positioning sensor (TPS) is the likely culprit...It is mounted to the throttle body and has a three wire connector...
Wire colors are Green/Red. Violet/Yellow and Black/Yellow. The connector may not be fully seated, or has an open wire...If it passes a visual inspection you can test with a voltmeter...With connector in place...And engine at idle...Set volt meter to measure 1 - 4 volts without changing scales...If meter probes will not fit the rear of the connector push in paper clips...connect + meter probe to Violet/Yellow...and - probe to Green/Red...You should read less than 1 volt at idle...Slowly increase engine speed...Voltage should rise to 4 volts SMOOTHLY...If it jumps, jerks or acts erratically The TPS is defective...Send a comment with results.....Guru...........saailer


I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

I recommend you test the tps. Procedure at the link below. The resistance should change linearly as you open the throttle. If it skips and jumps, it is bad.
Repair Guides Electronic Engine Controls Throttle Position Sensor AutoZone...

The signal is on the dark blue wire. Just put your red probe in the back of the connector on that wire terminal and hold your black probe on engine ground.

Tps is upper right on the diagram.