My problem is with a 1997 Chevy Blazer 4x4

SOURCE: 1999 Chevy S10 Blazer 4x4. Replacing rear pad's,& Bleeding Breaks

have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.

SOURCE: 99 chevy blazer lt front passenger window will not

Hi: If other windows work then it can't be FUSE. I would take off the door panel and use a 12 volt test light to see if power is getting to the front passenger door motor (make sure power control switches are attached, key on position). If power... then hot wire the window motor using a 12 volt battery to see if it works. Hook + and - wires from battery directly to the motor, reverse them to make motor go up or down. To remove door panel pop electrical control up for the front and lift out then disconnect plugs. Use 7 MM socket to remove 2 screws under where handle is located. A Phillips screw driver removes the door handle cover. Pull on door panel to pop off, whole process takes under 5 minutes. If motor works and no power to motor from drivers door then there is a broken wire in circuit or the drivers control unit is not working. NEXT... disconnect drivers door control unit and check to see which brass terminals have power (key on position), note them... then put 12 volt power from battery to a terminal from plug that was attached to the passenger door motor, using your test light check drivers door plug to see if there is power to any terminals you DID NOT MARK as having power, if power then you know the circuit is good, do this with both wires from passenger door motor plug. (A circuit tester can be used as well). If continuity then the problem is in the drivers door control unit. If no continuity then a break in the wires to the passenger door, breaks usually occur between the body A pillar and where the wires go to the door as it flexes there every time the door opens or closes. Hope this helps, rate so I know if it is worth my while helping out on here.. thanks...

SOURCE: 94 chevy s10 blazer power windows not working

I had the same problem - driver side fine, passenger side front not working/slow or the back seat. You need to replace the window motor on the passenger side. Yes, there are two motors. It's pretty simple if you are handy with some tools. The hardest part is getting the 4 mounts that hold the window motor to the door off. The are factory riveted to the door, so I had to grind the outsides off and tap them out. Just watch the spring lever that holds the window bar for going up and down. I didn't pay attention and it snapped back - nearly broke my thumb.

Dani-Lynn

Harvey N Tawatao

• 3854 Answers
• Posted on Feb 21, 2010

SOURCE: S 10 1997 Chevy Blazer brake locking up

Common cause is the drums and brake shoes need to be replaced. When there no longer within the the specification for the brakes to work properly, the self adjusters will over adjust the brake shoes and you'll have the feeling of the rear drum brakes lock up as the shoes will bind up along the drums. Replace both Shoes and Drums and this can be done on your own will common tools and a simple brake spring tool that you can pick up at Auto Zone or Parts Source and both can give you the step by step instructions to replacing the rear brake system. Good luck and be safe.

SOURCE: 1997 chevy Blazer ZR2 4x4 not engaging

Fab only gave part of an answer. Check the vacuum lines on the driverside firewall. Also check your heater/AC unit make sure the air deflector will change from defrost to vent. If it stays on defrost no matter where you put the knob then you have a disconnected or leaking vacuum line to the dash. If that works and you don't see any open hoses then remove the battery and battery tray. You'll find the actuator there. Remove the vaccum line that goes to it, connect the battery or jumper cables so that you can start the engine. Put it in 4HI and feel for a vacuum at the line. If you do then put it on the actuator and see if it pulls on the cable. If there is no vacuum at that line then the switch at the transfer is bad and isn't sending vacuum to the actuator. If you do have vacuum and the cable didn't pull then change the actuator.