Recently my daughters timing belt broke i replaced the belt got everything to TDC and it started but there is a knocking sound and it wouldnt stay idling unless i kept my foot on the gas (it is running rough) somebody told me to do a compression test and this is what i got #1 got 0psi compression #2 got a little over 100psi #3 got approx. 118 psi and #4 got 121psi i know that #1 probally has a bbad valve but i dont know what is a good # to say if the rest are good or do i need to replace any more and also with this being a duall over head cam how many vavles are there for each cylinder?
I am guessin you have the 1.6l engine. from what i recall a few months back while reading through a service manual, the ideal compression ratio should be about 190psi, with a minimum ratio of 170psi. the difference in the cylinders should not exceed 20psi. based on the results you have given, i think you have a serious problem. i would recommend you try a "wet' compression test. that would atleast give an indication of whether or not the piston rings are worn out as well.
to answer your second question, the 1.6l has a total of 16 valves, four per cylinder, 2 exhaust and 2 intake.
SOURCE: 2001 hyundai accent 1.5 liter SOHC 12v engine.
With regrets, Not likely, pull the vlave cover and observe the height of the valves, if it is bent it should be not quite as tall as the rest.
SOURCE: The belt broke so I need to know where the timing
First you need to find out if this is a "safe" engine, a few are but most bend some valve when the belt goes (you could try turning gently by hand using the alternator belt) proceed as follows:-remove the drive belts, water pump pulleys, crank pulley, and the upper and lower timing covers. You'll also need to remove the motor mount if
You'll need to move the tensioner for installation of the new belt. Loosen both the pivot and clamp bolts on the tensioner. Pry the tensioner up and toward the back of the car, and when at the rearmost position, tighten the clamping bolt.
You'll also need to line up the camshaft and crankshaft to TDC. There's a small hole in the camshaft sprocket that lines up with a notch in the front camshaft bearing cap. The hole should be pretty much straight up when aligned. There's a notch in the crankshaft sprocket that lines up with a *** on the front case of the engine. If I recall correctly, this puts the Woodruff key at about 3:00 when aligned.
Then install the timing belt with all the slack on the tensioner side. Loosen the tensioner clamping bolt to release the tensioner, let it self-tension with the spring force, and retighten the clamping bolt. Turn the engine clockwise with the crankshaft two crankshaft revolutions (1 cam revolution). This will make sure you have the proper amount of slack on the tensioner side. Recheck to make sure your marks are still aligned. Then loosen the tensioner clamping bolt once again to let it self-adjust, and tighten the clamping and pivot bolts.
After that, it's just a matter of putting everything back that you took off, but before doing anything, you may wish to consider that it's likely engine damage was done when the timing belt broke. You may wish to pull the plugs and examine before you start anything mentioned above. Evidence of anything hitting the plug is a sign of a valve broken off and probably a need for an entire engine. You may also, after installing the timing belt, wish to bolt the crank pulley back on and see if the engine starts. If the engine cranks quickly (lack of compression) and won't start, you've at least bent some valves and will need to remove the cylinder head.
SOURCE: one cylinder has zero compression. took head off
OK!... did you do a cylinder 'leak down test'?.. .if not, do it! If any 'unacceptable' leakage, have the head REDONE! NOW!.. you must BE SURE the valve timing is accurate!... Go to www.hmaservice.com and register( Vehicle by VIN). Afterward, you have access to shop manuals, service bulletins, wiring diagrams, etc. about your vehicle.
SOURCE: 2002 hyundai accent DL sedan. my tension pulley
hi from uk to retime cambelt is as follows = the crank cog has a mark which lines up with corresponding mark on front of engine block mark is approx 12-30 o/clock this is TDC No 1 the the cam cog has a small drilled hole in one of the webs just below the cog teeth ? this hole has to be at 12-o/clock position and then using a small mirror if you look through this hole you will see a vertical notch on the front of block this is theTDC mark for cam you then fit belt anticlockwise from c/shaft to cam then round tensioner then release tensionor to tension belt and then lock it up torque both bolts 20 - 27Nm rotate engine manually 4 complete turns clockwise then recheck marks ok /re align ? then re assemble crank pully bolt torque is 140 -150 Nm may i just inform you? that your engine is what is known as interferance that is to say in event of c/belt failure there is more than likely valves to piston contact however this can also occure too if miss timed belt fitted and engine has tried to start ? a compression test on cylinders will confirm if this has happened or not ? hope this helps
SOURCE: Replacing the cylinder head on
Here's what the shop manual states:
30 Nm (300 kg.cm, 22 lb.ft)+90°+Release all bolts + 30
Nm(300kg.cm, 22 lb.ft)+90°
In this instance you don't have a 'Torque to Spec"... you have a "torque to YIELD'
In this specification, initially torque the head bolts to 22 lb ft... then turn each and additional 90°, then loosen each and REDO to the same specification = 22 lb.ft)+90° (you're actually crushing the head gasket TWICE and stretching the head bolts TWICE.
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