Just replaced the clutch and now the transmission won't shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear. Work previously.
If it worked before why a new clutch,,,(context wins, here/??????)
ok, so you the clutch is failing,
you never posted the symtoms, not really
does car start in gear with clutch depresses, or start to move
does car take off in 1st ?
or is it just moving fast issues>????
cant up shift, cant down shift
hard to shift. (blocks)
grinds.
my wild guess, based on no input is the clutch linkage,
was never adjustED
the side kicks (not sport 1.8L) all have
cable clutches, and the 1 inch rule stated here.
i bet you didnt adjust it or the linkage splines are damaged.
or the pedal is cracked , caused by bad cable.
always replace the cable first. is it breaks other things if not.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html
tell the full story and get ,very accurate tests to do,
and inspections.
SOURCE: I HAVE A SLIGHT PURRING SOUND FROM THE ENGINE...
This would be most likely the first noise of a wearing input shaft bearing. It will only get louder, and eventual failure of the bearing will probably mean catastrophic gearbox failure. It stops when you put your foot on the clutch because the gearbox stops spinning then, and it is quiet in 4th and 5th because there is no side loading (as there is in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd) on the failing bearing. It wouldn't matter what sort of car it was, the gearbox should be overhauled as soon as possible.
SOURCE: 1987 Suzuki Samurai Clutch problem.
The last time this happened to me, the clutch cable had worn through the out cable housing and had to be replaced.
SOURCE: it all started when i
check the detent balls in the gear box also check simple things like mounts and clutch adjustment
SOURCE: Transfer gear case shift jammed
There are four probable causes when the gear is stuck in one position, and they are precisely explained in this handy diagnostic article that I know will help narrow down the culprit of your difficulty:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Vehicle_Car_Zone_Cars_Trucks_Vans_Transmission_System_Stuck_In_One_Gear.htm
Good luck!
Brad
SOURCE: Shifitng gear is hard from 1st to 2nd
Go to an autoparts store and have them pull the code. If no codes found, then your sensors are fine. most likely the transmission solenoid is going bad. It will start as a gradual hard shift from 1st to 2nd and get worse. The solenoid costs about $50 you will also need a $14 filter and pan-gasket kit, and a $7 tube of red high temp rtv. and several quarts of marcon IV transmission fluidYou will have to drop the pan, unplug the bad solenoid and replace with the new one. Be carefull not to break the plastic valve. Replace the filter, reseal the gasket, close it up and refill the transmission fluid.
If you don't replace the solenoid, you can get up to 2000 miles before it completely goes bad. At that point you will not be able to shift at all (out of first)
If you don't want to rebuild transmission on your own, most garages charge $300 to $600 to fix this.
---------------code p0732----------------------------------------------
If you get any codes ending 731 trhough 735, then your transmission is slipping. These codes are saying "invalid gear ratio" meaning that you have too many rpm's detected at shift into overdrive. In this case, you will need to adjust the Overdrive band. Ford recommends an adjustment every 15,000 miles. I don't know how much it would cost, because it only takes a few minutes to tighen the bolt yourself.
1) Get an 8-sided 5/16's socket , a 16mm combo wrench and a 10 feet pound (120 inch pound) torque wrench.
2)The lock nut is on a square shank bolt sticking out on the driver's side between the bell housing and shifter. There will be a second one toward the back of the transmission for the high gears. you want to adjust the one closest to the bell housing.
3)Loosen the lock nut with the 16mm wrench. the 8-sided 5/16's socket will fit on the square shank. Tighten the sqare shanked bolt to 10 ft lbs (120 inch pounds) Then back it off 2 turns. (This will allow the OD drum to spin when not engaged).
4) Hold the square shanked bolt from turning with the socket wrench while tightening the lock nut with the 16mm wrench.
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