Question about 2006 Ford Escape

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What would make my four wheel drive not work on my 2006 ford escape?

The indicator shows the 4x4 is working but it really isn't what can cause this

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Sounds like one of the ABS tone wheels has broken. Any one of them that does not function properly will cause the 4 wheel drive to quit working. There should be an ABS fault code that triggers a dash light but perhaps not in this case. Inspect each wheel end tone wheel and if you can turn any of them without rotating the hub/ tire assembly you have found the issue

Posted on Aug 29, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: front wheel bearing 2004 escape 4x4

It's nearly impossible unless you have a good air compressor and a powerful 1/2" or larger drive impact gun.The reason is you have to remove the cv axle nut and axle out of the way before removing the bearing and hub.The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove.The procedure is:Jack vehicle safely off the ground,remove wheel and tire.Remove axle retaining nut.Remove balljoint nut and bolt,pry down on lower control arm,and disengage balljoint and lower arm from spindle.Now the axle can be released from the hub,but leave the other end of the axle in the trans,just set off to the side out of the way.At this point,there are two ways to change the bearing.The wheel bearing is a double roller,cartridge type with the hub containg the wheel studs,pressed into the bearing.Remove the entire spindle assembly from the suspension strut,OR leave the spindle attached to the strut,and remove the bearing and hub from the spindle.Some guys swear by taking the spindle to a press,and pressing the bearing assembly out with a bottle jack.I just use a bushing driver set,and ball peen hammer,and remove the hub from the bearing...then remove the snap ring retaing the bearing in the spindle,then drive the bearing out of the spindle with the hammer and drivers.There you have it.Reverse procedure for reassembly

Posted on Jul 11, 2008

Anonymous

  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: four wheel drive

The transfer case has a motor mounted on the exterior of the transfer case,and they do go bad.There is also a transfer case controller (computer) that is part of the Body Control Module (BCM) and i have seen where a malfunctioning "door" open or closed sensor would cause the transfer case controller to inhibit,or,not allow 4WD engagement.Long story short is,scan the vehicle computers for trouble codes,including the BCM,and repair any codes present.If codes are repaired and still no 4WD,test the electric motor that is mounted on the transfer case.When all external controls are operational and tested as operational,the last conclusion would be an internal transfer case malfunction,but as a last resort.This is why it is important to verify and/or repair all external controls,inputs,and commands.The particular transfer case in your Ford has an aluminum case half that is prone to wear,and i shim out the excessive end play as part of the rebuild,so overhauling it in your garage does require more than meets the eye.Good luck.

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1999 ford ranger 4x4 no 4 wheel drive

solenoid on back of transfer case is defective or no power to it /12 volts

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

Anonymous

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: 4x4 wont engage

thier is a shift fork in the front differential that engages the front axles. this is commonly broke.

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

sscullys

Steve S

  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Ford F-150 4x4: Electronic four wheel drive

Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground.
Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case.
If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.

There are the two lines that operate the diaphragm on the axle. Facing the truck, the right solenoid (pink & black lines) is activated to disconnect the axle and go back into 2WD. The left solenoid (blue & white lines) lock the axle into 4WD

you'll have to get a vacuum source like a Mighty-Vac hand pump and apply vacuum to the pink and blue lines, one at a time. If one leaks down you'll have to check the line, including the diaphragm, to locate the leak. If vacuum was held, reconnect the bottom half of the line "connector" (black & white lines) to the solenoids and crank the truck. Switching from 2WD to 4WD and back verify each time that there is vacuum on the top nipple of the activated solenoid. If you're in 2WD the right solenoid (pink/black) should be sucking, in 4WD the left (blue/white) should be. If these operate as described then you axle shift fork may be bad. If you're not getting vacuum when you should be, replace the solenoid.

The Vacuum shift motor ( item #10 in the diagram )
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Close up :
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Vacuum shift solenoids

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The other source of the vacuum leak ( if the lines to the solenoid test good ) is the vacuum box behind the battery.

Posted on Oct 23, 2010

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What I am going to suggest will require a little research. You can get a wiring diagram by using the Web and entering a search for your year and model vehicle, wiring diagrams and then select correct diagrams from the search result.

Most fuses are behind a panel on the passengers side of the floor console. There may be Relays inside a Powerbox for the 4x4 module. Check to see if there are any Vacuum lines going to the 4x4 unit as some systems use both electric and vacuum to make things work. If you have a Rotary shaped 4x4 shifter, sometimes the knob splits behind the junction where the knob fits on the shaft. It is just spinning and not turning the shaft to really work. For Vacuum, use a Vacuum pump or inhale through the vacuum line to see if any vacuum escapes to check for bad lines or a ruptured diaphram.

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