How can i remove a rusty screw

Tail lamps can cause big problems if the earth lead for the unit is corroded (dirty earth). Remove whole unit and check/replace earth cables (usually black in colour) and clean any screw connections that are rusty.

If all fuses are good, it's possible that the headlight switch itself has failed or become rusty, or that the dash light dimmer has become dirty or rusty. Try some WD-40 on the headlight switch contacts, and same with the dash light dimmer wheel mechanism. Best of luck to you!

HI, You might find that this is a sealed beam headlight, (so you will need a whole new light) or if you were referring to the indicator light, you will need to remove the light housing to get to the bulb.
1, pop the bonnet
2, remove the front Grill... [ should be about 4 screws, one in each corner [if rusty spray with CRC first],] you might find there is a small plastic square toggle/head, this needs turning to allow the grill to come out, also at the bottom there are plastic locators so pull grill from top out slightly and then up.
will help if you use the right tools so take your time to find the right screw driver that fits properly.
All the best Ian

Chipping away at the bolt faces with a screw driver might help. Use '6 face' impact driver sockets only, the 12 corner sockets will round the bolt corners off. Select an open spanner of the correct size and hammer it mildly from the side onto the bolt head. The spanner will chisel the rust off. Spray with WD40 as this helps release the rust. Try each third of the bolt in turn and wire brush it right down to the base. chisel everything off with a small screw driver and light taps with a hammer. Strike the bolt head full on hard with the ball end of a ball pein hammer. Next see if an impact socket next down a size can be hammered on - corrosion can reduce bolt head dimensions; I've experienced many 15mm bolt reduces to a perfect 14mm fit. Use a breaker bar in the socket and make sure the socket is jammed on deeply as it can be. Try tightening the bolt just a degree before trying to release it. If it still resists remove the socket and apply heat to the bolt head with a concentrated blow torch or acetylene flame - the bolt lengthens through thermal expansion and breaks much of the corrosion on the threads. Furthermore, very hot metal has much lower friction than cold metal. If you strip the head you will need to use a grinder to create new parallel faces to put a spanner or self gripping wrench on. Many times the heat generated by this grinding process is enough to allow the spanner to remove the modified bolt easily. If still no joy grind a flat top to the bolt, drill it and fit a bolt extractor into the drill hole. Never accept defeat from a seized bolt, persistence pays off. The worst job I ever did of this type was to try and bleed fluid from rusty brake calipers. The bleed nipple just tore off. I drilled what I could and inserted a bolt extractor and the bolt extractor sheared right off. Hardened steel drills just glanced off the imbedded hardened extractor. I used a Dremel with a chain saw sharpening grinding tool and ground out the extractor's tip. Then, like a dentist doing a filling on tooth, I played the grinding tip around in concentric circles until I could see the rusty outline of the bolt threads of the bleed screw in the caliper. I picked the coil like remnants of the bleed screw from the wall of the caliper and bit by bit cleared the whole thing. " Failure is not an option" go to it!

open the trunk and on the inside of yout trunk lid you will see a gray plastic socket for each light.

push in and turn the socket counter clockwise. when you feel it come loose remove it from trunk lid.

if the black rubber ring does not come off with the socket pull it off and put it on the socket so you can see where to line up the holes when you re insert the socket.

pull out the old light bulb and insert the new one.

line up the notches on the socket with the holes on the trunk lid and re insert the socket.

push in and turn clockwise to lock into place.

note: be sure to wear gloves when doing this. there are screws coming through the inside of the trunk that hold the light cover onto the outside of the trunk. the points of these screws are on both sides of the socket that holds the light bulb. since these are older cars it is likely that these screws are rusty. wearing gloves will keep you from cutting your hand on a rusty screw if you happen to slip when trying to turn the socket.

Very easy job. Just remove the 4 screws that hold the plastic head light frame. Then remove the screws that hold the metal frame that holds the head light in place. Make sure that you DO NOT move the head light adjusting screws.
Hope this helps.

I just did this. It isn't as easy as the headlight but can be done.

1. Go get the bulb. I think it's a 168 but check the owner's manual. At the back, the replacement bulb is listed. Ace sells them or Napa. You will have enough torn apart that you can't drive to get one after you start.

2. Remove the small portion of wheel well/ bumper in front of the front tire. I did the right side but I'm sure the driver side is the same. This piece is about one foot square. It has 3 phillips head screws and one 10mm bolt attached to a support rod. I would use some WD40 first on the bolt because I snapped mine as it was rusty.

3. With the hood up, remove both screws attaching the headlight shroud. One is on the top, ( easy) and the other is underneath. You will need a stubby phillips head to get it but you can now reach it will the wheel well portion gone. There is also a clip towards the radiator that has to be unhooked. I just pressed on it with a long screw driver and the shroud will then come off. You can then gently pull it out from under the head light by pressing down on the grill portion under the light and pulling outward.

4. Now remove the two 10 mm bolts holding the headlight assembly. One is toward the side of the car on top and the other is between the light and the radiator.

5. Now you have to remove some of the clips holding the grill. Not that fun. They turn with a flat head screw driver. I removed four across the top ( all the way to other end of the radiator). And the one underneath that is closest to the side of the car. They have square heads but when installed are 1/4 turned to lock them in place. Turn them until they are squared with the hole and the grill will loosen. Once the side you are working on is loosened, the headlight assembly will pivot down towards the ground and you can access the parking light socket.

6. Turn the socket to remove it and then pull the bulb straight out. It doesn't turn. It just comes straight out but kinda hard. I gripped mine with some duct tape.

7. Install new bulb. Don't touch it with your fingers. Use a paper towel or something. Put the socket back in and lock it by turning it. Turn on lights and make sure it works.

8. Now fold the headlight back up and loosely tighten the two 10 mm bolts.

9. Now to get the clips back in. Remove them from the slot in the frame they fit in and reload them from behind by pushing the square heads back through grill and turning until the square looks like a diamond. (This isn't easy. Especially the lower one where you are reaching under the bumper.) Some of them I put in place(square) and then pushed hard against the frame where the radiator attaches to get them to poke through and then turned them to lock them( now diamond looking). The ears may protrude over so squeeze them back down and they will snap into place. Now use your long flat head screw driver to push them all back through their receiver holes. They will snap into place. Tighten the headlight assembly bolts.

10. Replace headlight shroud. (It went in pretty easy) Re-attach the two screws.

11. Now replace the wheel well portion you removed and you're done.

Hi if you open the bonnet and stand in front of the head light there will be one screw on the top of the head light once removed (to make sure that it is the right screw it is about 3 inches in length) and then you have to pull quite hard on the head light to remove it, once out remove electrical connectors.

You must first remove the Headlamp bezel which is the chrome trim that surrounds the duel headlamp housing. The chrome trim surround is mounted to the Headlamp mount panel with three nuts which you can only access on the inside. Pop open the hood and look on the inside near were the headlamp bulbs are. You will see the three mount nuts for the headlamp bezel. Might be rusty so first give it a shot of WD40 or similar. Remove the nuts and then you can lift the headlamp bezel from the outside away from the headlamp bulbs. The headlamp bezel only has tabs that slid into a slot on the bottom so you can lift out once the top three nuts are removed. Once the headlamp bezel has been removed you can then access the 4 screws that hold the headlamp trim ring in place which is what holds the headlamp bulb in place. There are several other screws that in the same area but they are only for adjustment of the headlamp bulbs within the housing. Leave them in place. Remove the stainless steel ring that is holding the lamp in place, and then unplug the headlamp from the back and replace the headlamp. Should take you less than 5 or 10 minutes. Dan

one of the bulbs has abroken filament and it connects to the other filament causin this concern replace lr brake light bulb and it will be fine