Brake lamp light is on, also battery light is lit

is the driver left side as in USA? (LHD or RHD)?
educated means too we read the service manual (SM)
and the page on rear lamps. Schematics, or we just fiddle about and guess.
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp


fuses all good, we check them all.
the problem #1 is on BCM cars, no 2 BCM work the same
so again the SM comes to our rescue.
BCM is body brain and runs all lamp, in odd ways, you don't know yet.
answering for only USA cars, LHD.
brake lamps are rear amps 2 or 3 total

that socket burnup (where) is signs of dead shorted lamp.
needs new lamp first and new socket 2nd.
the IPS runs all 3 rear stop lamps left, center and right.
facts, Schematic on my screen
all 3 lamps use the same single wire to glow. branks
but not ground
left uses GF04 ground wire to body.
GF04 ground runs the other 2 lamps.
so the only failure here is left lamp

• the lamp bad
• the wire bad (or socket0
• or the ground bad GF04

2 man job, step brake, 2nd man meter in hand.
a voltmeter tells you which one is bad.
step on brake pedal 12vdc here, all 3 on that 1 wire.
ground reads 0v.
yes ,yes, then lamp is bad.


meter black test wire must be to perfect metal ground for tests.
max ground volts is 0.5vdc max.but 0 is goal.
the lamp shorted I guess and burned up parts related.

This lamp can come on for a variety of reasons,one simple one that you can check for yourself is the brake lights.If bulbs are blown it will illuminate the lamp,a faulty brake light switch can also cause it to come on

try pulling battery for ten minutes or so and see if that clears any of the codes if not use a obd11 code reader and that should give you a correct answer

lamp failure light on possible because the SECOND filament in your STOP/TAIL Light Bulb is burned out- change one side and check fail lamp again- repeat on other side- fail lamp works off of resistance-burned or blown bulb is only way it lights unless you have a wiring issue

Check the voltage at the battery with engine on and engine off. maybe your regulator is allowing too much voltage and burning things up. These are all on different circuits. Have the car scanned to extract trouble codes. Autozone does free scans. Report the codes back to us if you need help troubleshooting. Check the brake light relay right away, as that is a safety issue. This post talks about checking relays: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6022358-relay_check

the problem is most likely in the alternator or possably the voltage regulator of the alternator, it is an easy test to run and is done for free at most automotive stores, when the alternator is cold there may be commontator and brush contact issues. the test when it is cold is you can put a voltage testor on the battery and have the scar started cold. the voltage should not drop below 10v f it does have the battery load tested. as soon as the car starts then see if the voltage is around 14.3 or so, if it is below 14 then the alternator or regulator are bad. if it is jumping all over like ya know 12, 15, 7, 14 then the regulator is bad. have them double checked and replaced.

did you check the bulbs?

Alternator not charging by if all lamps are lit

Probably a bad grounding, causing the current to go other ways than intended i.e through other lamps. Check for corroded lamp sockets or bad ground connections in the tail light assembly, also check the lamps so they are ok.

Good luck!

you can remove the cluster and buy the bulb separate as far as the brake light it is either the float is bad in the master cyl. or you have low frt brake pads