I have no spark in the coilpack and n spark in the spark plug wire as well

Attached is a diagram of where the plugs and coilpacks are located, you need to remove the air intake resonator box to access this area. Plugs should be changed around 100K miles. Use only AC Delco 41-103 Iridium plugs. #1 is the coilpack and #5 is the spark plug

Check this SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT - REMOVAL PROCEDURE



1. Remove the ignition coils (lines at end this document), then return here once you have gotten the Coil
Packs off and precede with step 2 from here.
2. Clean the spark plug recesses with low pressure air. CAUTION: Wear safety glasses
when using compressed air, as flying dirt particles may cause eye injury. NOTE:
Clean the spark plug recess area before removing the spark plug. Failure to do so could
result in engine damage because of dirt or foreign material entering the cylinder head, or
by the contamination of the cylinder head threads. The contaminated threads may prevent
the proper seating of the new plug. Use a thread chaser to clean the threads of any
contamination.
3. Remove the spark plugs from the cylinder head. NOTE: Allow the engine to cool before
removing the spark plugs. Attempting to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine may
cause the plug threads to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.
4. Inspect the spark plugs.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE



1. Measure the spark plug gap on the spark plugs to be installed. Compare the measurement
to the gap specifications. NOTE:
• Use only the spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle. Do not install spark
plugs that are either hotter or colder than those specified for the vehicle. Installing
spark plugs of another type can severely damage the engine.
• Check the gap of all new and reconditioned spark plugs before installation. The
pre-set gaps may have changed during handling. Use a round feeler gage to ensure
an accurate check. Installing the spark plugs with the wrong gap can cause poor
engine performance and may even damage the engine.
2. Install the spark plugs to the cylinder head. NOTE:
• Be sure that the spark plug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and the spark
plug is fully seated. Use a thread chaser, if necessary, to clean threads in the
cylinder head. Cross-threading or failing to fully seat the spark plug can cause
overheating of the plug, exhaust blow-by, or thread damage.
• Refer to Component Fastener Tightening Notice in Service Precautions.
Tighten the spark plugs to 18 N.m (13 lb ft).
3. Install the ignition coils.

IGNITION COIL(S) REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the air cleaner resonator and outlet duct.
2. Disconnect the engine wiring harness electrical connector (1) from the oil pressure sensor (2).
3. Disconnect the engine wiring harness retainers (1) from the power steering pump (2).
4. Disconnect the engine wiring harness electrical connectors (1, 4) from the following:
• The exhaust camshaft position (CMP) sensor (5)
• The camshaft position (CMP) actuator solenoid valve (6)
5. Disconnect the engine wiring harness retainer (2) from the camshaft cover (3).
6. Disconnect the engine wiring harness electrical connectors from the following:
• The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor (1)
• The fuel injector harness (2)
• The ignition coils (4)
• The heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) (5)
7. Disconnect the engine wiring harness electrical connector from the intake camshaft position (CMP) sensor.
8. Carefully disengage the engine wiring harness conduit from the camshaft cover, and position aside.
9. Remove the ignition coil bolts.
10. Remove the ignition coils from the camshaft cover.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the ignition coils into the camshaft cover. IMPORTANT: Ensure the ignition coil seals are properly seated to the camshaft cover.
2. Install the ignition coil bolts. NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. Tighten the ignition coil bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
3. Attach the engine wiring harness conduit to the camshaft cover.
4. Connect the engine wiring harness electrical connector to the intake CMP sensor.
5. Connect the engine wiring harness electrical connectors to the following:
• The ECT sensor (1)
• The fuel injector harness (2)
• The ignition coils (4)
• The HO2S (5)
6. Connect the engine wiring harness electrical connectors (1, 4) to the following:
• The exhaust CMP sensor (5)
• The CMP actuator solenoid valve (6)
7. Connect the engine wiring harness retainer (2) to the camshaft cover (3).
8. Connect the engine wiring harness retainers (1) to the power steering pump (2).
9. Connect the engine wiring harness electrical connector (1) to the oil pressure sensor (2).
10. Install the air cleaner resonator and outlet duct.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

EASY WAY TO REMOVE REAR PLUGS REMOVE THE COIL PACK ASSEMBLY BUT NUMBER EACH PLUG WIRE ON COILPACK. SO YOU CAN PUT PLUGS WIRES BACK IN CORRECT ORDER.YOU CAN USE A MECHANIC MIRROR IT WILL HELP YOU LOCATE SPARK PLUG.

all spark plugs on ANY engine will be screwed into the head, they might be burried under a cover, easiest way to find them is to follow the ignition wires from the distributor (older models) or coilpacks (newer models), ALL spark plugs are either a 13/16" or a 5/8" deep socket. they screw in clockwise and screw out counter clockwise, to remove the ignition wire from the spark plug just grab it firmly by the boot and pull gently but firmly as you do not want to break the connector inside the boot off the wire, they are a pain in the *** to reattach. when you are done push the connector back onto the plug until you feel it "click", and it will be a noticable click, depending on the brand of wire you might even hear a faint click.

Check the coil pack. they are common to fail and the engine will usually misfire for a while and then not start when it gets cold out. you can do a quick check by removing one plug wire at a time and having someone crank the engine. the spark should jump right down the tower the wire goes onto to the base of the coilpack. if this does not happen then you need to replace the coilpack first. take the 6 tork head screws out and remove the wiring under it that goes to the module. carefull not to mix up the wires under the coilpack or to the spark plugs. reinstall the coilpack and reinstall the plug wires and try to start the engine. i will look for a response incase you need more help. good luck.

make sure you are getting spark through the sparkplug wires. a sparkplug tester is the easiest way, or take a wire off one of the plugs try starting it and have another person watch the wire to see if a spark is coming off the wire to the sparkplugNOTE set the wire close to the sparkplug but leave a small gap between plug and wire so you can see the sparks. if not getting spark check all fuses first, otherwise the coil could be bad. or it could have coilpacks and one could be badNOTE every coilpack has two studs for wire, sometimes only one side of coilpack works if so it is bad both sides haft to work.

Before you go checking parts that aren't there, unplug each coilpack connector one at a time with the engine running. After unplugging a coilpack you should hear the idle drop. If you unplug a connector and there is no change in idle, that is your problem cylinder. You can then check to see if there is spark by removing the coilpack and touching it to a ground on the engine, you'll hear it click. If you have spark, check the spark plug, if the spark plug is good, it's most likely a bad fuel injector. You can verify a bad injector by doing a resistance test after removing the connector. Injector replacement is a nightmare on these cars, but it can be done without pulling the plenum if you're mechanically inclined. Visit www.zcar.com for more help.

Remove the intake baffle if equipped (5 10mm screws), then remove the coilpacks/wires (10mm bolts), then remove sparkplugs (use 5/8" socket)

I think that the coil packs has installed wrong because you said that the problem started when you replaced them... so i think you should re-install.

Hi

If this is an electronic EGR valve which is opened and closed by the PCM, then it may simply have to relearn the fully closed setting for idle, and it can sometimes be done by switching off the ignition, disconnecting the wiring plug from the EGR valve, and then resetting the fault codes with a scanner.

Now here's the important bit, the very second the scanner tells you the fault codes are cleared, quickly switch off the ignition. This will prevent the PCM from setting another code.

You can then reconnect the EGR valve and hopefully the lesson will be steadfast in the PCMs memory!

As for the cylinder 5 misfire, if it is still misfiring then you need to check for spark, fuel, and compression in that cylinder.

Run the engine for a minute and then whip out the no.5 spark plug. Is it dry or covered in fuel? If its covered in fuel then you have a spark problem, and if its dry then you have a fuel problem.

If its a spark problem and the plugs each have their own coilpack, then it is very highly likely the coilpack at fault, and in which case it is best to fit a new plug as well as a coilpack.

If its a fuel problem then it is very highly likely the injector at fault but you should check for a supply and earth pulse at the injector before condemning it, because sometimes the injector loom becomes crimped and damaged.

It could be a compression problem, but I doubt it, however, just to be safe you may want to carry out a compression test on that cylinder before throwing parts at it.

An easy way of determinig injector and coilpack faults is to move the suspect part onto another cylinder and see if the fault code follows it. If it does then you know that component is faulty.

Regards

Geordie