Carburetor diagrams deni pd24jh

Look for a vacuum leak around the inlet manifold , also check rubber vacuum lines for leaks.

not important, what's important is that they are absolutely clean, including the four brass high speed jets located in the bottom center portion of the carburetor.

That model engine's carburetors has fixed jets, BUT if the slow speed jets are adjustable, earlier model carburetors have been installed. If so...................

The four adjustable needle valves control the flow of fuel in relation to the set air flow, adjusted as follows (if needed).

(Dual Carb V/4 With 4 (2 each carb) Slow Speed Adjustable N/Valves)
(J. Reeves)

The adjustment procedure of the carburetor slow speed needle valves follows. NOTE... if the needle valves turn too freely, replace the nylon bearing retainer (the nylon item at the front of the carb that the needle valve goes through first) with the newer type RED retainer #315232. If your engine has that weird linkage that connects all four of those needle valves, the newer RED retainers will enable you to discard that linkage. The RED retainers make it impossible for the needle valves to vibrate out of adjustment.

(Carburetor Adjustment - 2 Slow Speed Adjustable Needle Valves, each carburetor)

Initial setting is: All (4) Slow speed valves = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Facing the carburetors, start with the top left needle valve, then the top right valve, then the bottom let valve, then the bottom right valve. It may be necessary to redo these steps to get the adjustments ideally set

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Do not attempt to gradually adjust all four of the valves at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Adjust idle speed screw on the carburetor linkage.

Wide open as in wide open throttle?? You mean the engine is racing? Something is wrong with the throttle controls, or the throttle valve in the carburetor may be sticking open. Look down the carb throat. At its base will be the throttle valves-"butterfly" valves just like the choke valve on top of carb. The throttle valve should be closed at rest, or at idle, or when gas pedal is not moved. Rotate the throttle lever on the carburetor by hand (when gas pedal is pressed down, the throttle is rotated). The throttle valve at the bottom of the carb should open and close with the throttle lever.
If the valve is sticking, spray some carburetor cleaner down it, and spray the outside clean, too. Work the throttle back and forth to make sure it is free to move.
For a high idle, have the carburetor adjusted. Timing should be checked, too-that can cause a high idle, but wouldn't cause it to go wide open.
Let us know what you find. Good luck.

run fault codes and check for temp sensors MAP/MAF sensors.

idle speed control not working. if idle speed too low engine wont stay running.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

it probably the idle position sensor...

I had an 84 Bird. There were 2 places to set the idle. If someone has worked on it or if the first setting fails, it can give you that problem. Check for a loose vacuum line going to a carburetor part. Sometimes putting in a new air filter will cause the vacuum line to fall off.

The next thing to check is an EGR valve that is not closing. This will cause the engine to stall at idle.

Finally, if you need a diagnosis the Autozone or O'reilly auto parts people will scan your car for free. They may be able to sell you a part you can put on yourself to solve the problem.
Good Luck

On older, carbureted engines, cold stalling (and hard starting) is most often due to an automatic choke that is sticking, misadjusted or broken. Cleaning the choke mechanism with aerosol carburetor cleaner may free up the choke allowing it to work properly again. If the choke housing as an electrical heating element, the element may not be receiving voltage when the key is on, or the element may have burned out (check resistance with an ohmmeter).

Other causes of stalling with a carburetor include an idle speed adjustment screw that is set too low (turn screw to increase idle speed rpm). The engine may stall if the idle fuel mixture screw(s) are not adjusted correctly or the idle mixture port(s) are dirty or clogged with fuel varnish deposits (clean the carburetor and readjust the idle mixture screws for smoothest idle). Stalling can also occur is there are vacuum leaks in the carburetor, under the carburetor (bad base gasket), or any vacuum hose connections to the carburetor or intake manifold