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To remove the drum, you simply remove the hub nut in the center of the drum. The bearing will come out with it. I am not positive but if you are working on the passenger side the hub nut may have left hand threads.
Brake Pads should be replaced in pairs, the front will wear faster than the rear so usually the front will need to be replaced more often.
First Here is a list of what you will need. This list mainly applies to disc brakes but I have included a link for how to replace drum brakes with graphic images. All parts can be purchased from an auto parts or hardware store.
New Brake Pads
C-Clamp
Small amount of Brake/Caliper Grease (usually comes in a small packet)
A can of Brake Cleaner
Car-jack and lug wrench
A small bungee cord
Wrench/Socket/Allen Wrench (depending on your car)
A hammer (mainly for drum brakes)
Lossen the lug nuts.
Jack up the vehicle.
Remove the tire from the vehicle.
Use the brake cleaner to spray the brake pads and disc taking care not to spray plastic parts on the vehicle. This is done to partly protect yourself from the brake dust and to also clean everything and help remove rust.
The following steps are for disc brakes, for drum brakes skip to step 15.
Next, remove the caliper bolts, the heads will be located on the inside side of the caliper, the wrench needed will vary base on vehicle make and model.
Slide the caliper and brake pads off of the disc.
Remove the outer brake pad.
The bungee cord may be used to keep the caliper from hanging freely. Do not allow the brake line to be bent or hold the caliper itself.
Use the C-Clamp to slowly depress the inner brake pad as far as it can go. If any brake fluid leaks out of the reservoir, it may need to be replaced once brakes are replaced. Make sure to press the brake pedal several times between each tire having brakes replaced to help keep brake fluid from leaking. Some brake fluid may be siphoned beforehand to prevent loosing any fluid.
If the disc is to be replaced, do so now, spray the new disc with brake cleaner to remove any residue. The disc should be replaced if grooves or chips are found on it, or if it is outside of thickness specifications of the manufacturer.
Grease the caliper bolts.
Put the new brake pads on the caliper and slide the brake pads and caliper back onto the disc and insert the bolts.
Skip to Step 18 for disc brakes.
For drum brakes, use the hammer, brake cleaner, and possibly a pry bar to remove the drum which should slide directly off.
Use the brake cleaner to spray the brake pads and other parts within the drum to clean and prevent dust from being breathed in.
Has the vehicle drum brakes? Has the brake stuck because the vehicle has been parked for a while? If yes, the linings have just stuck to the drum, sometime just reversing the car will be enough to release it. If not remove rear wheels and bang the face of the drum with a hammer, Failing that the drums will have to come off by any means. (Slide hammer). Good Luck
Depress and turn the retainers for the
hold-down springs and pins to remove them from each shoe. Slide the brake shoe assembly--including the
shoes and springs--down so you can disengage the top ends of the shoes
from the cylinder and tilt them to lift them past the retaining plate.
Unhook the lower retracting spring from the
front brake shoe to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom
to remove the adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the
adjuster lever. Remove the front brake shoe.
Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal cutting pliers,
grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it, unhook the cable from
the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake shoe with the lever.
Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by spreading the
retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip and its spring
washer.
Step 4
Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal
cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it,
unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake
shoe with the lever.
Step 5
Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by
spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip
and its spring washer.
Step 3
Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe
to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the
adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever.
Remove the front brake shoe.
Step 4
Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal
cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it,
unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake
shoe with the lever.
Step 2
Slide the brake shoe assembly--including the shoes and
springs--down so you can disengage the top ends of the shoes from the
cylinder and tilt them to lift them past the retaining plate.
Step 3
Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe
to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the
adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever.
Remove the front brake shoe.
Step 4
Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal
cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it,
unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake
shoe with the lever.
Step 5
Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by
spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip
and its spring washer.
Step 2
Slide the brake shoe assembly--including the shoes and
springs--down so you can disengage the top ends of the shoes from the
cylinder and tilt them to lift them past the retaining plate.
Step 3
Unhook the lower retracting spring from the front brake shoe
to disconnect it. Spread the shoes apart at the bottom to remove the
adjusting screw, the screw's retracting spring and the adjuster lever.
Remove the front brake shoe.
Step 4
Pull the parking brake cable spring back with diagonal
cutting pliers, grip the cable with the pliers without cutting it,
unhook the cable from the parking brake lever and remove the rear brake
shoe with the lever.
Step 5
Disconnect the parking brake lever from the rear shoe by
spreading the retaining clip with a screwdriver and removing the clip
and its spring washer.
Exactly that, the brakes locked-up..
What to do to get the drum off: secure the front wheels with blocks, lift the rear axle, take off the wheel, disconnect the brake line to that wheel only, remove the nuts around the middle of drum. remove the two Phillips head screws and put them in the other two holes on the drum, tighten them both a little each at a time and watch the drum slowly slide off. If the blockage puts too much effort on those screws get another ones that can be screwed using a wrench. When the screws go in as far as they can(be careful not to round the holes out), you can use a screw driver to finish prying off the drum, or you can slide hammer it off, You can aid the sliding by pressing on the shoes inward from the moment they are accessible.
Safely jack and support the rear corner of the vehicle and remove the tire/wheel from the car.
The drum *should* slide right off.
If you live in a northern area where rust is an issue, take two 12mm bolts and insert them into the two shallow threaded holes on the front of the drum. Turn them in equal amounts, using plenty of penetrating oil and patience, and the bolts will force the drum off the hub.
Do not rush or skip the penetrating oil, or you will strip the holes out, they are not very stout!
If you have aftermarket drums that do not have the threaded holes or the holes are stripped out, tap the facing area of the drum (where the wheel touches it) with a hammer using moderate pressure, and working in a circle around the face of the drum. This will loosen the rust and aid in removal. Check periodically for outward movement, if it goes a little bit but gets stuck, continue tapping with the hammer. It will take longer than the bolts, but will work with patience.
tap...not the wheel studs,the side face of the drum with 4 lb dead blow mallet which will release the drum from the hub. it takes 3 or 4 strikes to separate the two when its stuck to the hub ,once free it will slide right off.Heat,from a torch applied to to the cast iron drum around the stuck hub will work as well.
Don't listen to the last guy. The drum does not just slide off. You have to remove the axle by removing the eight 5/8" bolts and pulling it out. Inside the hub you will find a ratcheting lock nut. Visible will be 4 slots where a special socket fits. You can buy the socket from a parts store or you can just use a 1/4" punch and slowly hammer to slowly thread the nut off. Drivers side is left hand thread while the passenger side is right hand thread. Remove the nut and the outer bearing will fall out (so catch it before it hits the dirt). Then slide the drum off. While you inside there it is a good idea to replace the axle seal. It's about $30 and an easy change.
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