96 blazer power windows dont work l can make them go up n down with a power probe the whole drivers door is a positive ground ??

What type of vehicle? Does the drivers window work?

It is impossible to answer your question without the YEAR, MAKE, and MODEL of your vehicle.
Oh.. would help if you asked a QUESTION as well.

Look for broken wires leading into the driver's door. Have you already checked for a fuse problem? The windows and locks may be fused, or they may be on a circuit breaker. Sounds like power is not getting to the master switch, or the ground for it is lost. If you have a voltmeter, you can check for power and ground right at the master switch. The switch will have one hot wire to it with the key on, and one ground wire from the switch back into the cabin and then to ground somewhere, probably close by.
Ground a voltmeter or test light, pull the master switch connector apart, turn key on, and probe the connector for one hot wire. If you have it, good. If no power, again check for broken wires at the door. To check the ground wire, put positive lead on the hot wire, and the negative lead into the ground terminal source at the connector. If the ground is good, the meter will show battery voltage, or the testlight will light up. If the ground is lost, you will get nothing on the meter or testlight.

The wiring diagrams for your 2003 GMC Sierra power window circuits are copyrighted material and cannot be posted here. However, I can describe the driver's power window circuit to you.

Battery voltage is provided to the driver's window (master) switch via the ORANGE wire at PIn #2 on the switch connector which comes from the 25 Amp Left Window Circuit breaker located in the fuse block on the left side of the dash.

There is a logic module located inside of the master switch which controls the "Auto Down" feature for the driver's window. When the switch is operated in either the "UP" or "DOWN" position, power and ground is supplied to the window lift motor via the BROWN wire (Pin #1, Connector 2) and the DARK BLUE wire (Pin #3, Connector 2) Thease wires will switch polarity dependin on whether the switch is commanding UP or DOWN.

The schematics show that the ground circuit for the driver's window motor is supplied internally by the driver's window switch module. It is most likely grounded inside the door panel itself - the schematics do not specify. To check for ground, you can test continuity to ground on BOTH the BROWN and the BLUE wires by back-probing them with the switch electrical connector plugged in and the window control switch in the NEUTRAL position. They should both have ground.

When the switch is operated, one will remain ground while the other switches to power.

Is it making any noise at all when you push the button? If it is making noises, then you probably have a broken window regulator. If is is not doing ANYTHING, then you probably have a bad switch or a bad window motor.
You can find out which it is by popping the switch out of the door and checking for power and ground at the switch connector. (back-probe the connector with it still connected to the switch)
The circuits to the driver's door motor are Connector C2 - DARK BLUE Pin "A" and BROWN Pin "E" (C2 is the Long, 8-pin connector)
BOTH of these wires shouldbe GROUND when the switch is in the NEUTRAL position. Then with the ignition switch ON, the BROWN wire will switch from GROUND to POWER when the switch is pushed "DOWN". The DARK BLUE wire will do the same when the switch is pushed "UP".
If these are not doing as described, replace the switch. If they are switching properly, then you need to check for power and ground at the motor connector. - chances are it needs a motor, but you need to check the power and ground just to make sure you do not have a broken wire between the switch and the motor.

Check fuses. if all good, remove door panel , find 2 prong connector pluged into power window motor. Remove plug and connect test light to ground. probe both pins in the plug while pressing up and down on window switch. Pressing down should illuminate the test light on one of the pins, and pressing up on the switch should illuminate the test light while probing the other pin. If they do not i would replace the master switch in the drivers door. If you do have power at the plug then replace the window motor.

Are you aware of the fact that there are door modules ? Controlled electronically !
Power Window Inoperative - Driver Door
2
Operate the driver power window in the UP and DOWN directions.
Does the driver power window operate properly?
YES - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems
NO - Go to Step 3
3
Install a scan tool.
Monitor the Driver Window Status Data parameter in the driver door inputs list.
Does the Driver Window Status Data parameter display an active state?
YES - Go to Step 11
NO - Go to Step 4
4
Monitor the Driver Window Status Data parameter in the driver door module (DDM) inputs list.
Activate the driver power window switch in the up and down positions.
Does the Driver Window Status Data parameter change accordingly?
YES - Go to Step 5
NO - Go to Step 11
5
Connect a test lamp to a good ground.
Backprobe the battery positive voltage circuit at connector C1 cavity D.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
YES - Go to Step 6
NO - Go to Step 13
6
Disconnect the driver power window motor.
Connect a test lamp to a good ground.
Probe the power window motor up control circuit at the power window motor harness connector.
Activate the power window switch to the UP position.
Does the test illuminate?
YES - Go to Step 7
NO - Go to Step 9
7
With the test lamp still connected to a good ground, probe the power window motor down control circuit.
Activate the power window switch to the DOWN position.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
YES - Go to Step 8
NO - Go to Step 10

You probably have a bad door module .

The most common problem with these windstars is a bad control switch or the window motors, you will need to test the window motor when it is not working, the motors have a bad spot on the windings and sometimes will make the connection and other times not depending on where the dead spot lands, the switch is also a problem, the contacts burn and dont make connection at times, but with window or windows not operating remove door panel and test for power at the wires at motor, there are two a power and ground, you will need a test light to check this, hold the window switch down or up, using the test light probe a wire one should be ground the other power,m then when switch is push in other direction the power and ground will switch, to test for ground you will need to hook test light clamp to power, hope the helps. also anther quick test is to hold button up or down depending on the postion of the glass and banging on door panel or if panel removed tap motor and if glass moves then motor is bad. good luck.

remove door panel.. there should be access hole to get to the bolts.

Hi: If other windows work then it can't be FUSE. I would take off the door panel and use a 12 volt test light to see if power is getting to the front passenger door motor (make sure power control switches are attached, key on position). If power... then hot wire the window motor using a 12 volt battery to see if it works. Hook + and - wires from battery directly to the motor, reverse them to make motor go up or down. To remove door panel pop electrical control up for the front and lift out then disconnect plugs. Use 7 MM socket to remove 2 screws under where handle is located. A Phillips screw driver removes the door handle cover. Pull on door panel to pop off, whole process takes under 5 minutes. If motor works and no power to motor from drivers door then there is a broken wire in circuit or the drivers control unit is not working. NEXT... disconnect drivers door control unit and check to see which brass terminals have power (key on position), note them... then put 12 volt power from battery to a terminal from plug that was attached to the passenger door motor, using your test light check drivers door plug to see if there is power to any terminals you DID NOT MARK as having power, if power then you know the circuit is good, do this with both wires from passenger door motor plug. (A circuit tester can be used as well). If continuity then the problem is in the drivers door control unit. If no continuity then a break in the wires to the passenger door, breaks usually occur between the body A pillar and where the wires go to the door as it flexes there every time the door opens or closes. Hope this helps, rate so I know if it is worth my while helping out on here.. thanks...