When starting the truck it misfires and crossfires for about the first 5 miles then begins to run normal. This happens every start up after setting and cooling. I have replaced the crank position sensor, spark plugs and have checked and repaired frayed wiring, but it has not helped.
Sounds like there could be water/moisture condensing somewhere in the ignition system. Check plug wiring and any other ignition system parts you can access. Spray these with water displacing spray and see how this works out. (WD-40 or any similar available brand of spray for this purpose) Check also that you do not have a steam leak or relief under the hood or that the vehicle stands parked over a damp area.
SOURCE: my 2001 3.9 dakota have a misfire condition at cold
My 2001 Dakota now works fine, I took it to a good reliable shop after much frustration. The problem was the crank position sensor in combination with an bad oxygen sensor. This was a very unusual problem with no consistency therefore hard to diagnose. Crank sensor $190.00 cdn oxygen sensor $130.00 cdn $300.00 in troubshooting, repair and diagnostics. Repaired by Gerald at AutoPro in Corner Brook, Newfoundland. Thanks Gerald
SOURCE: P0171 code and P0301 misfire.
I have a similar problem. I'm replacing the fuel pump and might get an aftermarket coil. The coil on my 5.2L Dakota is right behind the radiator on the front right side of the engine. Stupid spot! I'm surprised it hasn't melted!
SOURCE: Check engine light
A multi misfire may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wires, Faulty coil (pack), Faulty oxygen sensor(s), Faulty fuel injector(s), Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages, Faulty camshaft position sensor, Defective computer.
The engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wire, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
Good luck and hope this information helps, keep me posted, be glad to help you get the truck running 100% again. Not sure if your running a K&N air filter, and if you are there may be a flim of oil on the MAF sensor that is making you run lean. You may want to spray down the MAF sensor with a can of MAF cleaner.
SOURCE: Misfire cylinder 5 2000 dodge dakota
when u press the gas pedal to go this opens the throttle valve, the idle speed of your engine is computer controlled, this is done by the ISC (idle speed control) airbypass valve, these parts get full of gunk and then get a stalling problem at or near idle, clean them by doing the following, if u don't understand the instructions seek help from your friend.
, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
SOURCE: MIL indicates cylinder misfire on 1, 3, and 5
Check for
vacuum leaks on intake manifold,
the air tube between the air filter.
intake manifold vacuum hose.
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clean throttle plate with Berryman carburator cleaner
SEE sample picture HERE
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Also remove carbon built up behind the EGR valve and the EGR passage tube.
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Vacuum leak WILL offset the intended 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio.
More un-metered air (leaks) will lean out the fuel mixture.
Use small amount of Berryman carb clearer at potential air leak area will help you identify trouble spot.
At idle,just spray and listen for the RPM surge.
The in-rush of carb clearer will increase the RPM on the motor.
Record the problem spot(s) and address it later.
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EGR carbon built up require 2+ hours to clean from start to finish.
You will need a new EGR base gasket before your start.
Locate and remove the EGR valve after the vehicle is cool down.
Carefully record the connector and vacuum line (for older vehicle) location by drawing an easily to follow diagram.
Remove the EGR valve.
Inspect the location of the carbon built-up inside the valve and the EGR passage tube.
SOAK these areas with WD-40 spary.
You will need a small screwdriver,cloth hanger and lot of newspaper and time to get this cleaning done right.
RE-SOAK the carbon and let it sit for over-night will also help.
One the last round,pass a shop vacuum of the EGR valve and the passage pipe.
Install the new EGR gasket and connectors.
Allow the vehicle to warm up outdoor to burn up any remaining WD-40.
Take it for a test drive.
Please rate my answer if it's useful to you.
Cheers,
Mustgo
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