Check trans light pops up when I put the key in ignition and start the truck up then it goes off and the Rpm rev for a little bit

Most cars do this including the head lights , so the starter and ignition have less drain while starting. not sure if your model does this, If every thing is ok after starting nothing to worry about. If it wont start clean the battery terminals and check charging rate and battery.

Afraid not. Although the light goes out it still may not be charging very little charge will put the light out. the other reason I feel it's the alternator is instead of rpm increasing it should decrease as a properly charging alternator should pull the engine which should decrease the rpm

From what you say Daniel, your kickdown cable need's to be adjusted, here's how :

Down at the pressure lever on the front of the trans, loosen off the cable retaining nuts so there is a little slack in the cable.
then start taking the slack out of the cable a little bit at a time;
Rest a long screwdriver on the end of the pressure lever, holding the screwdriver with one hand start opening the throttle with your other hand.

Just at the point the idle RPM barely rises, the pressure lever should just barely move.

Driving test; Going along a level road at 25 mph light throttle, floor the gas pedal.
The trans should downshift to first gear.

repeat the same drive at 28 mph, floor the gas pedal, the trans only downshifts to second gear.

It sounds like it could be the body control module. Thats the computer that controls everything but the engine and transmission. It could also be the ignition. After you start the car, jiggle the key in the ignition and turn it backwards a tiny bit. Not enough to shut the car off but just enough to check the connection in the ignition switch. Since its not doing it all the time it might take a little bit to find the problem but I will keep helping with what I can until its fixed. Try that and let me know if the check engine lights on.

it has tab on the shift consel pop it out put screw driver down hole it should release it. or another is to turn key from unlock position just a little bit just enough so there is no power going to ignition put in nuetral then start car. you either have a shift lock problem or blown fuse or stop light out.

The issue you describe seems to point to an "Electrical Effect" Most often (in my experience), the CAUSE is seldom discovered and the owner simply lives with it. However, during cold weather, numerous electronic components behave differently (sensors, wiring, connectors & wiring connections, etc.) Was there ever a "Check Engine" light/warning when this happened? If so, find an OBDII (On-Board Diagnostics II) scanner and see what/which code(s) were set/stored in the ECU (Engine Control Unit). If any, this could help you narrow your search/diagnostics time to possibly find the CAUSE. Often/frequently I have found that poor/loose/questionable ground circuits CAUSE a great deal of these kinds of problems (as connections/contacts expand in warm weather (getting larger and tighter) and in cold weather 'shrink' (getting smaller and looser). Best I can offer without actually putting my hands on the vehicle. There are literally dozens of 'GROUND' circuits in a vehicle -- your description points to ESC and Engine RPM -- that's were I'd start. You'll want to get your hands on electrical wiring diagrams/schematics of your vehicle. You can go to WWW.HMASERVICE.COM and register your vehicle (by VIN #). Afterward, you'll have access to shop manuals, Technical Service Bulletins, Wiring Diagrams/Schematics, etc about your vehicle.

Hope this helps.

The cold weather start issue could be caused by a bad coolant temp sensor. But the trans issue should go right back to the shop that rebuilt it

check drive axles. may have busted a CV joint.

if your air filter is blocked then the engine is choking resulting in lower revs check that 1st

the rpm will drop after is starts worming up a bit and it will build pressure be for it drops.