Timing belt 2001 hyundai xg300

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Reasonably straight forward, except radiator has to be removed. Stupid design fault by stupid people.

After you aligned the timing marks and tightened up the tensioner pulley, did you re-check your timing marks? Usually when you tighten the tensioner it will pull the cam and crank out of alignment. Line up the crankshaft first and then check to see where your cam gear is. If it is not lined up, loosen the tensioner and move the cam gear ahead to line it back up. If it doesn't line up perfectly then go AHEAD until the marks line up and put the belt back on. If the gear is on the mark and the belt teeth don't line up, move the gear ahead until you can get the belt on,but no more than a full tooth on the belt. Tighten your tensioner and check again. At most the cam sprocket should only be off about 1/2 tooth from the marks and it should be ahead not behind. Re-align your distributor to #1 and it should start. Hope this helps.

There is no manual adjustment for timing, this is done digitally by using a VAG 1552 scan tool or equivalent. Now if timing mark is all you need just to serve your curiosity then there are a couple.

Set engine to TDC for cylinder #1 by turning the crankshaft until timing mark on flywheel or torque converter aligns with marks on the transmission case.

• Manual Transmission

Confirm that engine is set to TDC for cyl #1 by checking that the timing mark on the flywheel lines up with notch at inspection hole on manual trans.

• Automatic Transmission

Confirm that engine is set to TDC for cyl #1 by checking that the timing mark on torque coverter lines up with the edge of the inspection hole on automatic transmission.

Remove upper toothed belt cover. Once removed, you will see the letters O.T. with an arrow on the upper rear toothed belt guard. Check that mark on camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on toothed belt guard. This brings camshaft to TDC for cyl. #1.

It is unlikely that a belt has skipped a cog, but if that happens your engine will run very rough or not operate at all. You might have other issue in the air metering sensors (MAF) which doesn't take account of temperature. That means whether the engine is cold or holt it will always run rough and definitely activate an MIL.

turn engine to TDC No1 cylinder at this point the cam cog has a hole drilling which should be at 12 o/clock position and alignes with a V notch on the cyl head as you look thro the cam drill/hole and when crank pully is at TDC the cog has a marked tooth which should align with mark on engine approx 12-30 pm position these marks are all clear to see and belt change takes around TWO AND HALF HOURS to do

Here's a photo - remove cap, disconnect connector to bulb, move bulb retainer out of the way & extract bulb - installation of new bulb is in reverse order.
If you want to replace the entire ASSEMBLY, there are three (3) 10mm bolts holding the assy. Remove them, then slide assy forward to access connectors - disconnect them.

Pull the upper cover off, set the engine at top dead center and see if you cams line up to the marks.

My sincere apologies for the severly delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions. I have only been on this site for the past 4-months as a free contributor.

I do not know if you still need this information, however I am answering it - in case you still do.

Click on the following direct Link. It has several Diagrams for your 2001 Hyundai Accent Timing Belt and Marks.

Again my apologies...
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2001/make/hyundai/model/accent/2001_hyundai_accent_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

Timing belt or drive belts??