Why at 40mph the brake pedal is hard to push down but when the car slows up the pedal will work ok then, what causes that?
Bad booster, or vaccumme leak
SOURCE: emergency brake foot pedal not working
Sounds like the cable is stuck also check the catch on the foot pedel
SOURCE: hard brake pedal hear air leaking when pedal pushed
When you press on the brake? Have your brake vacuum assist checked. It,s that bigspaceship looking thing between the brake master cylinder an firewall. good luck and be safe.
SOURCE: Parking Brake problem
2000 S-10: brake functions properly while pedal is held down, but when I remove my foot, the brake is released.
The following is not a repair so much as a solution to the basic problem and I guess it won't pass scrutiny of any state inspection. Nevertheless, this idea may skip around the automatic pedal stop malfunction and buy you some time while a proper part replacement is arranged.
The release cable ends at the ratchet assembly by the pedal and the lever which receives it can be pushed forward before depressing the pedal thereby engaging the stop which will hold the pedal down and keep the brake engaged. There is no click, or catch evident when the release lever is moved forward and it only moves a little bit.
Not the easiest reach from the driver’s seat. Also, the release cable is likely to jump out of its place if you just reach blindly and push.
From what I've read on this site, there are some design issues with the ratchet mechanism that commonly lead to failure of the pedal stop function.
Hopefully this will help those who still want to park on a hill.
SOURCE: my brakes make a hissing noise inside by the pedal
i need a diagram of my brake line system on my 1997 chevy venture
SOURCE: my brakes are hard to push down and it sounds like
This one I can be fairly certain of. It sounds like a rip in the vacuum power brake booster diaphram. Usually you just replace the whole power brake chamber, which includes the diaphram. You have to first remove the 2 bolts holding the master cylinder to the larger booster chamber, but you don't normally have to open any brake lines.
When replacing, make sure the brake pedal rod goes down the center of the new booster, and that there is sufficient clearance or freeplay in the pedal rod when done. (like .1" is all you need)
Should not have to bleed after done.
66 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×