I have a 2003 Lexus Rx 300. It began with a clunking sound when I backed up. I developed a shaking between 25 and 40 miles/hour I took it in for a wheel alignment which it needed but he aslo said i needed a CV rear axil on drivers side replaced. How can I do that I bought the part
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info, repair info, parts info, wiring/electrical/fuse diagrams, error/fault codes, torque specs, PCV,
owner's/service/repair/parts/maintenance manuals etc everything
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SOURCE: Clunk/knock sound coming thru steering column from front wheels.
Sounds like the sway bar stabilizing links are shot.
SOURCE: What is the cost of a 90000 mile service for a lexus RX 300?
$700
timing belt
idler pulley
water pump
timing belt tensioner
valve cam gasket
coolant flush
spark plug
oil change
pcv valve
tranny oil change
differential fluid cahnge
drive belt
upper/lower radiator hose
brake system flush
air filter
good luck,i hope this help pls dont forget to rate me thanks
SOURCE: 2001 lexus ls430. Dead
Sounds as though when your battery died the engine imobiIiser locked down.
YOU MAY HAVE TO HAVE THE CAR TOWED TO A LEXUS DEALER AND HAVE THE MASTER KEY AND OTHERS REPROGRAMMED TO THE IGNITION...BUT
If you have your wallet key as well , try taking all to the airport. HOLD the card to the dash beside the ignition for at least 20 seconds, then try turning the key several times. I haven`t done an LS but the failsafe when a remote fails is to hold the key beside the ignition for at least 20 seconds ....
Also try the lock routine, but I think the issue is in dash..security needing to reboot to your key.
My understanding is that the lock routine re initialises the lock setstings when power is restored
SOURCE: I have a AWD 200 Lexus RX 300 and wanted to know
You don't need to change diff oils very often after first initial stage (usually about 25000km) After that about 80000km capacity should be in manual Probably about a quart each but just fill them up till oil starts running out cause the hole where you put the oil in is the level
SOURCE: what tools do i need
You will need a lug wrench for the wheel, a jack, a jack stand, 14mm socket and ratchet for disconnecting the lower ball joint, a 32mm socket and impact wrench for the axle nut, a dead-blow (no-bounce) hammer to tap axle from steering knuckle, and then there are two options.
Left (driver) side: a pry bar to pop the axle from the differential (pry between diff. housing and axle knuckle. This can be really stuck so don't be afraid to put some power to it!)
Right (pass.) side: snap ring pliers to remove snap ring from carrier mount (rear engine mount houses this carrier bearing), and i think a 14mm socket or wrench to loosen the jam bolt that keeps the bearing outer race from spinning.
Good luck and be safe!!
Nick.
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