2002 Subaru Forester
to get your answer visit the above link
SOURCE: engine timing for a 1998 subaru forester with a 2.5
Since ignition timing is taken care of by the ECU, I guess you are asking about cam timing.
There are several marks to be aligned and if you get them wrong, you may trash your engine so I am only going to suggest you buy a Haynes service manual that has numerous good pix that show you exactly how to avoid killing your engine.
And, unless you have a good-size vice well-mounted, compressing the belt tensioner again is going to give you fits.
The Haynes number you need is 89100 but it is listed only as a manual for the Legacy which uses the same engine but there may be less info that is usable on your '98 forester for which Haynes does not make a specific manual.
The later book that I have, 89101, covers all models from 2000 to 2006.
SOURCE: subaru forester heater
take back to the dealer,hopefully the will find that the blend door cable is off or not adjusted properly
SOURCE: i changed the oil but the change oil light is not
Hello there :
What you can do also is to take the vehical to autozone and have them hook up the handheld diagnostic center to the vehical and they can clear the light and the good thing about this is that it is free
Hope that this is very helpful for you
Best regards michael
SOURCE: changing the bulb in a Subaru headlight
This is not a trivial job. I would recommend you get all four bulbs for
whatever side you are replacing - do them all. The dealer-dude didn't
have the orange turn-signal bulb in stock, and said they don't see too
many replaced. I guess thats probably right since it was about ten
years ago when I last saw someone actually use their turn signal.
So step one - go get 3 (or 4 if you replace turn signal) bulbs. The front marker and side marker are the same bulb type.
Step two - remove the middle grill. The top connectors are visible
and you can use a flat-bladed screw driver to compress the side or top
and jiggle them so they pop loose. One you get the top part of the
grill loose - DO NOT just pull outward - you will break the non-visible
two lower connectors and get to go to the dealer again to get new ones.
Instead, to remove the grill once the top part is loose, PULL UP. These
light gray lower connectors are inbedded in the Head Lamp assembly.
The exterior trim piece is next. The two top black poppers need to
be jimmied up 1/4 inch and then they pull out. The trim piece has 3
additional attachment points that are hidden. About the middle and a
few inches to the outbound side, there are 2. They have an outbound
facing notch, and the trim piece needs to be tapped towards the outward
direction (side of the car) until it is free of them. This piece can
flex a bit - its OK - but don't overdo. The final attachment is at the
outermost corner that is a 1/4" male that plugs into a female fitting -
This can be carefully pulled out and the trim piece is off.
The next part is the Head Lamp Assembly. There are 3 screws which
the owners Manual actually correctly identifies. These come out. And
the assembly is basically loose, but attached by 4 cables going into
the Assembly. The Marker lights and turn signal are easy - just untwist
them. When you reconnect them - they have VERY different slot keys, so
you won't have trouble remembering which is which. The tough one is the
headlamp.
The connector to the bulb has a rubberized cover. You can't see it
while it is in place,but it has the word "PUSH" and two arrows on it
pointing at the sides. You need to press in on the sides, a little
higher than the middle, and disconnect the bulb connector. I had to
gently use channel locks to do this.
When the connector is removed, you can remove the rubber dam
material surrounding the light. It may stick, but this entire thing
will come off, making removal of the bulb a much simpler task.
Once this is removed, you will see a wire latch holding the lamp
in. Squeeze the wire latch (like pinching a clothes pin - kind of) at
the top and it should release the bulb, which can now be simply removed
from the enclosure.
Replacement is the reverse and will be much easier now that you see all the parts that were previously hidden.
SOURCE: Subaru Forester 1999 GLS spark plug gap?
do the plugs yerself, on a turbo model they are awkward but worth saving your money. you need to take out the air box to do that side (off side in uk) get your plug socket 16mm, and fit it in to the plug (after you take off the leads!) then depending on length of your socket you may need an extention, i use the short swivel adaptor thingy!.. and slowly undo, ... gap to 0.7 - 0.8 on a turbo, 0.6 if your running high boost on a modded model, .............the other side (near side in uk) you got to take out the battery and the washer bottle, be careful with the pipework under the bottle and connections. .... there is not alot of room to change plugs on a 16valve subaru....so have a swear box and plasters ready lol....DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!!!.... BECOMES A PROBLEM TO GET A BROKEN PLUG OUT ON THESE!...
I have just started a new club, www.forestercarclub.co.uk and www.forums.forestercarclub.co.uk ... based in uk, needs members to kick start, ask me any questions too. :) also have a page on google sites https://sites.google.com/site/subaruforesterdriverclub/
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