4x4 or FWD version??????
use a ruler,?
why is this hard./?
very old post.
but a ruler always works.
front ?
dorman sells it
shows 35mm
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/615079/01232.oap?year=2007&make=Jeep&model=Compass&vi=1433553&ck=Search_01232_1433553_-1&pt=01232&ppt=C0337
but if savvy , we measure first. as reality wins
nuts can change mid year on any car. during mfg upgrades etc./
the 4x4 shaft is 22mm thread M22.
so is bigger than that.
i guessed 4x4 seems FWD uses same part, you too can look.
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/JEEP/2007/COMPASS/NUT-Mounting-NUT--Hex-Hub-M22x150--NUT--Hex-Hub-Nut-M22x150-DD7--Drive-Hub-Nut-to-Halfshaft--Drive-Hub-to-Front-Halfshaft--Drive-Hub-to-Half-Shaft--Dr/4363610/06503685.html
this page shows 35/36
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Jeep_Liberty/Torque_Specs_%26_Socket_Sizes
why guess? 36 seems most popular but that never wins reality.
Dorman AutoGrade 615 079 Axle Spindle Nut Reilly Auto...
Here 2007 Jeep Compass Dorman...
NUT Mounting 6 31 Fits 2007 JEEP COMPASS Part...
Buy OEM JEEP part 06503685 for 6 31...
Depending on the year, it is either a 32mm or 36mm. Most likely 36mm.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathan_cc888cf971f43e78
i guess they didnt get ruler class, in 5th grade. or only ruler to knuckles in Catholic school. ouch.
dah measure it?
in inches,
then 25.4 x inches = metric nut size.
most cheap DIY socket sets do 22mm max easy
so that leaves 2 choices
measure it.?
or 2 or 3 trips to store.?
i wonder what's less fun.?
i see schools now dont teach math.
in uSA no more dividing.... wow.
but not here, in SA, they tell teach basics.
the 3 R's.
my granddaughter , in P.R.of CALIF, DID NOT
get taught, analog clocks. wow.
yes ,she is RN now, despite public schools.there.
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SOURCE: lookingfor specs,upper and lower ball joints,axle nut,,axle bearing to steering nuckle
So if I understand correctly you are looking for torque specs? you probably won't find them as most of the time shops simply make sure their in and tight. There won't be any specs you probably have found that they say things like 'tighten it up' and 'ensure it's seated properly' in shop manuals and that's all you need to do. Once it's tight those fittings are designed to not come loose again until manually loosened by you.
If you are worried that they will come off by driving or off-roading then put some loctite on the threads ( the blue stuff not red, red never comes off again) adn that will stop any vibrations from working them loose. hope this helps
SOURCE: im workin on an 88
If I'm reading this right, I think you are attempting to remove the front axle and hub bearing? If so, there are three twelve point bolts that go through the knuckle from the backside. Loosen them up and back them out about 1/4" and put a socket you will never use again on each one and hammer on it (move it from one side to another so the bearing comes out straight). If you are working on the right front and there is a vacuum control box on the axle tube, it needs to be removed. Use lots of wd40 around the bearing to help get it out.
Can't remember the axle nut size (somewhere around 1 1/16 or 1 1/4") It is torqued to about 175lbs and is a real bear to get off once it's out unless you know someone that has a 3/4 drive air gun. I generally take it off first using a 5 foot bar over a breaker bar that has no flex joint on it,with the wheel on, center cap removed on the ground.
If I read your post wrong, don't rate my answer...a carrier is the center section (ring gear etc.) so your post is a bit confusing..
SOURCE: im replacing the front hubs
The hub/bearing assembly is mounted to the steering knuckle and is retained by three mounting bolts accessible from the back of the steering knuckle. The hub/bearing unit is not serviceable and must be replaced as an assembly if the bearing or the hub is determined to be defective.
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