1999 Avenger positive cable broke wire runs to fuse box

Not sure about the pink wire but these fuses get their power from the fuse box itself. The fuse box is fed directly from the battery 12V hot signal by a red wire maybe your red wire has turned pink over time. That wire comes from the battery, a jumper post from the battery, the starter wire, or the back of the alternator depending on the model of the GM. i believe your Grand-Am has the fuse box powered directly from the positive post on the battery via the battery cable. The fuse box gets also gets an input from the ignition switch so that when the switch is in the on position the bus bar containing "ignition on" voltage becomes hot with battery voltage. one side of the fuse comes from this voltage bus bar and the other side of the fuse goes to the component.

At the positive battery post, you have a cable with a large and small wire. The large wire goes to the starter relay, the small goes to the fuse box and the key switch. The small wire has a fuseable link between the battery and fuse box.
Do you have power on that wire as it goes into the fuse box ? And are the fuses hot with the key on ?

cut them a little and find the same gauge wire and just splice them back together ive spliced many wires for batteries so trust me this will work.

Have someone try to crank engine over while someone else takes a hammer and tap on center of starter motor if engine starts then the bendix is bad in the starter.Replace starter.

Hi, there should be one big wire and one smaller wire. The big wire goes on the top terminal, and the smaller wire goes on the start terminal (marked with an "S"). Do you have more than 2 wires?

I don't know what type of vehicle, model or year, but it sounds like a blown fusible link. This is not a fuse, but acts like one. They are generally wired in at the starter after the positive cable connection (again I don't know what vehicle). Sometimes they are wired directly off the battery at the positive cable. On the trucks they can be at the firewall R/S relay center. Regardless, most fuse panels, alternators and cooling fans are controlled by a fusible link. By you jumpering the fuse boxes you are just taking place of the blown link. They are usually in-line (mostly large red positive wires. They can be a black bulge in the wire or just covered with black heat shrink. Follow all the leads from the battery and locate them. Test after the fusible link for power (use a test light if availible).

The third wire is shorted out to ground. Remove the positive cable from the battery, remove the third wire from the positive battery cable. Re-attach the battery cable. Whatever doesn't work now is what that third cable powered up. Since you have to replace the third wire anyway this is a good way to determine what the third wire controls.

tap on the starter sounds like what your running into is a starter problem.

It's just an old Chevy starter! On that round starter solenoid, you will see two or three posts. One thick copper post, and one or two small
steel ones. The thick copper post you can't miss. It's about as thick as your little finger. The one, or two, small terminals, (Posts), are the thickness of a ball point pin refill.

You should have the Positive cable that comes down from the battery, connected to the thick post. There should -> also be two or three wires in a small wire loom, that connect to this post. This small wire loom will have a metal round terminal, that has a hole in it, large enough to go over this post. The battery cable goes on first, then this small wire loom terminal. Then a lock washer, and a brass nut.

If you have a solenoid with two small terminals, in the solenoid itself, next to the small posts, you may see -> ST,
and -> R. There should be a single wire, that comes down out of a wiring harness. It will have a round metal terminal end on it, and a hole in it, just large enough to slip over the small post. You want to connect it to the post with -> ST

All that is going on here, is that the solenoid is a magnetic switch.
If it wasn't present, you would have a thick wire, like that battery cable, going up to your ignition key switch. Instead you have a real small wire going to it.

Electricity for other circuits, like the lighting circuit, heat and air circuit, and so on, get their supply from the large solenoid post, also. That's what that two, or three wire, harness is for.

ST stands for Start. This is the Start side of the solenoid. R stands for Resistor. There was a wire used to connect to this small post, and it led up to a resistor mounted on the firewall, of older cars. These cars used a distributor with points in it. A wire went from the resistor over to the distributor.

Your solenoid may not have two small posts. It may just have one, with ST next to it, Or -> S

disconnect power, with dvom ( volt meter) check for continuity in wire that was spliced. possible bad connection.