SOURCE: 1992 Corvette won't start
Disconnect the + wire Coils Take #1 Spark Plug Out Get a helper Use Compression Guage if not Available, Just put your finger over the Spark Plug Hole, have help BUMP the Starter over till You can Feel The Compression at your finger you need #1 at TOP DEAD CENTER on its Compression STROKE Fine tune it by using a STRAW in the Plug Hole to feel the PISTON Move UP To VERY TOP Dead center----------------------------------This is Tricky but don't Loose these Instructions------- If you have the OPTI_SPARK Ignition System My Books show all about it but Nothing on the Timing "MARK" as this is the step I Stoped at Above.. Coil Pack Ignition Will Have a Timing MARK On the Lower Harmonic Balancer. Point Being if Mark is NOT on the Degree Indicator It has JUMPED TIMING<< Surly on a Coil Pack Ignition System BUT
-------- The Opti Spark system if there is NO Timing Mark to Go by I Would Suggest Breaking Down and Letting A DEALER Handle it Unless You Can RULE that it HAS JUMPED TIME------------------------------------------------------------------------I Truly Hope I've shed some Light on Your Delima and this Leads you to a Smooth running Chevy. PLEASE don't forget to Rate Me ------------------------------------P.S. The Opti - Spark System Has A BAD REPUTATION Just FYI
Recall - Opti-Spark Distribtor, Stall/No Start, Code 16
Notes
9227chevy01
Number:
92C11
Section:
6E
Date:
Feb., 1992
Subject:
PRODUCT EMISSION CAMPAIGN 92C11 - Opti-SPARK DISTRIBUTOR
Model and Year:
1992 CHEVROLET CORVETTE W/ LT1 ENGINE
To:
All Chevrolet Dealers
Well, even the early models in 1986 had an onboard computer. It kind of sounds like the ECU or brain is not working properly. For the problems you have, there should be Codes set. But part of the engine controls apparently are causing the following.
The fluctuating idle can be the controls going from rich to lean and then back to rich. Go to Autozone.com and register your car for free and then print out the chassis wiring diagrams and fusebox layout.
You may find a PCM or ECU relay is bad. The water temperature sensor cancels the cold start loop. If the water temp sensor is bad, the car will run rich. Some cars have 2 water sensors, 1 for the dash and a second for the engine management system. You want the engine water temp sensor for the engine controls.
Both the fuel pressure regulator and the MAP sensors can be tested. There is a test tap on the fuel rail for the fuel pressure. The gauges can be borrowed under the Tool loaner programs at big autoparts shops.
You can probably replace the water sensors for a few dollars. Take the MAP in for testing.
After that you probably should weigh the more expensive guesses against hooking the car up to a first class scanner. Autozone, Oreilys, and Advance have free scans. Yours is an older system and their equipment varies much from location to location.
Looking at the price of parts versus wasting gas and drivebility problems, you might get into an accident or have a big tow bill if it stalls.
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