My 95 corvette will crank but not start. I've put a new ignition control module on it and also a coil, it did great for 5-6 days and now it's doing this again. Any idea on what it might be

Have you ever heard of the "mechanics rule" that says if it ain't broke don't fix it? Put the old coil and module back in they're not part of a tuneup because they can last for the life of the vehicle or not lol. I hope this helps. Take Care.

Hello. It seems your Camaro has either a 'loose' timing chain and /or a faulty ignition module. I recommend having the ignition module tested first before moving to more complex process of elimination. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

Sounds like the problem lies in the profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) i.e Crank Sensor or in the Ignition Control Module (ICM), once the ICM gets the PIP signal, it starts to switch the Ignition Coil on, Once the Ignition Coil gets this switching signal, it starts to Spark away, I think you are not getting signal from PIP to ICM to get spark. I did a quick search online and if you do need to replace your Ignition Control Module this site looks like it has cheap prices, free shipping and great reviews http://www.buyautoparts.com/ignition-control-module.html

Need more info...... does it crank but not fire, or doesn't do either? if not fires...... did you replace the coil pack also? (sits right on top of the module) ???

Sounds like the ignition module or magnetic pick up. You need to check for ignition spark.

Learning how to test a GM distributor less ignition system rather then guessing an replacing parts is the proper way to diagnose . Pulling a couple of pull wires of the same coil an having someone crank the engine over to see if there is spark would the first test . If there is no spark ,could be the ignition module , or the crankshaft postion sensor .
GM 3 8L Ignition Control Module And Crank 3X 18X Sensor Test

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.

The ignition module located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

it has a draw, and they will be best equipped to find it. There are more modules on that car than the shuttle. it may take them a while, its warranty right?? its just a process of elimination, removing modules/ components from the "LOOP" until the draw goes away. good luck

check the basics fuel and spark plenty of possibilities ignition module ,fuel pump