Driver side distrib no spark

If you are getting fire from the coil to the distributor but not out of the distributor, it could be caused by a few different issues. Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot and fix the problem:

Check the spark plugs: Make sure that the spark plugs are properly installed and that they are not damaged or fouled.

Check the distributor cap and rotor: The distributor cap and rotor can wear out over time and may need to be replaced. Inspect them for any visible signs of damage or wear and replace if necessary.

Check the ignition wires: The ignition wires may be damaged or loose, causing a loss of spark. Check the wires for any visible signs of damage or loose connections and replace or tighten as needed.

Check the ignition control module: The ignition control module may be faulty, causing a loss of spark. Test the module to see if it is functioning properly or have it replaced if necessary.

Check the fuel system: A malfunctioning fuel system can prevent the engine from starting. Make sure that the fuel pump is working properly and that there is sufficient fuel in the tank.

F700 truck (F) 5.9, 6.6 and 7.0L engine 370 = 6L sure
spark, fire is fuel burning, and is 2nd after spark (order)
buy the service manual to learn all wiring here easy.
so is an old distributor, engine 92' push rod heads.
and stand alone spark coil and this coil spark tested good
well if yes spark is good NOW! that is what that first test proves
and proves safeties are not cutting spark but may cut fuel.
spark not making plugs means the distributor itself is bad.!
or all spark HV wires bad and all plugs 100k old and dead fouled,
EOL that. or
a bad cap ,bad rotor,(or missing rotor or distrib. is not timed ! anywhere near accurate, dizzy mount is loose?
we test all spark plugs for spark not just 1 (all). and the coil too.


if spark is good test fuel now works, (a spray can called instant start)
into air cleaner pipe tunnel.)

watch scotty K, do that easy..

• engine good
• spark good
• spray fuel works for 3 second run, even do it 3 or more times
• so is fuel dead (injectors? (what ever is there IDK))

to hear engines sounds nice not valves bending (LoL)



https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg?t=43

Check the metal end of the spark plug wires on the cap connection. The core of the wire has to make contact with the metal end .

I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then.
I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?

Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.

You have spark on the coil wire but not coming from the cap. You replaced the cap right. Did you replace the rotor too. Sometimes the rotor burn in the center and the spark goes right thru it in to the distributor shaft.

Replace the spark plugs and wires along with a distributor cap and rotor. Be careful to leave the old wires and plug wires connected to dist.cap, just remove dist. cap from the distributor and lay aside with plug wires on it then install rotor then new cap and proceed to replace each wire for cap and spark plug one at a time so you don't mix up the spark plug wire firing order. Cap laying to the side is used for reference purpose.

it could be the rotor arm or dissy cap worn i had the same fault with my rangerover v8 i changed them and it was fine

Recheck the firing order; 1-6-5-4-3-2

On the distributor passenger side radiator to fire wall. 2-4-6-coil
On the distributor drivers side radiator to fire wall. 3-1-5

Cylinder passenger side radiator to fire wall. 2-4-6
Cylinder drivers side radiator to fire wall. 1-3-5

Good luck and also check the distributor cap again for proper seating.

number 1 plug wire should be pointing towards the front drivers corner . drivers side piston order is 1-3-5-7 front to back .passengers side front to back is 2-4-6-8 then the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 . if you pull the # 1 spark plug and put your finger in the hole /remover power wire while doing this at the dist.bump the engine when you feel a rush of air that's the compression stroke when the piston is at the top of it's compression stroke . pop the cap look to make sure the rotor is pointing at the # 1 piston roughly and place cap back on so the # 1 terminal is over the wire end of the rotor contact tip and work clockwise around with the firing order and hope this helps .if it still dont want to run then you may have jumped timing chain or stretched they will jump out of time and cause a headache.

shaft seal in dist is bad may be able to replace might have to replace dist