I really need more info such as...Mileage,did you do the job yourself,if so was the slave cylinder and or clutch master cylinder changed and did you bleed the system..?...So I will explain without knowing,,...Before a clutch wears completely out we find ourselves constantly working the clutch pedal stressing all clutch system components..In most cases I have looked closely and found slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder leaking ..however the slave cylinder can wear out without leaking..Most importantly the fluid itself wears out every 15 to 20,000 miles.. You don't notice but the fluid gets thousands of tiny air bubbles in it and makes the clutch weak and spongy..(Same with brakes)..You should always bleed system with an assistant just as you would a brake system..,This alone will cause the problem you are experiencing...If you already know that and you have bled the clutch system then you know the slave cylinder is at fault..(UNLESS THERE WAS SOME TYPE OF MISALIGNMENT WITH RELEASE BEARING....YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CHANGE RELEASE BEARING WITH FORK WHEN DOING A CLUTCH SERVICE..)...I assume you did...I would inspect for leaks..,Bleed it again if no leaks...If that don't help and no leaks are found change slave cylinder and or master cylinder.....I hope this helps........Brooks/Metalpoet.......
The pedal has no risistance when pressed, it goes all the way down. Its not even sucking any fluid out of master cylinder
It definitlely sound line air in system or the plunger isn't making contact..Did you try bleeding or replacing slave cylinder..as I stated. ?..I know however line hose from master cylinder to slave cylinder could have got kinked accidentally while installing...Remove slave cylinder and pull it to make sure the hose isn't twisted or bent...Inspect plunger rod while it is removed..Also where the cylinder is connected to trans make sure the lever it pushes is not stuck..you should be able to move it slightly by hand meaning see if the bearing will slide at all....sometimes it could be bound up..or possible the clutch disc is in backwards...If all seems good..sometimes the master cylinder will leak inside and you can't tell until it is removed..The clutch pedal also has a plunger that operates the master cylinder..with light look under dash where upper part of clutch pedal connected rod to master cylinder..It may have fell out..or leaking where you can't see..Some pedals have a spring..not sure if this does though..However considering age/mileage If never been changed It might be a good idea to change slave and master cylinder anyway because they could both go bad in future since it has new clutch means the other components will have to work harder which may cause leaks while driving...I think I've covered most areas...Let Me Know..
just replace master and slave cylinder, same problem.... it could be the clutch disc is in backwards???
or the disc 180 degrees off
I just sent you a lot of info...Let me know if you received it..?...We have an interrupting storm in the area....Brooks...
didnt get it
I see you didn't get the info....Maybe it was too much information...So you have eliminated the obvious task of troubleshooting...It isn't a bad thing you have done but rather a good thing considering It needed replacing now rather than while driving down the highway,!!...There are different ways to bleed it....You really need pressure to force fluid from the bottom slave cyl.to the master cyl.they make a special hand pump pressure bleeder that from the bottom up to insure you all the air is out by watching it bubble from the master cyl.with cap off until it is fluid only coming out instead of bubbles...And it's a one man pressure pump bleed kit....However I assume you did it correctly...If you inspected EVERYTHING..ALSO THE PEDAL CONNECTION UNDER DASH..MAKE SURE THERE IS NO PRESSURE SPRING UNHOOKED...The only thing left to do is pull the trans....There is only a front and back to the disc..front should be stamped FLYWHEEL SIDE..There is no top or bottom and no special clock position unless it is a double disc for heavy trucks....It wouldn't make a pedal go straight to the floor with disc in backwards....You would still have pedal pressure but the car wouldn't move if it was backwards...The problem has to be at the fork and bearing..It has to be dis positioned...Pull apart and you should see problem...Bearing should be new !!..Be sure and lightly anti-seize trans input shaft..,make sure fork is not bent..Make sure fork slides bearing smoothly back and forth..Double check disc position..put trans in with two bolts at top and two bolts at bottom...re-connect other components and test pedal before complete assembly...AFTER TRANS IS CONNECTED BE SURE YOU CAN SLIDE FORK AND BEARING ASSEMBLY FREELY BACK AND FORTH...YOU CANT ENGAGE CLUTCH COMPLETELY BY HAND BUT YOU CAN TELL IF IT WILL SLIDE BACK AND FORTH CORRECTLY/FREELY...If all seems good then complete assembly...There should be no reason it can't work..You shouldn't have to bleed again..unless line is broken free...double-check the slave cylinder fluid hose line is not twisted or mis-aligned before slave cylinder is mounted....if it twisted just a tiny bit you won't have a good pedal.....I will actually go over my past notes but If all is done correctly and Important parts are new ALL should be correct....The only thing else could be a new part that is faulty !!!!..I have seen it happen before....I will be waiting for your reply........Brooks / Metal-Poet...
now it has pressure but not enough to dis engage the clutch
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Bent the clutch plate when instaling . the gear box ,you can,t let the gearbox weight hang on the drive plate. Make sure the clutch plate is fitted the correct way round centre springs face towards the pressure plate .
Have you tried bleeding the slave cylinder?
How
It's just like bleeding brakes. someone has to push the clutch to the floor, while you open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. the idea is to get air out of the line and the slave cylinder, so the clutch pedal can move the clutch lever or fork on the bell housing enough to push the release bearing forward. open the bleed valve with an 8 mm wrench, some may take a 10 mm wrench, and when someone pushes the pedal to the floor, brake fluid should shoot out in a good stream, after any air has been pushed out first...see, just like brakes...if fluid doesn't come out in a good stream with just one pump of the clutch pedal to the floor, you may have a bad clutch master cylinder-the seals get old and worn just like brake cylinders. also watch the plunger work on the slave cylinder when the clutch is pressed down. the plunger should extend about a half an inch. the plunger moves the shift fork, the clutch fork lever, which slides the release bearing forward.
just replace master and slave cylinder, same problem.... it could be the clutch disc is in backwards???
just replace master and slave cylinder, same problem.... it could be the clutch disc is in backwards???
Yes, that can happen and act as you describe. Usually, one side of the disc is stamped with "flywheel side". Also make sure the clutch fork or lever is solidly planted on the ball stud it pivots from. This is inside the bell housing.
or the clutch disc upside down off 180
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SOURCE: Check engine & maintenance required lights on
My maintenence required light comes on when it's time to change the oil.
SOURCE: 1993 Honda Accord, needs cruise control on to start
i think that is a anti theft system for your car
to start you have to push the cruise button
other system are wired on the defrost to start car
if the car run ok it is just a anti theft system
SOURCE: ac compressor clutch relay 1991 honda accord
Difficult to describe, but I will give it a try.
Inside the driver's side fender, close to the front of the car, there is a bracket that is held in place by one bolt, but which has a short horizontal bar as part of it which has two large clips encircling two cylinderical devices which have wires clipped into them at the bottoms. The one closest to the front (radiator) is the compressor clutch relay. The other one is the condenser fan relay.
Hope this helps you find it.
SOURCE: car will not shift into overdrive
As a response to solution #1 these cars do have an overdrive while in D-4, mine was shifting in and out at 70 mph until it finally quit and the rpm is now 3100 at 70 mph insted of 2700. The car still shifts 4 full times just not the fifth-OD. I still can't find out what fixes this problem either.
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