Blower motor stays running

The Starter motor can keep running because of a number of things. It receives its power from the large contacts (switch) in the starter solenoid. WHen engaged, this starter sol. allows high current 12 volts to run the starter motor.
A number of things can cause the starter solenoid to stay engaged:
A) stuck starter solenoid mechanicals. probably not the cause
B) more likely a defective start position on the ignition switch in the ignition switch
C) possibly a gummed up ignition key tumbler
I would start troubleshooting with a schematic. Make your own or purchase a service manual. IF you pull off the wire from the switch (in the center console) which actuates the starter solenoid, and the starter motor continues to run, then its not the switch or the key tumbler. its the solenoid.
Troubleshooting is the logical process of elimination.

It may be a bad electrical connection at the motor, the fuse or the relay. It is easiest to start with the fuse. A relay can be weak or worn out and they also easy to replace.

Blower fan relay.

the blower resistor should be your problem

OK, if the relay for the A/C fan is bad, then the radiator's fan will keep running after turning off the ignition. Also, if the fan for ventilation of the A/C in the cabin stays on after the ignition is turned off, the relay for that is bad.

Good luck on this repair.

I had the same problem. It turned out to be the ignition switch. i have no idea how that is connected to the fan but... it worked, got me my fan speeds back, although it is not working again...

JUST REPLACE IT.ITS ABOUT 80.00 NEW AND 60 AT THAT JUNK YARD.

The blower motor control module is shorted internaly. It will have to be replaced.

Your blower resistor is bad. It is mounted under the passenger side dash behind and to the left of the blower motor. These things burn out short out causing the fan to run constantly and then they just fry and shut down the fan. It is a hard little ****** to get to and you need 1/4 inch ratchet, 6 inch extension a 1/4 inch universal joint and a 5 mm shallow socket and lots of patients. LOL

My 2000 century heater blower died,dont replace the fan motor until you check with a simple test light to see if the heater fan resistor is bad first,it's only 20 bucks to replace.Its located next to the fan housing up against the firewall.The wires from the fan switch go down to the resistor, check to see if switch has power then check for power down at the resistor,I'll bet its the resistor.There are three, I think five sixteenth screws to remove the resistor one is crammed up very tight on the firewall,you'll need a quarter inch drive extension with a wobbly socket to get that one against the firewall.