The ?check engine? light came on, what does this mean? Is it serious? i am having a problem passing my California smog test (the car failed the hc portion of the test), is this engine light related? a friend said it could possibly be the cat converter?

The easiest way to reduce HC at idle is to retard the timing a few degrees. You might have to increase the base idle and you will notice power loss, but the settings can be returned once vehicle passes inspection.

It won't pass smog in California because the 1st thing a smog tech does it check for fault codes on the vehicle's computer with a scanner.

as long as you have no check engine light on change oil, air filter. pep boys sells a product called guaranteed to pass add to fuel make sure car is hot when you go back for emission test cold car has high hc levels it also helps to post the hc level you tested at and the limit on your receipt hope this helps

Other than testing the EGR valve, not many options. You really need a 4 gas analyzer to know what is coming out of the tailpipe. Otherwise you won't know if repairs have helped the problem.
When you say EGR numbers I'm not sure what you mean. Most of the time the test is for CO and HC gases, along with oxygen and Nox also in some areas. The EGR valve allows some exhaust gas to be recycled thru the engine and reburned. CO or HC could be high if the EGR system is not working.

About the only thing you can do is take it to a qualified DEQ specialist and have them take a look at it. It might be something as simple as a hose, or not.

The instrument cluster would need to be removed, and yes the bulb test when you turn the key on is part of the smog check.

High HC means moisture in the system. Try driving it longer then take it to the smog shop. Otherwise it could be hard like a head gasket or easy such as a PCV not functioning. Any ways you should always drive it about 20 miles before smog check, longer when the weather is cold.

How well does the vehicle run?

Assuming that the engine did pass the EGR function test on the emission test results, and the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) or check engine light is not on when the engine is running, and if you are not sure when the last time it was that the engine had a complete tune-up, with distributor cap, ignition rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air and fuel filters, then a complete tune-up would certainly help, and if the engine oil and oil filter have not been changed in a while, then they should also be changed before an emission test because long used engine oil traps carbon and it will show up as higher CO on the emission test because the emission analyzer will be able detect the higher CO from the engine oil through the PCV valve.

However, it would seem from those HC readings that there is a vacuum leak, and carefully inspect all of the vacuum lines for any cracks or damage, (especially the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator) because cracks in the vacuum lines seem to like to hide underneath the lines.

The emission label under the hood should have the vacuum line routing diagram printed on it, and the vacuum lines should all be checked to be certain that they are all connected correctly.

Here is the firing order diagram for that vehicle to help assist you tune-up the vehicle.

No this is not right. If you remove the battery everything resets anyways. If they are talking about relearn procedure, it should only require 50 miles. But if the light is on than either they did something wrong, created another problem, or there was already another one existing. Have the code read and let me know what it is. I'm in Ca too and used to prep european cars for smog, so I do know what I'm looking for. How did the rest do? What were the readings(if possible)?

ALOT OF OLDER CARS DO FAIL THAT SMOG TEST. BUT YOU CAN PURCHASE A SMALL BOTTLE OF RXP AT AUTO ZONE OR YOU LOCAL AUTOPARTS STORE AND IT WILL PASS.. THATS IF YOUR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS NOT ON.