SOURCE: Battery going dead 2001 BMW 330i
Whenever a car has this type of a problem, it is normally because of poor connections, belt slippage *severe*, or - very possibly, something is putting an excessive drain on the battery when it is not running.
My experiences have been to first check that ALL the connections are totally clean - especially check your battery posts and make sure they are tight with very good - surface-to-surface contact. Remove BOTH connectors on the posts and clean with battery post cleaning tool *wire brush* and then use the spray that stops / limits corrosion.
Are you sure that battery IS OK? Take it in for a load test - old batteries often deteriorate over time *sealed or not* and it just might be time for a new one. Get the biggest 1 that will fit in where it is held. More amperage *rating* is always better.
Poor connections often happen during cold weather season *expansion and contraction cause this*.
BAck to connections again - VISUALLY inspect ALL your cables/wires for discoloration. Connections need to be tight - end-to-end in the charging system. I am not sure if the car has a starting relay or not - and if so - where it IS located. THAT TOO is a problematic area due to poor connections that quite often, just may need to be cleaned.
Are you sure your alternator IS good --- are it's belt nice and tight- but not too tight? Speaking of the belt ... look on the inside track of the belt - has it been replaced recently or is the rubber in poor shape *splits, showing sign of extreme heat from slipping etc*. When you have a load test - that test alone will indicate whether it IS charging even if everything is running like A/C, radio, light, wipers. Check you gauge inside the car - IF it has one - and no matter what RPM ~ it should still be charging *showing positive charging - NOT discharging*. Lastly - the alternator OUTPUT -- is it the right one for that car - correct rating???
There are even more areas worthwhile checking ... but unless you have the correct tools and diagnostic equipment - it can be tough to nail-down the right specific problem. A lot of places *like Sears* will have that - and used to not charge for the diagnostic - because they wanted to sell you THEIR battery.
One more thing .... most cars will have some minor drain due to clocks running, alarm working and so on. HOWEVER - if a light *like an interior or truck light* remains on, that will give you a larger drain.
A battery should never go dead while driving - and your light *running lights* should always be bright .. are yours??????
Hope this helps!
SOURCE: how to unlock the doors of BMW X5 when batter is
Hope you mean batter"Y" is dead 'cause I wouldn't want the pitcher to be charged. Ha Ha! But seriously call local dealership and see what they would say. I'd image they'll say call a locksmith and they'll use a Slim Jim to open it, but watch they don't scratch your paint.
my cigarette lighter doesn't work in the front or the back...how can i fix this? i need it to charge my cell and GPS...=/
SOURCE: I remplace a new alternator and battery on a BMW x5 2001 it won'
theres an anti-theft system. take positive terminal off battery, have someone holding the key on like trying to start it, then put the terminal back on and that should start it right up (had same problem in my dodge ram) if not, check all you're connections
SOURCE: procedures for removing drive shaft bmw x5
no the spindle stays on the vehicle,this process is not that difficult.start by removing the wheels and 38mm nut at the end of each shaft,then reomve the bolt holding on the front lower control arm from the front sub frame,pressout the shaft through the wheel bearing,now that the end of the shaft is out use a pry bar to pop out the shaft in the oil pan,pull them out and replace, Also you must be aware that removeing the 38mm nut is difficult without a impact gun and it is also a 12 point nut as well you must force out the ends of the drive shaft with a special puller of a air chistle with a point as you are not able to push it through by hand good luck
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