Where is the power control module on my 1996 ss impala

U have an electrical issue. If water pump was failing then how in god's creation could the two fans cool the engine down? Check out the circuitry that controls the normal fan operation and you will take care of the issue. Till you find the problem just hot wire the fan motor with an on/off switch.

Hope this helps your out. I know the diagram and locator is a bit blurry but hopefully it gets what you need.
Drivers kick panel:
Front wiper 20A - Front wiper system Cigar 15A- Cigarette lighter Audio 10A- Audio, remote control mirror Air Bag 10A -Air bag diagnostics Stop lights- 15A -Rear brake light, high mounted stop light ECU B+ 10A - Shift lock actuator, transaxle controle module, radio, engine control module Room 10A - Interior light, clock, ignition key reminder, rear cargo area light switch ABS 10A- Anti lock brake system control unit ECU IG1 10A - Transaxle control module, shift lock actuator, ABS control unit, DRL unit Meter 10A - Instrument panel, back-up switch, electronics time control module, inhibit switch Turn signal 10A- Hazard switch ,front and rear turn lights, turn indicator IGN1 20A - Ignition switch ABS 30A- ABS pump motor TNS 30A- Tail light, license plate light COOL/FAN 30A- Cooling fan Cond/Fan 20A- A/C condenser fan Starter 15A- Start signal , Fuel pump Blower 25A- Blower Motor SR/ACC 10A - Ignition switch Hazard 15A - Hazard and turn signal light D/Lock 25A- Door locks ABS 30A - Anti lock brake system control P/W RH 20A- Power window motor right hand P/W LH 20A- Power window motor left hand IGN2 25A- Ignition Switch
Engine compartment :
Head 25A- headlights IG 2 30A- Ignition switch IG coil 15A -Ignition coil, condenser,generator IC regulator, diagnostic connector. O2 down 10A- Rear O2 sensor O2 up 10A- Front O2 sensor Fuel pump 10A -Fuel pump unit Injector 10A -Fuel injector ,camshaft positioning sensor, purge solenoid valve, EVAP, IAC actuator, Mass Airflow sensor, EGR stepper motor. fuel pump relay coil, vehicle speed sensor. A/Con 10A - A/C compressor controls, cooling fan BTN 30A- Brake light , high mounted stop light. Tail light LH 10A- License plate light, tail light , rear combo light, instrument panel illumination Tail light RH 10A-License plate light, tail light , rear combo light, instrument panel illumination Head low 15A- Headlight Head Hi 15A-Headlight Horn 15A- Horn

Inside kick panel

Your cooling fan relays are controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM). What you are unplugging is probably the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT). The ECM will default to "fans on" if it loses the circuit to the ECT. (It loses it when you unplug it) This is why the fans come on when you unplug the connector. The engine might be overheating because the ECT may be malfunctioning and "lying" to the computer about what the actual engine temperature is. If this is the case, the ECM is not turning the fans on because it doesn't "think" it is hot enough to need them. Then again, you could have a faulty temperature gauge that is making you think the engine is overheating when it is not. (If it is boiling over, then it is OBVIOUSLY overheating and you can just disregard that last statement.)
Anyway, the only way to properly diagnose the cooling system on your vehicle is to access the live engine data and look to see what temperature the ECM is seing while you take an actual reading with an infrared thermometer or a pyrometer and compare the two. Yhe thermometer or prometer reading should be within about 5 degrees of what the ECM "thinks" the temperature is. If there is a larger error than this then the coolant temp sensor should be replaced. If the reading is within this range and the temperatur gauge reads hot when it is not, then the gauge should be replaced.
Since the fans come on when you unplug the sensor, you know that all the fan circuits are working and the ECM is capable of controlling them, so it almost has to be a computer INPUT problem, not an OUTPUT problem.

Hi!!
Make sure the small hose going from the reservoir to the radiator and the orifice at the reservoir are not clogged. If OK, check electric cooling fan system, specifically the Coolant Temp. sensor, Fan Relays and Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM).
Electric cooling fan system consists of a fan and electric motor attached to the fan shroud.

• Engine temperature is monitored by the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.
• Fan is controlled by Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) with inputs from Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

The electric cooling fan is wired to operate only when ignition switch is in ON position and engine temperature exceeds specified temperature, or when A/C is on and vehicle speed is less than 45 MPH. During hard acceleration, the Wide Open Throttle A/C Cut-Off (WAC) relay controls the A/C clutch and cooling fan. A signal is sent to PCM and then to the CCRM, where the module de-energizes the A/C clutch and cooling fan, decreasing engine load during acceleration.
Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa!!

on your car are two sensors one is an engine temp sensor the other is a coolant temp sensor
change the coolant temp sensor that is what goes bad most of the time when the water gets to 210 degrees the coolant temp turns on of that is working change the radiator fan relay

The PCM controls these fans via certain sensor inputs, ( CTS ) and switches ( A/C compressor for instance ). When relays are removed, both relays sockets should show 12v constant ( battery voltage on "switch side" ). When the key is rolled on, there should be 12v appear in two more places, ("Coil side" ) the relays are then operated by a ground signal from the PCM. ( Powertrain Control Module ) You need a scan-tool to check for fan request, by the PCM. A/C compressor request, etc. If you have any DTC's then repairing them may well fix your problem, otherwise, you may have a faulty PCM.

Assuming engine tune / mechanical condition is not the cause of the overheating:-
Ensure cooling fan is cutting in at the appropriate engine temperature - check operation of the fan controlling relay,
Ensure fan switching control temperature sensor is serviceable,
Ensure cooling system is filled properly, taking care to bleed out air where necessary,
Ensure coolant pressure cap is of correct rating and in serviceable condition,
Check coolant hose on suction side of waterpump is not softened and collapsing at engine revs above idle,
Ensure radiator core is not blocked or cooling airflow inhibited by insects etc.

The fan module is the big silver box with fins on it, right next to the fans. Just follow the fan cables and you will find it. Don't jumper the fans without unplugging or you may destroy the power transistors in the fan unit. Check the temperature sensor for the fan control unit - near the front of the engine - it should have some resistance - not be short circuit or open circuit, it is a sensor, not a switch. If short or open, that is likely to be the problem, otherwise, ensure that the control units have electrical supply, otherwise, it is very likely to be the control unit.

thermostat replace temp sensor its cheap i hope your water pump is not bad you could mess engine up if you keep on running car and is overheating.

I am not the most mechanical guy and i did it with out much problem. You can get the fans at alot of car parts houses. i just layed under neith the front bumper and there were only a couple of screws and a connector to plug back in.