I have overhualed my 1.8K series engine taken the crankshaft from std to .10000 now i need to buy cons and big end bearings. Can anyone help with part numbers for the same? Jun 06, 2014

What kind of engine? Modern American engines have thrust washer built into the main bearing, Triumph sports car engines from the 50's had split thrust washers that took up the excessive end play. Manufactures give the specs on how much end play is acceptable for a particular engine along with ring gap and other specifications related to building that engines, including torque tables....--*BB

Hi Derek any luck on this as I am also considering rebuild my engine as the big ends went found a crankshaft and bearing but no torque specs ???
checked on automata and it says don't not dismantle the lower part of engine ?
when I spoke to fords they only sell a short block funny that

If the knocking is from the bottom of the engine, it may be the big end bearings have worn.
Replace them or not? Difficult question.

Replacing the big end (crankshaft/piston rod) bearings may stop the knocking/rumble noise. It depends on the crankshaft..

If the crankshaft has worn oval on its journals, fitting new bearings is unlikely to achieve anything as the bearings may break up due to the oval of the crankshaft. Removing the crankshaft and checking the journals for ovality/regrinding if necessary isn't a 5 minute job.

You say you have good oil pressure. That's a positive.

Personally, in your situation, I would try an engine oil additive that's designed to eliminate knock provided the main bearings haven't worn down to base metal. It's the cheapest option.

Failing that - and again, personally - I would remove the oil pan and fit new big end bearings in the hope that it would work.

The next step, if that doesn't work - would be to remove the crankshaft and have it reground and fit oversize bearings. Or get a 2nd hand engine...

You say the car was given to you for free .. you have nothing to lose. Try an additive first.. molyslip/molybdenum or whatever...

Good luck ...

what you are seeing are under sizes for bearings available for when the crankshaft is ground
you have to measure the journals with a micrometer to see it it is standard size or has been ground
or if you are just putting new bearings in during a quick engine rebuild then the bearing size will be stamped on the back of the shell
it will be either std or the .010" etc and you need the bearings with that size on them
anything else but std on a std crank journal will jam the shaft up--or .010" means that the crank has been ground .010" and needs bearings of that size
conversely if you put std shells on a .030" ground shaft , the bearings will flog out and oil pressure will be low to non existant

These torque value questions are strange to me. I would never do major engine work without first buying a shop manual, as I find so many helpful tips and tricks plus all the needed specifications and torque values. Just saying...

Hi there
Big end bearings are set when you get them as they are set to the crankshaft grinding so you buy bearings with the crankshaft OR stamped on the bearing shell is the o/s [like 020u/s or 020 o/s
but if the crankshaft is worn at all then dont put any bearings on it untill its been ground.

Sounds like you have the wrong bearings. You need to order the same size you took out.

v6 have 4 main bearing sets and 6 big end bearing sets
v8 have 5 main bearing sets and 8 bigend sets
5 cylinder inline will have 6 main bearing sets and 5 big end set
It appears that some where you are short a set of bearings Check that the rebuild kit is for your engine

Not good news here. I think you have a failed con-rod big-end bearing. Repair usually involves taking out the engine, replacing or regrinding the crankshaft, and replacing all the bottom end bearings.
You may be best off obtaining and fitting a reconditioned or plain second hand engine.
Compare the cost of this with a newer second-hand car.

I have a 1997 Rodeo with the V6 3.2L engine. The crankshaft main bearing caps are torqued to 29(lb-ft).

The crankshaft pully is torqued to 123 (lb-ft).