Check engine light and air conditioning

I Think I Can,
You Might Be Blending Hot Air With A/C Cold Air And Being 100Deg Outside, Your Getting
Really Warm/Hot Air Inside,
Your System Is Charged w/Freon, The A/C Compressor Is On/Engaged,
There Are 2-Aluminum Tubes Comming From The Compressor, [In & Out Pressure]
1 Tube Will Goto The Front Condensor, Infront Of The Raidator,
The OTHER Tube Comming Out Of The Condensor Will Goto A Dryer,
[Aluminum Looking Cylinder] Bigger Aluminum Tube[s]
The DRYER Will Then Feed Freon To Your Evap-Coil Inside Your Car [Cool-Air],

OK, The Dryer Tube's, 1 Of Them Should Be Cool/Cold, Locate That Tube, A Thermometer
wrapped w/Alum-Foil Around This Tube,
A/C ON, [A/C Compressor Engaged]
If You See The Temp Is Around 50-55 Degree's Or Lower, You Have Cold Air,
If Not, Above That, Low Freon, Or A restriction In The System. [Comes Later]
You Have Cold Air, You Have Warm/Hot Air Inside Car/Vents?
You Are Blending Hot Air w/Cold A/C Air, Problem Is With Heater-A/C Blend Box
Under Dash. There Are 2 Seperate Coils Under The Dash,
1 For Winter/Heat, Other [Evaporator Coil] For A/C, There Is a Diverter/Flapper door
That, For A/C, Closes Off The Heater Coil, Or It Should, To Prevent Engine Hot Water/Heat
From Blending w/ Cold A/C Air.
Most Are Controlled By A Diaphram, Vaccum Controlled From The Heater-A/C Controller
On The Dash.
If You Can Select From Defrost Vent To Dash and Floor Vents, Most Likely you Have
a Bad Diaphram That Controls The Heat-A/C Flapper Valve.
Most Time's You Can Open/Remove The Glove Box And See It,
A Temp Fix, For Cold Air, Would Be Remove The Vaccum Line From That Diaphram,
And Plug It, Pull The Metal Rod Back On The Diaphram with a Needle Nose Pliers,
If you Get Cold Air, Take a Ty-Wrap, Around The Shaft, Secure It, To Keep The
Vent In The Cold Air Position.
Then You Will Have To Get A New Diaphram Installed, Most Time's, Can Be Done
Through The Glove Box Opening.

Now About The Restriction In A System,
You Will Need A Set Of A/C Gauges, Car-Off, A/C Off, Connect Gauges.
IMPORTANT: The Gauges Before Connecting Should Show Pressure In Them [Freon]
Either The Gauges Have Freon In Them Or They Are In A Vaccum.
Otherwise They Have Air In Them, Air w/Freon=BAD Things.
OK, Gauges Show Pressure, Gauges Not Connected To Anything,
Open Up Both Knob's, Blue [Low-Side], Red [High-Side]
Gauges Needles will Move/Equal Out pressure,
BOTH Gauges Should Read Same Pressure, If Not, Quick Fix, Remove Gauge Glass
Covers, Need Little Screwdriver, If Gauges Off By ie: 4 psig,
Adjsut Low-Side [Blue] By 2psig and other, by 2psig, [Split The Difference]
So Now Both Gauges Read IDENTICAL Pressure.
Close Both Valves, Blue & Red
Connect Gauges To Car, Car=Off, A-C=Off
You Will See Pressure On Both Gauges,
Low Side Shuld Be Around 75-95psig, Depending on Outside Temp, If Around 60 or less
need freon.
OK, BOTH Gauges Should Show SAME Pressure reading,
If There Is MORE Than a 4psig Difference Between Them,
There Is A restriction In The System,
a Plugged "Orfice Tube" [Filter] Part Cost $3.00, Servicing The Filter, Alot More.
Restriction Causing Might Be , Moisture/Air in System [Improper Vaccum On System During Last Repairs], Compressor Breaking Down [Metal, Black Goo Bul-up]

Hope You Get Some Cold Air Soon.