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stephen elliott Posted on Jun 03, 2014
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Fuse location for T4 boost pressure regulator

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DJ CRO

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  • Expert 181 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 03, 2014
DJ CRO
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Joined: Feb 10, 2014
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Hello. You should look in the engine campartment to look for the first fuse panel and it should be close to the battery area. Also look into the owners manuel to be sure. Good Luck.

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1answer

How does vaccumn affect the fuel pressure regalator

If you have a vacuum operated fuel pressure regulator, then it's totally controlled by engine vacuum. Stomp on the gas pedal, vacuum drops and regulator boosts fuel rail pressure.
0helpful
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Have 07 VW crafter 2.5 litre TDI, loses power goes into limp mode. Scan showed boost pressure regulator/ solenoid, replaced it and srill does the same thing and another scan shows the same thing. Help

I think you need to diagnose the system that controls that boost regulator, that is where the problem is, it could be the PCM (powertrain control module) or the wiring to the part.
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Subaru legacy boost

It sounds like a lack of fuel to the injectors. check the fuel manifold pressure and the regulator. run fault codes to check for faulty sensors.
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Locate fuel volume regulator 1999 honda civic

EFI fuel pressure regulators come in various shapes and sizes but their purpose is the same- to hold the fuel pressure at a certain differential above the intake manifold pressure. The inner mechanism usually consists of a sealed diaphram chamber, a spring, a diaphram, bypass valve and a manifold pressure reference port. The valve is connected to the diaphram and the spring pushes against the diaphram from the manifold pressure side. The spring pressure determines the static fuel pressure. If there is vacuum on the port, say at idle, this reduces the effective spring pressure acting on the diaphram and reduces the fuel pressure under vacuum conditions. If there is pressure on the port, such as under boost, this effectively increases the spring pressure, thus fuel pressure.

Most OE regulators use a one to one ratio. At one psi of boost, it would add one psi of fuel pressure. This way there is always a constant pressure differential across the fuel injector. Most regulators have a static pressure of between 38 and 44 psi. The fuel pump always puts out an excess of fuel volume. The regulator controls the pressure in the fuel rail by bypassing any fuel not used by the engine back to the fuel tank once the control pressure is met. At idle, perhaps 95% of the fuel delivered to the fuel rail is returned to the tank. At full power, perhaps 5% to 50% of the fuel delivered is returned back to the tank. Fuel is generally routed from the pump to one end of the fuel rail which feeds the injectors. The regulator is usually mounted on the opposite end of the rail. This arrangement allows any hot fuel in the rail to be immediately purged back to the tank after a hot start to reduce vapor lock and fuel boiling. A similar arrangement should be used if you are fabricating your own fuel system.
fuel%20pressure1.jpg

Rising Rate Regulators Some aftermarket companies produce fuel pressure regulators which have a ratio of higher than one to one. These are intended for use mainly on engines which were not factoryturbocharged. Because the fuel injection system was never designed or mapped for the increased levels of airflow, fuel flow and manifold pressure, these regulators attempt to supply increased fuel under boost by vastly increasing fuel pressure. This is a bad idea for several reasons:

1. Fuel delivery varies as the square of the fuel pressure so you need 4 times the pressure to double the flow, say 160 psi in most cases.

2. The fuel injectors, hoses and fuel pumps were never designed to operate at this pressure. Pump life is severely reduced, injectors may not operate properly leading to a lean out condition and a component may fail causing a fuel leak and fire.

3. Fuel delivery under boost is now under the control of a mechanical device rather than the ECU so mixture control is crude at best.

The proper course is to use a system designed for turbocharged operation with appropriately sized injectors for the job. The OE regulator in most cases is well capable of controlling the pressure and because you can flow a lot of fuel through a 5/16 hole at 40 psi, they are entirely adequate up to 500 hp in most cases. There is no need to install larger fuel lines or massive regulators for most applications. Most aftermarket regulators are not required and a waste of time and money for street applications. They might be required at extreme hp levels on race applications or those using methanol where higher fuel flow rates demand larger lines and regulator passages. The fuel pump may have to be upgraded if the power levels are increased substantially over stock however.
fuel%20pressure2.jpgfuel%20pressure%203.jpg

2helpful
1answer

What parts do i need to turbocharge a 93 subaru impreza 1.8L

T3/T4 Turbo
Lubrication Kit "oil pump and lines"
Turbo Bracket
Intercooler
Intercooler Brackets
Aluminum Intercooler Piping
Silicone Couplings
T-bolt Clamps
Type RS Blow-off Valve
Stainless Steel Headers
Stainless Steel Downpipe
Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator
Auto-meter Boost Gauge
Vacuum Harnesses
Cone Style Air Filter
PVC Filter

And to be able to Dyno Tune the engine for the extra boost. Nothing more then 8 PSI with out replacing the Pistons.

Might of forgot something but this are the major things needed.
9helpful
2answers

Boost(?) problem audi tt

It is probably either the N75 valve(Diverter Valve) or the wastegate actuator. Usually a significant boost leak will set a DTC, still check all hoses and clamps.

A bad wastegate actuator or flap would cause no boost but not necessarily the air-sound.

____________________________________________
Testing N75

Air Bypass Valve: Testing and Inspection
With Generic Scan Tool
Wastegate Bypass Regulator Valve, Checking
Recommended special tools and equipment e.g.:
- VAG1526 multimeter or VAG1715 multimeter
- VAG1594 connector test kit
Test sequence
- Switch ignition off.
- Disconnect connector at solenoid valve for boost pressure regulation.
517f5c6.jpg - Measure resistance between terminals of valve.
Specified value: 25...35 Ohm
If specified value is not obtained:
- Replace Wastegate Bypass Regulator Valve -N75-.

________________________________________________

Testing N249

Exhaust Bypass Valve: Testing and Inspection
With Generic Scan Tool
Recirculating Valve For Turbocharger, Checking
NOTE:
Valve opens between connection to intake manifold and connection to deceleration shut-off valve with no voltage. Connection to vacuum
reservoir is closed.
Test sequence
- Switch ignition off.
- Disconnect connector from Recirculating valve for turbocharger -N249-.

9dfbfb9.jpg - Measure resistance between terminals of valve.
Specified value: 27...30 Ohm
If specified value is not obtained:
- Replace Recirculating valve for turbocharger -N249-.
If specified values are obtained:
- Connect test box to control module wiring harness, connect test box for wiring test.

1a741bd.jpg - Check wire between test box socket 105+2-pin connector terminal 2 for open circuit according to wiring diagram.
Wire resistance: max: 1.5 Ohm
- Also check the wire for short circuit to B+ and Ground (GND).
If no malfunctions are found in wire:
- Check wire between 2-pin connector terminal 1 and the Fuel Pump (FP) Relay -J17- for open circuit according to wiring diagram.
Wire resistance: max: 1.5 Ohm
If no malfunctions are found in wires:
- Replace Engine Control Module (ECM).

____________________________________________


To test the wastegate, locate the wastegate linkage rod and verify that there is no play and that it is closed. You can apply compressed air to the actuator to see if it opens and closes. (not more than 30 psi)

___________________________________________


2bd307e.jpg
Vehicle: Vacuum and Vapor Hose Diagrams
System Diagram
Vacuum Diagram
1 From fuel tank
2 EVAP canister
- with Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Regulator Valve -N80-
3 Check-valve for EVAP canister
- Between EVAP canister and intake manifold before turbocharger Installation position (light/dark side): Arrow points in direction of flow, as
shown
4 Turbocharger
5 Pressure unit for boost pressure regulation
6 Mechanical recirculation valve
7 Brake booster
8 Check-valve
- Between brake booster and intake manifold
- Installation position (light/dark side): Arrow points in direction of flow, as shown
9 Wastegate bypass regulator valve -N75-
10 Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor -G70-
11 Air cleaner housing
12 Pressure control valve for crankshaft housing ventilation
13 Vacuum reservoir
- Bolted on at cylinder head
14 Charge air cooler
- With charge air pressure sensor -G31-
15 Fuel pressure regulator
16 Throttle valve control module -J338-
17 Intake manifold
- With Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor -G42-
18 Crankcase ventilation
19 Check-valve
- Installation position (light/dark side): Arrow points in direction of flow, as shown
20 Recirculating valve for turbocharger -N249-
- Component location Fig. 1
21 Check-valve
- Between EVAP canister and intake manifold
- Installation position (light/dark side): Arrow points in direction of flow, as shown
22 Charge air cooler

4helpful
1answer

How do you change a fuel pump regulator in a 2001 Volvo s40?

The fuel pressure regulator is located in the fuel rail, held in by a torx screw.

Release pressure from the system by cranking the car with the fuel pump fuse out, or byt depressing the relief valve on the end of the fuel rail.
Unbolt the regulator/housing assembly, unhook the vacuum hose, and remove the regulator/housing assembly.

Installation is reverse order.

If you need to replace the regulator that is located in the fuel pump, it is not serviceable. Luckily they rarely fail.
0helpful
1answer

Power loose

Make sure you have no boost leaks or vacume leaks. Any air leak is a killer bro. Try using ngk bpr73es it is one step colder plug that the stock,, that will help with the extra boost since these cars came stock with the actualality of 9psi and you might want to invest in a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator if you are going to be messing with the boost or use a fuel pressure regulator off of a 95 to 99 talon or eclipse
1helpful
1answer

Smoking Vehicle After servicing.

Ther first code ECM-6805 TURBOCHARGER (TC) CONTROL VALVE DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) INFORMATION If engine speed (RPM) is above 3500 rpm and the engine is operating at a high load, and if the boost pressure (from the boost pressure sensor) is higher than a designated value, which at maximum boost pressure is approximately 20kPa (2.9psi) above normal boost pressure, this is interpreted as a fault and diagnostic trouble code (DTC) ECM-6805 is stored. Condition reduced boost pressure Possible source * hoses between turbocharger (TC) and turbocharger (TC) control valve respectively turbocharger (TC) control valve and pressure servo are loose or are blocked/damaged * faulty turbocharger (TC) control valve * faulty boost pressure control (BPC) valve pressure servo * sticking boost pressure control (BPC) valve Condition * none ECM-6805 TURBOCHARGER (TC) CONTROL VALVE PRESSURE TOO HIGH - PERMANENT/INTERMITTENT FAULT Checking the hoses and turbocharger (TC) control valve Check that the hoses between the intake manifold, pressure regulator and turbocharger (TC) control valve are not trapped, blocked or damaged. Check the turbocharger (TC) control valve by activating it. Check the alignment of the boost pressure control (BPC) valve pressure servo and the boost pressure control (BPC) valve and that they are functioning correctly and not sticking according to See: Component Tests and General Diagnostics\Boost Pressure Regulator, Checking/Adjusting Verification Hint: After carrying out the repair, check that the fault has been remedied. * Ignition off. * Reinstall connectors, components etc. * Disconnect the VCT 2000 from the data link connector (DLC). * Test drive the car and check that high boost pressure is obtained. * Connect the VCT 2000 to the data link connector (DLC). NOTE: Do not switch off the ignition before the VCT 2000 has been connected and the boost pressure has been tested with the smart tool. Read the boost pressure fault status When the boost pressure has been tested the display should show that the diagnostic is complete. the second code Symptoms You will likely not notice any serious drivability problems, although there may be symptoms. Possible Solutions The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Then start with the cheapest, easiest repair procedures: Inspect for the following conditions: An incorrectly routed harness--Inspect the harness of the MAF sensor in order to verify that it is not routed too close to the following components: - The secondary ignition wires or coils - Any solenoids - Any relays - Any motors A low minimum air rate through the sensor bore may cause this DTC to set at idle or during deceleration. Inspect for any vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF sensor. A wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration from a stop should cause the MAF sensor g/s display on the scan tool to increase rapidly. This increase should be from 6-12 g/s at idle to 230 g/s or more at the time of the 1-2 shift. If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction system or the exhaust system. The barometric pressure (BARO) that is used in order to calculate the predicted MAF value is initially based on the MAP sensor at key ON. When the engine is running the MAP sensor value is continually updated near WOT. A skewed MAP sensor will cause the calculated MAF value to be inaccurate. The value shown for the MAP sensor display varies with the altitude. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, 103 kPa is the approximate value near sea level. This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters (1,000 feet) of altitude. A high resistance on the ground circuit of the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set. Any loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set. the third code O2 sensor failure may not be displayed appropriatly
0helpful
1answer

2006 9-3ss 2.0T petrol, runs OK but not as it should. Turbo seems to spool up OK but when coming off throttle you dont have that crisp dumping sound as it did. Also travelling at speed (160km/h)and you...

There may be a loose or split intake (Boost) hose.
You may need to have boost pressure checked.
The transmission kicking down may also be caused by low boost pressure as the transmission receives boost pressure, to regulate shift pattern.
Hope this helps.
Regards MMP
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