I repaired the brake line going to the rear brakes and refilled master cylinder with fluid. Dashboard brake light is now on all the time and brakes are working fine. Why is this light staying on?
It's not unusual for someone to install the calipers on the wrong side of the car, switched. They mount just fine but upside down where the bleeder is on the bottom. In this case there will still be air trapped in the upper part of the caliper resulting in spongy brakes. The bleeder is supposed to be on top of the caliper.
Another reason brakes can be spongy is if the caliper is jammed in place resulting in one pad being contacted likely.
Beyond that, bleed the furthest from the master cylinder first, usually right rear in left hand drive, then next closer, usually left rear, then right front, then left front, closest to master cylinder. This is done to relieve trapped bubbles in the line.
This can also make the brake and ABS lights go out.
Good luck!
Your post gives the year of the truck as a 1993 and 1985...
The light on the dash may be your parking brake.
SOURCE: Ford Bronco II spongy brake pedal
if the booster is bad the pedal would be hard sounds like the e-brake is stuck take off the drums and make sure the arms are all the way back then did you adjust the rear brakes after changing the shoes
SOURCE: rear lights and dashboard lights not working.
under your dash is a fuse box and with there is a lable on the cover that directs you to the right fuse that governs the dash and tail lights
SOURCE: Left rear brake light stopped working but bulb and fuses are OK.
These are Dual Function Bulbs. They control the Parking Lights and the Brake Lights. This Bulb is Burnt out on the Brake Coil inside the Bulb. I have actually seen Bulbs that were Bad But you could not Tell by jast looking at them. It should be fine with a New Bulb. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!
SOURCE: Spongy brakes after bleeding them 2 times. Should I try to bleed the master cylinder or replace it?
Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!
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