What happens when there are Converter problems?

Common reasons for this to happen:

• Malfunctioning transmission: In a car with an automatic transmission, the torque converter takes the place of the manual clutch and is responsible for transmitting power. If the torque converter is broken, or if there is a low fluid level in the transmission, the converter will not do its job, and the car will be unable to maintain power at low speeds, which causes the engine to shut off. A defective TCS or torque converter solenoid can also cause this issue.
• Low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors, or broken fuel pump: The fuel pump is responsible for transferring fuel from the tank to the engine. A malfunctioning fuel pump can result in low fuel pressure, which means that there is an inconsistent stream of fuel to the engine. At high speeds this doesn't matter as much, but at low speeds a temporary pause in the fuel stream is enough to kill the engine. The fuel injectors are responsible for spraying a measured amount of fuel that is ignited by the spark plugs at the proper time. Injectors can become clogged or dirty over time resulting in erratic spray or no spray at all.
• Bad oxygen sensor or mass flow sensor: The oxygen sensors and mass flow sensor determine how much oxygen is entering the fuel stream, and helps the vehicle adjust the air-to-fuel ratio. If there is too much or too little oxygen, your vehicle will not have optimal power. Just like with low fuel pressure, the car will continue to operate at driving speeds, but this suboptimal power won't be able to fuel the vehicle as it slows down.
• Loose or corroded wires in wiring harness: An inconsistently firing ignition will result in an easily stalled engine. If the wires don't have consistent, constant, and reliable connection with the ignition circuit, the vehicle can lose voltage quickly, and it won't have the power it needs to keep running as you slow down.
• Faulty idle air control actuator: The idle air control actuator controls the engines RPMs when it is idling. This actuator receives information from the electronic control unit (ECU) so it knows at what RPM to keep the engine for a smooth and safe idle. When the actuator malfunctions, the engine gets no signal for idling speed and stops working.
• Clogged or restricted EGR Valve: If your EGR valve is clogged, dirty, or defective it can cause your car to stall, idle erratically, or sputter, depending on whether it is stuck open or closed.

accord stalling on every stop. (1/2) - EricTheCarGuy ...

www.ericthecarguy.com/.../8.../46884-accord-stalling-on-every-stop

The car runs good but stalls every time i come to a stop. ... a stop then it diesagain.only on the stops does the idle drop very low to the point of stalling.what ... only when I start slowing down and come to a complete stop RPM's go down and the cardies. ... The popular Honda Civic and Accord vehicles share many powertrain ...

1998 Honda Accord loses rpm/ stalls coming to a stop ...

honda-tech.com/honda-accord.../1998-honda-accord-loses-rpm-stalls-co...

Jan 10, 2013 - I just bought a 1998 4 cyl 2.3 L Honda Accord two days ago. ... 1998Honda Accord loses rpm/ stalls coming to a stop. .... Is clockwise high idle or low idle? all in all i probable rotated counterclockwide 1.5 or 2 turns. maybe this ...

1999 Accord, 130k+, stalls when slowing to a stop - Honda Accord ...

www.hondaaccordforum.com > ... > General > General Tech Help

Mar 10, 2010 - My fiancee's '99 Accord EX Coupe 4-cylinder automatic, with 130,000+ miles, has recently (in .... No low RPM & feeling like it's GOING TO stall.

99 Honda Accord - Strange Stalling Issues! HELP!

https://www.2carpros.com/.../1999-honda-accord-99-strange-stalling-issu...

My 1999 Honda Accord is having sporadic stalling problems. I've noticed a pattern. Itstalls while going slow speeds and stop and go traffic, etc. The engine just ...

Stalling or Low Engine Idle Speed Due to Dirty ... - Repair

The stall in a converter is when the internal parts of the converter lock and has the same rpm,s as the engine. Transferred to the transmission input shaft. Factory is 1000 to 1500 rpm stall. Put another way. You have a 1500 stall converter, when you floor the gas pedal and the rpm,s go to 1500 real fast, the rear tires will spin faster than the vehicle is going. Don't put a larger stall in a vehicle that isn't built to take the torque. Ie.. Upgraded engine, transmission and rear differential. Some thing will break.

The cherry red is probably due to raw gasoline being burned in the converter. Since the engine isn't running right (and I'm surprised you didn't say the Check Engine light was on), there seems to be some kind of valve timing issue or perhaps a burnt valve that is causing at least one cylinder to not fire and thus expel the fuel/air mixture into the exhaust stream. This can be confirmed with a compression check of the cylinders. If they are all low, then there is a problem with valve timing, possible a jumped belt/chain. If only one cylinder is low, then a burnt or broken valve is more likely.

The first thing that comes to my mind is "45 MPH"... and let me explain why.....

Your engine you said is running GREAT so a MPH is not going to effect the running of the Car but what happens @ 45 MPH you ask?

Your Torque Converter goes into Lock up.... If the Torque Converter is slipping in and out of lock up, you are going to have an irregular pulsating of the engine playing catch up.

you need to do this, try and drive the vehicle (you did not say what kind of vehicle it is), and drive it without the OVERDRIVE On...

So drive it and see if it is RPM RELATED. If there is no CHUG and you can go all the way to 55-60 without issue, Slow down below 45 and put the OD IN and accellerate and see what happens..

Is the Problem SPEED RELATED? Is it RPM Related?

If it does not happen with it OUT of OD, then what you probably have is a Torque Converter Failing...

I hope this helps

I don't envy that. By now that converter is like welded solid to the exhaust from all the heat and 20 plus years of rust and corrosion.

Simple enough job, just unbolt it front and back and take it off, right? When bolts start breaking off and you have got wholly frustrated, you might consider having a shop cut it out and fit it back together with necessary extensions as needed. But see if you can get the bolts out first. Soak them overnight with penetrating oil-several applications, then tackle it. Good luck.

It can be issue with IAC( idle air control valve) causing the problem.

There are many other possibilities causing these idle issues. Engine idles rough.

There are few help links with solutions to troubleshoot such idle issues.

I suggest you refer the link below and follow its troubleshooting details:------

Click the link below:-----

Ford Expedition IAC valve replacing

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/12/ford-expedition-iac-valve-replacing.html

Bad miss at idle?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/bad-miss-at-idle.html

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Stumbling and stalling at idle after engine rebuild?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/03/stumbling-and-stalling-at-idle-after.html

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1999 Ford F-150 Idles rough and quits when gas pedal is pressed less?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/01/1999-ford-f-150-idles-rough-and-quits.html

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Engine stumbles coming off idle when warm?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/engine-stumbles-coming-off-idle-when.html

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Erratic idle on car?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/erratic-idle-on-car.html

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Cold start problem and vehicle shudder around 2500 to 3500 rpms

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/10/cold-start-problem-and-vehicle-shudder.html

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Low idle when cold out side?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/low-idle-when-cold-out-side.html

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GMC Sonoma Stalls and idles low

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/10/gmc-sonoma-stalls-and-idles-low.html

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GMC Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Replacing?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/gmc-idle-air-control-iac-valve.html

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1996 Camry intermittent engine failure while idle?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/10/1996-camry-intermittent-engine-failure.html

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Engine quits at idle?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/10/engine-quits-at-idle.html

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Car overheats and Air blows hot at idle?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-overheats-and-air-blows-hot-at-idle.html

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High Idle Problem

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/10/high-idle-problem.html

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While stop engine idles like cylinder missing?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2012/01/while-stop-engine-idles-like-cylinder.html

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Idle flair is noticed on car? Rough idle? car will not idle? Erratic idle speed?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/idle-flair-is-noticed-on-car-rough-idle.html

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High rpm in neutral? Inconsistant high RPM in neutral?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/high-rpm-in-neutral-inconsistant-high.html

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Vehicle stumbling at idle and shows code 54?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/03/vehicle-stumbling-at-idle-and-shows.html

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Rough idle, staling and Erratic shifting?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/03/rough-idlestaling-and-erratic-shifting.html

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While stop engine idles like cylinder missing?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2012/01/while-stop-engine-idles-like-cylinder.html

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These details will help.

Thanks.

Sounds like bad fuel, clogged/blocked fuel filter, air filter maint. of the vehicle needed (may need tune up) or internal engine problems. You have to start with the basics. How many miles, how well was the vehicle maintained etc. Cars usually don't just break with no notice.

with ignition ON, push the OFF and WARM buttons togethend release. on your A/C control panel. Hold for 5 sec and stored codes should show. Codes should reflect upon problem you are experienceing. Hope this helps.

Hello;
First we need to ascertain the problem. When the vehicle stalls, does it start up immediately? Does it blow smoke out the exhaust on restart? Before it stalls, does it chug and sputter or act like you turned the key off? ALso, which engine and transmission have yoou in this truck?
Thanks;
Rich
RPM Northwest