ECU problem:S!? My civic 2002 exi 1.5 litres is acting very wierd since the engine was flooded with water. the mechanic seemd to have repaired it but it doesnt rev higher than 4000 rpm and the engine just stalls VERY often especially if the A/Cs on. the mechanic says the ECU chip is messd up?:S. is dat the case here and can i perhaps remap this ECU to it wrks prprly?

Hi there I am Brandon I am a mechanical n electrical engineering technical technician and 4 generation mechanic I am the man that regular mechanics call when they cant find out the problem the pro... don't have any thing do with the ecu you have a throttle plate sticking and it is been left open that is making it act up


thank you n God bless

6th post wins, with Injector.
the injector can fail for these reasons.
the problem in car lingo, is FLOODING.
and after doing all that did it run? (my other shoe drops)!

1: the 0-rings bad, on side.
2: the injector is bad, it leaks.
3: the ECU injector drive line is failing. (bad ECU)
4: loss of spark always ends in flooding.
5: ECT sensor bad, sending water temp reading to -40C Siberian.
did you get the FLASH codes from the CEL lamp yet, with the
diagnostic jumper , inserted?
6: bad need of tune up, air filter clogged, spark plugs long ago, dead.
do a tuneup every 10 years, or 60k miles and win..
7: Cam belt slipped, low compression for any reasons. again, the 60k mile tune up wins.

when you crank the engine over, with the throttle at wide open throttle
this ACT, cuts all injections. cranking, this covered in the operators
manual, for UN-Flooding all gas engines. and all EFI engines.
and all Suzuki's' (or Geos)

on old dogs like this, i do compression first.
saving a fortune in parts , time and labor, if bad.
do it WOT, wide open throttle.

cheers !

expensive guessing there ,wow !

why not find out why ,by using diagnosis, its far cheaper, i promise.
engine stalls:
A: can you save the stall>? with a fast right foot action????
yes, then its not 12vdc power lost to EFI system.
no, then it must be lost spark or lost fueling or flooding.
did you do the full 60k mile tune up yet? and the 90k? ever interval?
your mech. can't find this? is that what you are asking.???

stalls list, near impossible to answer not knowing, test A: above !
but here goes.
1: lost 12vdc power, EFI dies. engine dies. volt meter saves day.
2: lost spark, (cant save stall, test A, for this or lost 12vdc)
3: lost fuel pressure , stall can be proven with using test fuel at stall point. (spray fuel into intake) below 30PSI fuel, on all cars is bad.
4; flooding, from too much fuel pressure, say over 60psi, causes flooding, leaking injectors, so an injector leak down and balance test shown in the FSM.
See soaking wet spark plug tips (free easy check)??? flooding.
fast foot easy prevent stall, ? yes, ISC stuck closed. clean it
harder fast foot save is EGR stuck open. clean it.
impossible fast foot save is , #1,2,3 above.

all above can be tested easy and with cheap tools.
the engine runs by order. "classic list"
do the tune up.
1: 12vdc to EFI ,key on, all the time.
2: engine compression at spec, or 150psi. 90k timing belt ignored?
3: good spark and timed right. (strobe light test)
4: good fueling (not lost , or flooding)
5: EGR not stuck open, ISC not stuck closed.

this gets most stalls.
if fuel pressure is at bad shunt levels, +60psi , due to the fuelpressue
regulators stuck closed. (in side tank it is so is fuel filter.)
the engine will flood , i check fuel pressure. way before any ECU swaps. infact i check all ECU inputs first. and fuel pressure must be in spec range too.
good luck.

Try to check the emission components. Check also the MAF and the throttle position sensor.

The engine has not shrunk. Your pistons have been seized due to overheating. There is a fix. You need a new or rebuilt engine. Sorry there is no other fix.

please state what engine this vehicle has is it the europeon 16v engine made by opel in germany by any chance of around 2 litre

It is possible that she either sucked water in to the intake causing your MAF (Mass air flow sensor) to short. Or worst case vapor locked the engine. Hope for MAF. Can you relay some of the symptoms that you are having as in will the engine even turn over? Does it act like it wants to start? It is possible that she shorted the entire system out which could include the ECU.

Weakening fuel pump or clocked fuel filter(s)

TAKE IT TO A GOOD MECHANIC! PROBABLY A SHIFT MODULE ON YOUR TRANSMISSION. GOOD LUCK!

I had a similar problem with my 1995 Sonata... turns out, the coolant temperature sensor had gone bad and was telling the ECU (Engine Control Unit) that the engine coolant temperature was at minus (-) 40 degrees. The ECU then INCREASED the fuel to air ratio and the engine wouldn't start because the ACTUAL temperature was like 195 degrees F. - same as flooding the engine with excess fuel. There's also a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor which could be malfunctioning (telling the ECU that LESS air is coming in than ACTUALLY is .. OR the REVERSE). It seems to me your hyundai mechanic (supposidly TECHNICIAN) isn't a technician/mechanic at all.... sorry,, forgive me. I'm a 'PLATINUM' certified Hyundai Tech... The diagnostic procedure for solving your problem is exact and precise... he/she doesn't know what he/she is doing. Oh, there's also a possibility the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) may be contributing to the problem. The 30 mins to 1 hr delay points to the coolant temp sensor.