I have a Nissan Almera from 1999 N15. For a couple of months ago a workshop has welded on the car, and after that i have electric problems. First problem was that many fuses were blown, that was easily replaced. Second problem appaers about 1 month later, no charging on battery which seems to be the alternator, but the instrument, engines alarm end tachometers is after one more day not working. The engine can start and run but all the instrument is dead. Yesterday i have got a new alternator and replaced it, and was hoping that a higher voltage on the battery would solve the problem. But no, there is still only 12.1 volt from the new alternator and all engine related lamps and tachometer is still dead. I checked the ignition relay and some other relays and they are working ok. Is the engine control unit broken? Is there a voltage regulator in the engine control unit that regulates the charging from alternator? Or how is the charging regulated? Do i need a new control unit? I hope for some good advice, I live in Greenland and there is not any good workshop for fixing difficults like this, and i usallye buy spareparts from ebay my self. Rene
So, you did not have the welding done with gas, but with electric arc.
Anytime a person welds on a car with anything electric, the car's owner must disconnect ALL things electrical, or everything may be toasted, as yours is.
The alternator is a self-contained unit, and it either works or doesn't.
The alternator has the voltage regulator inside as a part of it.
I believe you may be needing an ECU, which is the brain of the car, however, because of the damage caused by an uninformed person, your car may never be fixed, because some wires may have shorted out (melted together) inside on of the wire harnesses that are all over your car. I think the best you can hope for is that it runs, and the alternator charges the battery as needed. I think the alternator is supposed to put out about 13.1 volts.
If you look up an ECU on e-bay, you will notice there are repair services who can repair your ECU. I have used them several times, and this has worked well for me.
Sorry.
Be blessed.
Problem is solved:) So far..
I have found that the alternator needed 12 volts potentiale on the connection marked "L" That is from the warning lamp in the dashboard. And when i took my test lamp and put 12 V on L, then the alternator worked fine.
After that i started searching the dashboard and found a broken fuse connection for the dashboard called "meters" in the fusebox. So what has happen? The overcurrent from the welding has damaged the diodes in the alternator. After a while tha alternator braks down, and causing af small short circuit thats effects the fuse for the "meters" the fude was not blown, but burned on the on leg. After putting in a new fuse same size (10Amp) then i started on for 20 seconds everything was fine, but then the fuse blow, and i try again with a 20amp, it blow straight away. Then i checked for shortcircuit but coukd not find any. I had then one option left and that was to put a wire as a fuse and see if something starts to smoke og burn:( I put the wire on, and started the engine, and then after a while i replaced the wire with a 20 amp fuse, and now it is working. The 20 amp fuse has not blown since. It is a bit funny, but so it is with old cars:) For now its working and i just hope for no more electrical problems..
×
SOURCE: volvo V70 electrical problem
had the same problem with an s80 this week- no warning lights nothing. was the regulator. when you have it fixed cancel all the trouble codes as when voltage is low everything registrs low signal input and makes the car go into get me home mode.
I don't have a diagram for a 91, but a 95 model has three fuses - the big one ( 100amp or more) a 10amp fuse for the charge light and a 7.5amp for the third circuit. There is no relay in the circuit.
The normal voltage should be 12-12.5 with the engine off and 14.5 with the engine running at 1500 RPM.
SOURCE: Where is voltage regulator
You don't say what kind of welding you had done or where but I can tell you that if it was a MIG welder or an ARC welder and they didn't take the appropriate precautions this could very well messed your car up and ruined the ECU.Your alternator should be charging from 13.2 to 14 volts.Check the ground on the battery to make sure you have a good circuit. The fact that the car will start is a good thing.I would go looking for a bad connection or wire controlling the gauges.The voltage regulator is in the alternator,it controls volts output. I'm jumping around here a bit but I empathize with you in a big way.Go back and double check everything.There must be a fuse to the instrument cluster,or perhaps a bad wire. good luck
446 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×