I replaced the passengers side front fender, While popping out the plastic "snap buttons" that hold the wheel well liner in place (with a hammer and chisel) t, the windshield wipers came on.I disconnected the battery and now I can not start the car or get it out of "park" Every error you could think of is scrolling across the dash board.. Headlights are strong, turn signals and guages work . I just read that the computer is under the passengers floorboard.. Should I check there and how do I access it ? This is my Bosses car and I dont want to make it worse.. Thanks.... Ken e-mail : [email protected]

Even if you popped the dent out, the liner may not fit back on tightly. They are usually held by plastic clips or plastic pins or even plastic screws that easily get distorted, or the hole they are held with gets enlarged from tearing. You could keep the liner up with a couple of machine screws drilled into strategic places....or, you could just remove the liner-it's not a safety issue-it just helps keep mud and dirt from building up in the wheel wells and fender corners. To remove it, first take the wheel off. Then you can see how it is held on Pull it off and throw it away.
If you pop the dent out and fender looks pretty good, and the liner appears it can be re-used with just a little help, all the better.
It;s up to you.

The bumper shouldn't be in the way. Usually the liner is attached only inside the wheel well. You may have to pull the tire off to make it easier. Plastic clips or pins usually hold the liner in place, or it may have screws. Go by the opposite side, if any part of your old liner is missing attachers or pieces.

same as this...
"you can either start by taking the left wheel off or not, taking it off will assist you in removing the wheel-well-liner. remove the wheel-well-liner, remove the couple screw that screw the front bumper in the the fender, then remove the bolts holding the bumper onto the actual body of the car. lastly, as you pull the fender off, be careful of the side marker blinker light remove that as you pull the fender off. any questions? please rate!"

You have to remove the air filter box to expose the straps that hold the battery in place. Then raise the vehicle safely, remove the passenger-side front wheel, and unscrew the plastic lining in the fender.
Once the liner is moved, the battery is exposed... then you can undo the cables and pull the battery out.
Reverse for installation. Goodluck

Bi-Xenons - 6000K D1S
High Beams - Osram Nightbreakers H7
Fogs - PIAA H11 Yellow Ion
Cornering Lights - Osram Nightbreakers H3
Front Park Lights - High-Powered LEDs with built-in resistors
Front Signal Lights - Sylvania Silverstar 7507A ST (Silver Bluish but lights up Amber)
Front Sidemarkers - InviSilver W5W (Silver but lights up Amber)
Rear Signal Lights - P21W Stealth Bulbs (Silver but lights up Amber)
Reverse Lights - Sylvania Silverstar 7506ST or Error-Free LEDs
License Plate Lights - C5W Error-Free High-Powered LEDs

Turn the engine off and approach the side of the porsch with the burn-out side-marker light. If you are replacing both, start at either side; the replacement procedure is the same.

2 Remove the screws from the plastic fender liner. Peel back the liner to access the area behind the fender.

3 Reach your hand inside to gain access to the side-marker light's backing. Push the backing forward to release the side-marker lens; it's held in place by small clips.

4 Grab the lens on the outer side and turn it over to access the back. Gently turn the bulb to release it from the plastic lens.

5 Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the electrical socket. Insert a new bulb, but do not touch the glass part of the bulb with your hand.

6 Push the new bulb into the side-marker lens. Turn it clockwise to install it. Push the side-marker lens back into place. Apply gentle pressure to the lens to pop it back into its mount.

7 Replace the screws along the edge of the fender liner.

It is located under the passenger side front fender. You have to remove the "wheel well" liner to access the pump. It is not a costly item and is carried by NAPA. Getting to it is the work. Jack the car up on right front side---remove wheel and then remove wheel well liner . It involves some phillips head screws along with some plastic fasteners.

Drivers side fender well. Jack up the car and remove the front tire. There's a section of the fender liner with a big picture of a battery on it. You can remove that part of the fender liner via some thumb twist screws and get to the battery.

Its easier if you remove the left front tire. In front of the wheel well, you will see a plastic cover held in place with several clips that can be removed by turning the clips 1/4 turn to left. pull the plastic cover off and you will see the battery. Use 1/2 in. socket to remove hold down, and 5/16 socket to remove cables. Total time Approx. 15 minutes.

Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

Tools needed:
- Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
- 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
- #20 torx bit.
- Floor jack, optional but useful.
- Flat blade screwdriver.

Instructions for bumper removal:

1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

16) At this point all of the fasteners holding the bumper in place have been removed. The only thing left to do is to remove the two brackets "clamping" the bumper cover to the lower front edge of the front fenders. Before you do this, position some cardboard boxes, bags of packing material, six packs of paper towels, or other suitable items to protect the bumper in case it falls off the car.

17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.

the low pressure port is behind the passenger fender plastic wheel liner.
Remove the screws and pull out the liner and it's right there. Please give highest rating if this is what you need.

1. Detach the wheel arch trim panel on the passenger's side (driver's side shown).
2. Remove six bolts.

• Remove the trim panel.

Disconnect the battery terminals, remove the fuse box cover and unbolt the square coolant tank on the passenger side of the car and move it off to the side.

For the driver side headlight, turn the wheel to the passenger side and remove or just drop inner fender liner. About a dozen little plastic rivets and 2 metal screws holding on mudguard. You really don't have to unscrew the screws holding the fender liner to the bottom of the front bumper you can just pull it down to access the back of the headlight.

DO NOT disconnect any of the hoses on the coolant tank or try to remove it from the car, just put it to the side.

Now you've got room to get your hands into where they need to go. You'll notice that there is a circular plastic cover on the housing behind the low beams. These each will unscrew and pop off. Once you take these off it is a simple matter of removing and replacing the bulb.

The bulb is held in by a metal latch. It is a wire that looks like a loop off a paper clip. disconnect by just push down and inwards (toward the middle of the car) on it and it'll pop up. Pivot it up out of the way and the bulb will pull right out. (actually, they both push towards the left if you are standing in front of the car looking at the headlights)

Replace the bulb and make sure you note how the old bulb was installed as it will only go back in one way. ALSO make sure you do not touch the bulb itself as the oil from your skin will cause the bulb to have hot spots and burn out sooner.

Reverse the process for the install making sure you get the metal tabs to latch in properly and make sure you secure the circular covers back onto the headlight housing. Also make sure you securely reattach the coolant tank and put the fuse box cover back on.